It is host to a wealth of eating and drinking spots, but one has slipped the attentions of the Eat My Words spotlight, until now…
Sargasso is perched along the town’s harbour arm, and the first treat is arriving just in time for one of those glorious sunsets and the big sky and colours that attracted and inspired artist JMW Turner.
It’s easy to see why the famous painter loved visiting here so frequently and created scores of sketches, drawings and paintings of the same seascapes we see today.
And our waiter, who says he’s lived in Margate all his life, says the sunsets are as spectacular when bathing the buildings across the harbour opposite Sargasso in an orange glow as the views offered looking over the water.
The immediate vibe inside the brick-clad open kitchen is chilled with background music playing and a hubbub from the diners perched on stools at the high tables by the windows and the counter seating at the bar.
Sargasso in Margate opened in 2021
It’s a pretty small space with not too many covers, so it doesn’t feel overcrowded either.
And given the size of the cooking area, it’s probably not too much of a surprise to see a reasonably small menu.
But a vast array of choices does not always make the best restaurant. Some of the best places we’ve reviewed in this feature before have fewer options and for a good reason… quality and attention to detail.
So will the same logic stand up at Sargasso?
First up on the table is a plate of battered courgettes with Cantabrian anchovies (£15) from the specials board.
The light batter encasing the crunchy and slightly sweet vegetable is offset by the salty hit from the fish which enhances flavours of the dish so well.
The restaurant can be found on Margate harbour arm, with stunning views over the town and beach
The restaurant offers an impressive wine menu
It reminds me of a pinxos-style dish – finger food you just can’t wait to pick up and take a bite out of.
The small plates ethos of the restaurant is perfectly suited to the atmosphere – everything feels calm and relaxed.
The joy of this is that things arrive on the table when they’re ready meaning there’s a steady flow of plates hitting the table meaning you can keep grazing.
That also means it’s easier to sample a few things and share among friends and/or family, which is just such a nice way to enjoy dinner.
Next out is chickpeas with spinach and paprika (£9) which is a deep and rich cassoulet-style bowlful full of warmth and richness.
The peas have a slight bite and firmness to them but are smooth and creamy and brilliantly balanced with the earthy and smoky paprika and the spinach.
Sargasso offers counter seating and high window tables
It had such an amazing depth of flavour and was so good I would love to have the recipe (and attempt to replicate at home).
My eyes were immediately drawn to the cod dish on the menu (£23) which comes with a crab and saffron sauce and agretti.
Flaky fish is combined with a smooth, savoury and umami taste in the sauce brought out by a hit of crab at the end.
The agretti, which is similar to an often-used accompaniment to fish, samphire, brings a natural saltiness but also has an iron-like flavour that reminds me of spinach.
It’s a real delight and luxurious dish and fortunately, I’ve left some bread to soak up all the leftovers of the sauce.
We also picked the winter tomato salad (£10) which was an excellent side plate and served with a beautiful dressing with balsamic notes and sweetness really elevating the juicy tomatoes.
Sargasso really is a great place to sample several dishes, which work well shared between friends
A dish from the specials board. We had the anchovies on the side of the courgette so my girlfriend could try the veg without the fish
We want the recipe for this chickpeas, spinach and paprika stew
Our final dish was a mustard leaf salad (£6) – an ingredient I’m not familiar with but was really memorable even if it does just look like a big plate of leaves.
It offers a punchy and unmistakable mustard heat which works really well on its own and alongside the other dishes, particularly with the tomatoes.
Put a chocolate dessert on a menu and nine times out of 10, I’m going to succumb.
Sargasso’s chocolate ganache with sea salt and olive oil is an absolute must-try. Rich and velvety smooth.
It is lick-the-spoon-clean excellent, and then makes you want to get as much as you can from what’s left on the plate. If only manners and decorum were not a thing.
All the dishes deliver bold yet not overpowering or conflicting flavours, and all stand out among each other – it’s definitely a case of a small menu but delivering big on taste and utter deliciousness.
Winter tomato salad was another winning dish. So simple but so tasty
The cod, agretti, saffron and crab sauce was a great dish
I’ve been lucky enough to eat at some great places in Kent – some of which are in the Michelin Guide, which recognises the best cooking around, and some which I’m surprised have not yet made it.
Sargasso absolutely deserves its recognition. It’s also a recipient of the Guide’s Bib Gourmand accolade for “good quality, good value cooking”, that too is well-earned.
If you put this vibe and food, all while supping a crisp glass of wine, on a quayside in somewhere like Spain or Italy, it would be exactly what you’d say you’d come on holiday to savour.
The heaped pile of mustard leaf salad
The dark chocolate ganache, with sea salt and olive oil, was a perfect end to the meal
A glass of wine (or two) on a Tuesday evening? Don’t mind if I do
But yet we’re in Kent, on a Tuesday, and for that evening, it was easy to forget the troubles going on around the world right now.
Isn’t that exactly what restaurants and dining out is all about?
Out of five:
Food: Small menu but locally sourced produce, brilliantly cooked and flavours that make me want to go and sample what’s new next time ****
Drink: Nice variety of wines by the glass, carafe and bottle and some specials on the board. Cocktails and non-alcoholic options are great for dropping in for a refreshing drink ****
Décor: Calm and relaxed featuring industrial-chic exposed brickwork, wood and cosy lighting ****
Staff: Super friendly and welcoming and chatty hosts. Perfect *****
Price: For a Michelin Guide eatery, it’s not cheap but is a lovely treat and good value compared to other places of this level ***
Dining and Cooking