“The DC dining scene was brutal in 2025, for lots of reasons,” George Manolatos, Malabar’s general manager and longtime Knightsbridge fixture, told me during dinner. “Rosedale was a great restaurant, but, like everywhere else in DC, guests were looking for something else. With Malabar, we’re not only seeing guests come from the neighborhood but also from other parts of DC and Bethesda.”
Malabar’s menu features dishes from India’s coast
In other words, Bajaj forged a new destination, and it looks like he has another hit.
The 100-seat dining room (with an additional 30 seats for outdoor dining during the warmer months) and bar, which serves dinner and Sunday brunch, received a design refresh. New art reminiscent of India’s Malabar Coast hangs on the walls, large ferns dot the space, and warm, vibrant hues paint the walls. The noise level is moderate and conversational; instead of exposed ceilings, the design team affixed a series of wooden boxes with crossbeams to hush the room’s volume. Comfy booths, white leather chairs and unadorned tables create a vibe that rests somewhere between formal and familiar.
Geographically, India’s Malabar region lies between the Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea; it’s known as the land of spices and coconuts, attracting traders and tourists for centuries. Chef Sunderam understood the assignment. His menu is not so much an homage as a reflection of the richness and diversity of India’s culinary culture.
I’m not going to dissuade anyone from the entrees, but a parade of appetizers, paired with puffy, warm garlic naan, might feed your soul for days. Standouts at our table included crab cake (fennel, black pepper, tempered mayo) and scallops Caldine (coconut, green chili, cilantro). We also reserved hosannas for two vegetable dishes that reminded us not to try to create this at home: cauliflower Bezule, lightly fried and given a spicy kick with green chilies, mustard seeds, curry leaves and lemon juice; and palak chaat, a perfectly crispy baby spinach dish accented with yogurt, tamarind and dates.
in addition to seafood, look for an impressive selection of chicken dishes.
For the mains, Sunderam created an impressive lineup, including ginger black cod, one of his iconic dishes, salmon Malai and Mangalorean chicken curry, with tender bites of meat resting in a sauce crafted with fresh coconut, garlic, fenugreek and coriander seeds. Vegetarian and vegan dishes also shine, especially Dakshini vegetable korma with poppy seeds, cinnamon and cloves, and carrot bean poriyal with lentils, ginger, curry leaves and grated coconut.
Desserts aren’t afterthoughts at Malabar; instead, look for seven curated closers like the chocolate bebinca, which is comprised of layers of light-as-air coconut pancakes accompanied by chocolate ice cream, and saffron payasam, a sweet-and-savory commingling of rice pudding, cashews and raisins, a fitting end to a well-orchestrated game plan by one of DC’s best maestros. While Bajaj clearly needed his ace in the kitchen, he continues to prove that an exceptional dining experience is a team sport. 4465 Connecticut Ave. NW, 202.845.8301, malabar-dc.com
Dining and Cooking