Pairings: Hearty Split Pea Soup

I knew the Gigondas tasting was coming up, so when I spotted a Domaine du Gour de Chaulé at Freemans Restaurant on the Lower East Side, I ordered it, not knowing it would be in the tasting. The game on the menu provided an open invitation to the red from the Southern Rhône. But what I did not expect was how well the wine complemented my first course, a bowl of thick, mellow split pea soup. The soup’s whisper of meaty smoke and brambly fragrance of thyme clinched its rustic ties to the wine. The restaurant’s recipe is easy and copious. (The soup freezes well.) Look for split peas that have a use-by date on the package and are relatively fresh; they will cook faster and better.

Ingredients

• 1 pound slab bacon in 1/4-inch-thick slices
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 1 carrot, chopped
• 1 stalk celery, chopped
• 1 head garlic, cloves peeled and sliced thin
• Salt and black pepper
• 1 pound dried green split peas, rinsed and picked over
• 4 bay leaves
• 3 quarts chicken stock
• ½ bunch fresh thyme leaves, stripped from stems

• Nutritional Information

  • Nutritional analysis per serving (10 servings)

    470 calories; 22 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 9 grams monounsaturated fat; 3 grams polyunsaturated fat; 43 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams dietary fiber; 9 grams sugars; 24 grams protein; 38 milligrams cholesterol; 726 milligrams sodium

  Note: Nutrient information is not available for all ingredients. Amount is based on available data.
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10 to 12 servings

Preparation

1. Dice bacon into 1/4-inch cubes. Place in a heavy 6-quart pot over medium-low heat. Cook until fat is rendered and translucent. Add onion, carrot, celery and garlic. Cook until onion and garlic are soft and translucent. Season with salt and pepper.
2. Add split peas, stir to coat with fat, and add bay leaves and stock. Increase heat and bring to a boil. Reduce heat so soup simmers. Skim foam that rises to the surface for about 10 minutes, until no more appears. Add thyme leaves. Simmer uncovered about 1 hour or longer, until peas are soft and starting to fall apart.
3. Remove soup from heat. Add salt and pepper to taste. Purée soup in a food processor in several batches, short of perfect smoothness; you should be able to spoon up some texture. Reheat soup, skimming off any foam. Stir from the bottom to mix well, then ladle into bowls and serve.

2 hours