The Neighborhood Comes First
At DeNucci’s, that sense of generosity is anchored in something older — and arguably more Chicago — than any single dish: neighborhood loyalty. “I think Chicago has a great Italian American culture,” says Jonathan Farrer, partner and president of Ballyhoo Hospitality. “There’s been a lot of great Italian American restaurants here for a long time.” For Farrer, the appeal of red sauce is both emotional and practical. “It’s that comfort food that we all crave. It’s a cold city, so those dishes go a long way.”
But DeNucci’s isn’t trying to reinvent the canon. If anything, its appeal lies in restraint. “We certainly have some small twists here and there, but nothing crazy,” Farrer says. “We stayed tried and true and focused on giving people great hospitality, solid food, and a reasonable amount [of it].”
In a dining world that often tilts toward exclusivity, DeNucci’s was built around accessibility. “It’s a feel-good concept from a culinary standpoint,” Farrer says. “We were definitely chasing that Cheers model.” That plays out in the rhythm of the room: servers who remember your drink order, an accessible menu with dishes like spaghetti limone and scallopini, and a steady cadence of weekly specials that turn visiting into a habit, not a special occasion.
That’s all very intentional. “What more is there to love,” Farrer asks, “than a Friday night with friends, drinking great Italian table wine, eating a chicken parm and a pizza?”
Dining and Cooking