Scones, Doughnuts and Banana Bread | Milk Street TV Season 7, Episode 17

In this episode, we show you three baking recipes ideal for a weekend breakfast. First, Christopher Kimball and Milk Street Cook Bianca Borges make richly flavored Neapolitan Salami-Provolone Buns. Then, Milk Street Cook Matthew Card bakes Banana Hazelnut Bread, perfectly balanced with a moist and tender crumb. To finish, Milk Street Cook Rose Hattabaugh prepares light and lemony Cinnamon Sugar Yogurt Doughnuts.

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♪ ♪ – In any case, if you’re gonna stuff bread– I’m not saying it’s a good idea or bad idea, I’m neutral on this– you might as well really stuff it. So, salami, prosciutto, and provolone. Absolutely delicious. And they could be lunch, they could be a snack. I guess they could be breakfast.

But they are full of flavor, and they’re really easy to make. You can’t have marshmallows without torching them a little bit. So that’s gonna give it a little toasty flavor. ♪ ♪ So, if you break your cake, here’s something really fun you can try. Just plop it in the middle of the table,

And everyone can just dig in. – It’s remarkably tender, it’s really moist, and it has this amazing, very unique flavor because of all the hazelnuts ground up in there. A little bit of cinnamon, the vanilla, and it’s vegan. This is the kind of bread you can make on a Monday morning.

And it’ll keep fresh for school lunches through, well, at least Wednesday, if it lasts that long. – These are so light and delicious. I hope you will try these cinnamon sugar yogurt doughnuts. It’s the easiest doughnut you could ever make at home. And they require no special equipment,

No yeasted dough, and no planning ahead. So, let’s get started. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ – As we travel around the world, we come across lots of recipes. And one category is quick breads. And they’re much more interesting than pound cake. Breakfast buns in Naples, for example,

Have salami in them and provolone. We found a simple banana bread, but it’s made with hazelnuts. And in Romania, they have these wonderful little doughnuts made with yogurt and cinnamon. So stay tuned as we explore scones, doughnuts, and banana bread from all around the world.

– Funding for this series was provided by the following… – Introducing Hestan ProBond. Crafted from the resilience of cold-forged stainless steel, we collaborate with top chefs to redefine cookware and the kitchen experience. Italian craftsmanship meets innovation with Hestan ProBond. ♪ ♪ – It’s morning in Naples. The seafood markets are open. The guy selling tomatoes on the hood of his Fiat is opening a beer. – Grazie. – And at Salumeria Pio, a tiny hole-in-the-wall shop on the corner, Pio di Benedetto has just pulled a tray of buns out of the oven. ♪ ♪

They’re like savory scones, filled with bits of hard salami, prosciutto, and cheese left over from the shop. We wanted to bring the recipe back to Milk Street. And sometimes that means we literally take something back to Milk Street. ♪ ♪ – Hey, Rose. – Oh, hey, Wes.

– I have a challenge for you. – Okay. – These little rolls in here, if you can believe it, came all the way from Naples. – Oh, all right. – They were produced by a bakery there, and they’re like a morning bun, sort of like a scone.

I think there’s a little bit of meat and cheese in there, but I thought we should taste them together and figure out what path we want to take to develop the recipe. – All right. Thank you for bringing me breakfast. I appreciate that. What kind of cheese do you think that is?

– I don’t know, pretty sharp. – Mm-hmm. – Is it maybe provolone or… – Sure. – Could be just Parmesan, but I do know that they, that they did use yeast in it. You can see there’s a lot of nice, sort of bubbly… – Oh, interesting. Okay. – …crevices in the dough,

Which is, which is unusual for a, like, a breakfast pastry. – Yeah, yeah, it is. Do we know anything else? – I just, I have a feeling this is probably, you know, leftover bits and pieces of meat that they have in the bakery from sandwiches and, and–

So we’d have to figure out what we want to use here and what would taste best. – Okay. – I think probably salami here. – Maybe some prosciutto, too, I see. – Oh, that’d be good. I think, I mean, by the flavor, I think there’s probably lard in there.

– Yeah, I think so, too. – Which would make sense that… – Yeah. – …you can really tell that sort of meaty flavor. – Yeah. Let me take a crack at it. – All right. – And I will get back to you. – Awesome. – Okay, thanks. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪

– So when we travel, we always bring recipes, or at least ideas for recipes back. This is from Naples. It’s a stuffed bread you have, I guess, for breakfast. – Mm-hmm. – In any case, if you’re gonna stuff bread– I’m not saying it’s a good idea or bad idea, I’m neutral on this–

You might as well really stuff it. So salami and prosciutto and provolone in a yeasted bread, which also has some butter in it, as well. So, it took us a while, though, to… because I think we brought one back. – Yes. – We didn’t have the recipe.

So we had to actually figure it out on our own, right? – Right. The shop in Naples where we found this bread, the guy who owns the shop told us how he made it. He gave us some bread, but he didn’t provide a recipe. But this salami and prosciutto

And the stinkiest provolone you can find, you combine this in a dense, scone-like dough, and it’s just fabulous. – And by the way, this is not a recipe– we couldn’t find this online anywhere. – Right. – So it’s probably kind of unique. – Okay, so what do we do?

