I’ll be curious to taste the new breed of claret wines when they emerge later this year, even if, like Tanner, I think they’d be better labelled by another, less common Bordeaux term which was traditionally used for the region’s dark rosés: clairet. In the meantime I’ll carry on enjoying what I think of as true claret – affordable, appetisingly fresh, crunchy, food-friendly red wines that Bordeaux does better than anywhere, such as Tanners own-label Super Claret 2019 (£16.70), the delightfully supple Château La Rose de Vitrac 2022 (£13.95, Haynes Hanson & Clark), and the endlessly drinkable Château la Gravière, Côtes de Bourg 2022 (£12.95, The Wine Society).
Dining and Cooking