Etna’s uniqueness never ceases to fascinate. Between lava slopes, extreme altitudes and ultra-centenarian sapling vineyards on characteristic terraces contained by dry lava stone walls, the volcano’s energy dominates the landscape and wine-producing scenery.
Its heroic viticulture and magnetising aspect attracts enthusiasts and winemakers the world over, inducing them to choose a way of life on a’muntagna (Etna’s local name) despite the challenging work.
The volcano features a complex mosaic of soils, slopes, altitudes and microclimates, condensed into over 130 contrade (historical sub-areas defined by particular lava formations that characterise the geology – and the wines).
The native varieties Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio are used for reds and whites; while Carricante dominates white production.
All are able to channel and express the distinctive imprint of this volcanic kaleidoscope.
It was a dimension we experienced during Etna Days this September. The event was conceived by the Etna DOC consortium to spotlight the constantly evolving path of Sicily’s first denomination.
The Etna DOC was established back in 1968 and is now on its way to becoming a DOCG in the near future.
The tastings highlighted a clear improvement in the whites due to producers increasingly channelling Carricante’s acidic and sapid character. It’s a variety that produces wines of enormous evolutionary potential. Focusing on their longevity will be a winning card in the years to come.
The subtle and complex reds are always fascinating, offering vibrant, characterful wines with a narrative of vivid gustatory tension and volcanic personality.
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(Image credit: Credit Unknown)
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