**Note – I’m reposting this from a comment I made a few weeks ago. I thought it would be useful to move to its own post.**
> *Burgundy is not for the faint of heart. It takes a lot of effort and research to know the producers, the Appellations, and to stomach the prices. Good appellations from good producers can produce lackluster wines (though rarely), but when everything comes together it has no rival.*
**First – some level setting on cost:**
* I will be mainly talking about the Cote d’Or. I have much less experience in the Cote Chalonnaise – as many of the producers who I have visited who have holdings in the Cote Chalonnaise have their domaine in the Cote d’Or.
* Most wines in Burgundy are expensive. You are looking at 30€+ for most village level wines, but range into the 1000s for Grand Crus. If this makes you uncomfortable, then perhaps a different wine region is better to visit (such as Provence). If you are only purchasing a small quantity it will only be worthwhile if you are purchasing 1er and GCs due to the cost of shipping, but I found it worthwhile to order village level and below if you are purchasing 60+ bottles.
* You should set a budget before you go, and you should think about how you will get your wines home (and at what cost) as part of that consideration (recommendations on that to follow. I probably would not considering this trip if your budget is less than 500€ and you were visiting 1 producer or it will likely be very awkward for you and the producer. If you are planning to visit multiple producers and caves or staying for multiple days – I would recommend a budget of 3000€+.
**What to expect when you visit:**
* I highly suggest doing your research to understand the differences between the different Appellations and Producers in Burgundy before you go. I recommend Clive Coates “My Favorite Burgundies,” or “The Wines of Burgundy,” [bourgogne-wines.com](https://www.bourgogne-wines.com/), and a solid understanding of the most recent vintages that will be available to you from producers, and a reference guide for past vintages for when visiting Cave (wine shops) as often you won’t have service to look this up. (Many tours expect you not to know this information, and guide you to purchase poor vintages, from underwhelming producers, or from lower appellations).
* If you plan to go wine tasting at a Producer – you are setting the expectation that you are at minimum planning to purchase wine (and probably 6 or more bottles).
* Most smaller producers will not have back vintages available for their most prestigious vineyards. They may only have a limited selection available for tasting. This means that much of this wine will still be in its infancy when you taste and purchase, and it may take years to mature. You should have a plan in place for how you will cellar the wine (off-site, Eurocave, etc.).
* Burgundy is not setup like Napa. The producers do not typically make the wine at the vineyards. They often own multiple plots at different vineyards in the different appellations. Only some producers have tastings rooms, and you will often taste in the cellar. You will need to bike, walk, or drive by car to see the different vineyards in the different appellations.
* Remember to keep in touch with your favorite producers. I have found this gains me access to their smaller bottlings of their more prestigious wines, and it can be well worth it to purchase wine directly from the domaine and import to the USA for a much lower cost than you will find available at wine-searcher or your local wine shop.
* You may want to frame your visit as establishing a connection with that producer. You are building a base to purchase wine in the future that can be difficult to find.
**When to go:**
* Late Spring through Summer is the best time to visit, as the grapes are growing, and producers will have time for visits.
* Late Fall through Winter can be a good time to go with enough planning. The Hospices de Beaune Auction occurs in mid-November which can be exciting if you plan (and want to buy a barrel) or a horrible experience because you may struggle to find accommodation near by.
* Do not try to go during harvest (August through October) if you want to visit any smaller producers. They will not have time for you. They will also not likely respond to any emails or phone calls outside of their release if this occurs during this time.
**How to arrange a visit:**
* It can be a challenge to get ahold of many producers as they’re not set up for tastings. Many are appointment only (and you should try to be on time or you may be skipped). You should create a list of your favorite producers (or look up highly recommended ones in your price range) and start there.
* You are going to need to email and call to setup your visits with most producers. Maybe multiple times. It is going to take a lot of effort. You should start with your favorite producers and work down from there. Start well in advance of your trip – setting up visits is secondary job to most of the producers. On my first visit I think I reached out to 70+ producers to arrange tastings at places on my list, and had to make compromises. It was exhausting, but worth it.
* Most producers only work a normal Monday to Friday, 9-5pm work schedule with a lunch break from 12-2pm. It can be difficult to visit outside these hours. You should plan your tastings around this. Be sure to check their hours if you are coming back to pick up wine.
* There are many producers (DRC, Leroy, etc.) that may require an “in” to arrange a visit. You should talk to your wine buyer, shop, and their importer about this if you want to visit, but you probably will not be able to arrange this visit.
* The larger negociants (Drouhin, Jadot, Bouchard, etc.) will probably be the most welcoming to visitors and tastings. Most of these have the ability to book tastings online. They will also care less if you purchase their wines.
* There are several private caves to arrange tastings and purchases from. I probably won’t go into too much detail around these, but they can be an excellent way to purchase wine. This will require more research, because you won’t typically find these caves on [wine-searcher.com](https://www.wine-searcher.com/) but I know of several I purchase from and they can provide excellent pricing. These can often be your best bet for older vintages.
* Private tours – I have found these to be lacking in my experience, though I have had great service. I find that many of these services will take you to the larger / touristy producers who I do not recommend. I assume there’s a kick-back for that. I have stumbled across a few private caves from this though. I’d avoid this route if possible.
**Recommended Producers (that either currently had, or had accessible tastings):**
* Recommendations for visits – Anne Gros, Michel Gros, PYCM, Comtes Lafon, Dugat-Py, Dujac, Henri Gouges, Liger-Belair, Meo Camuzet, Michel Noëllat
* Will take some work (but not impossible): Jean Grivot, Michel Lafarge, Francois Carillon, Bruno Clair, Dugat, Ramonet, Sylvian Cathiard, Gros Frère et Soeur
* Other Producers to Consider – Ponsot, Domaine Faiveley, Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, Mongeard Mugneret, Fourrier, J.J. Confuron, Christian Confuron, Rion Armelle et Bernard, Leroux, LaMarche, Amiot Servelle, Domaine d’Ardhuy, Trapet Père et Fils, Taupenot-Merme
* Note about Smaller Producers – You will often see a Degustation and Vente sign outside these.
* Known Tasting Room: Bertagna (the wines has gotten better IMHO, but had fallen from their peak in the past)
* Negociants – Jospeh Drouhin (Probably the best tour), Bouchard Pere et Fils, Jadot, Oliver Leflaive (you should eat here)
* Caves – CPH La Grande Boutique du Vin (good), Le Cellier de la Cabiote, La maison des vins, La Vinothèque, La Grande Cave de Vougeot, Cavon de Bacchus, Mes Bourgognes Beaune (natural wines), LA CAVE DE L’ANGE GARDIEN, La P’tite Cave, Cave Jacques François, Athenaeum (more of a bookshop than wine, but worth a visit), Millésimes à la Carte (okay), Marché aux Vins (touristy), Nicolas (chain)
* Avoid (IMHO) – Chateau de Marsannay (tourist trap), Chateau Corton C, Patriarche Père et Fils, Chateau de Meursault, Chateau de Pommard, Chateau de Santenay, VINOBOAM (Reports they won’t ship your wine)
**How to purchase wine and bring it home:**
* I recommend shipping your wine home if you live outside the EU. This allows you to avoid the VAT tax on the wine, and I have often found it to be much cheaper to purchase this way than to bring it home. You will save 20% off the list price by shipping outside the EU which can often easily cover the price of shipping.
* If you ship your wine, this allows you to bike around the area which I highly recommend.
* You should have an idea of what it would cost to purchase the wines you select at home to see if this is a good deal. I have normally found the prices to be better when your purchase direct from the domaine or if it’s an allocated 1er or GC that you would have difficulty finding.
* There are two main importers in the region that will pick up your wine and ship it to your house when it is appropriate – Cote d’Or Imports and MBE Dijon. You can email them in advance to setup a grouped order or you can get typically get a sheet from one of the domaines (they normally work with one or the other). With Cote d’Or it is useful to buy in quantities of 12, and from MBE Dijon to buy 60+ bottles.
* I found it to average between $12 – $35 USD to ship per bottle (the price fluctuates due to insurance).
* You can also stop by a domaine to taste and order and pick up your wines later if you are going by bike, but want to travel with your wines by car. If you do this, you will need to pay the VAT.
**Where to stay:**
* Beaune – I recommend using Beaune as your main base of operations. Burgundy revolves around Beaune (even if you are a Cotes de Nuits guy like myself). It is a big enough city to provide plenty of excellent food options, and if you are doing any activities or tours, they will leave from here. There are more wine shops in this town than the other areas, and places to do tastings outside the domaines.
* Nuits-Saint-Georges – Not a bad option if you plan to bike around the Cote de Nuits. There is less to do here than in Beaune, but there are multiple restaurants and Caves. I may suggest moving here for part of your stay if you are in the Cote d’Or for multiple days.
* Vougeot / Vosnee-Romanee / Chambole-Musigny / Morey-Saint-Denis – These are beautiful small towns that you should visit, and are nice to stay in if you have a car and bike. You will likely need to eat outside these towns depending on the day / time which can be a challenge depending on how much you’ve drank and your biking skills. I really enjoy some of the B&Bs and the Chateau de Gilly. Many of the producers have their own apartments you can rent. Maybe 2-3 nights at one of these towns depending how long you are staying.
**How to get there:**
* By car is the easiest, but not necessary depending on the weather (you will want a car if it’s raining).
* You can take the train from Dijon to either Beaune or Nuits-Saint-Georges (or the other stops), and then bike or walk for most of the time.
**How to get around:**
* I recommend using a bike or walking when you can. You probably won’t be carrying too much wine with you at any point. I normally bike outside of Beaune, and walk in Beaune. There are some great bike paths through the vineyards that would be difficult to travel otherwise.
* For some producers it is still probably best to have a car. Be safe if you do this, and probably knock these out early in the day.
**Other things to do and see:**
* Hospices de Beaune (you can also buy Hospices de Beaune wines in their gift shop for good prices).
* Chateau du Clos de Vougeot
* Bike the vineyards (I cannot stress this enough)
* Sample Dijon mustard at La Moutarderie Fallot
* Truffle hunt at Rion Armelle et Bernard
* Cooking class at The Cook’s Atelier
* Cheese at Alain Hess or Fromagerie Delin
* Cluny Abbey
* Cîteaux Abbey
* Cremant at Veuve Ambal
* Collegiale Notre Dame
**Eat:**
* Michelin Guide is your friend here
Dining and Cooking