– We have our nice aged provolone already cut up in little cubes, and we’re gonna cut some salami. Now, he just cuts cubes of salami from a, you know, from a log. But here we mostly get sliced salami. So we’re just gonna chop it coarsely.

Just give it a coarse chop in one direction and a coarse chop in the other direction. And you see that bunch of butter there? We’re going to eventually put that in the dough. Okay, prosciutto. Now, you might ask, why aren’t we doing this in the food processor? Because it will get gummed up.

– Yeah, it’ll turn into a fatty mess, – And you risk overprocessing it. You really want chunks, because these are visible and taste amazing in this bread. You see them, and you bite into it, and you get these different textures. Now, this meat has, obviously,

A lot of fat and moisture in it, which comes out in the dough, so we want to remove a little bit of that prior, and we want to crisp up the meat a bit so it has more chewy texture in the bun. And while we were developing, we found that

We could do this in the microwave. It worked really great. It was fast. You can also do it in a skillet, if you want. But the microwave keeps it sort of a one-bowl affair. – So now I have three things to do in the microwave. One is to reheat leftovers,

Heat up my coffee when it gets cold, and render fat from salami and prosciutto for a breakfast roll. – That’s right. – I’m up to three things. – If you do use a microwave, it takes about one minute on high with no cover on it. – Okay. Microwaved. – Yep.

One minute. That’s all it took. If any fat drains out, just pour it off, and then you’re ready to go. The meat’s got a little chewiness to it. – Does it have more flavor, though? – It does. – Mmm. – So, the dough comes together really quickly in the food processor.

This is all-purpose flour. And then we have the yeast. Now, why not use a chemical leavener? Well, in Italy and in this guy’s shop, he used yeast. It comes together quickly in the processor. All it is, is flour, black pepper, and yeast. What’s missing? – Salt? – Right.

– Because… – I mean, salted butter, salty provolone, salty meats. Now, the pepper should be coarsely ground black pepper, fresh black pepper, because you want that intense peppery taste. – To stand up to the… – Yeah. – …other ingredients. This butter should be pretty cold, right?

– Yes, you want cold butter… – Which it is. – Yeah, just like, just like as if you’re making a pie dough or something. And we do want to work it in until it’s like a sandy texture. – Now, if you look at it now, it’s still white and floury.

And when it’s fully cut in, it’s gonna be a little yellowish and not floury. Okay, we’re good. – That looks great. – Just gonna add the provolone to the meats here. Then we’ll add all the dry ingredients. There you go. Now, in Naples, Pio, the shop owner, used all lard.

He also used no water. – Hmm. – So, it was, just worked in the lard until it became a dough. And his buns were very, very dense. We just wanted to lighten them up a little bit. And we also like the interaction of water with the yeast, because yeast needs some hydration

To, uh, do its thing, right? There we go. You want to start drizzling? – We’re not gonna use all the water. We’re gonna use some of the water, see how it goes, and… – So, in there, is a cup and a quarter of water.

And, as you said, always hold back a little bit. This recipe usually takes at least a cup of water. This dough looks really shaggy now. It always looks drier than it actually is. Same for pie dough. Every time. You have to put your hands in it to feel.

And you’ll be amazed at how moist it is. We’re not gonna use that last little bit of water there. Okay, so now we’re going to use a measuring cup to portion these out and put them right on the sheet tray. – Okay. – This makes 12 buns, nicely proportioned

In these little half-cup measures. You don’t want to pack it too tightly, just lightly. It doesn’t matter if the edges are completely smooth. Yep, you can just tap it out. And you get about six per tray. Now, these keep really well. You can imagine why, right? They keep really well.

But what also is good about them, they freeze like a dream. I put about half of these in the freezer and you take them out, let them come to room temperature, and if you want, you can toast them in the oven a little bit and crisp them up again. They’re fantastic.

And because these have yeast in them, we’ll give them about an hour rest time. They’re not gonna puff up, they don’t double. But they do poof, just a little bit. Cover with a towel. And put them in a warm-ish place for about an hour. Then we will preheat the oven to 425,

About a half an hour in with these risings. ♪ ♪ – So? – Let’s do the reveal. It’s been an hour. Ooh! – It looks so different than it did an hour ago. So, it doesn’t, it doesn’t look that much different, so I got to ask, why not use baking powder?

Because you’re not looking at a big rise. Not only did Pio in Naples use yeast, so we’re following that, but, when you have a yeasted bread, you have a little bit more pull, a little bit more chew. – So it has a breadier texture. – Yeah, breadier rather than a scone-ier biscuit-y…

– Less scone-y, more bready. Okay. – You knew what you wanted me to say. Okay, but look, I mean, they did poof up a little bit. You can see, they’re just very lightly puffed, which is great. Now we have the oven at 425. We’re gonna bake these one sheet at a time.

They take 25 to 27 minutes. So, you want to go first? – Sure. – You’re gonna say they look great. – I am. – Aren’t you? I can tell. – Yes. I mean, look at that. Look how the cheese has oozed out the edges and gets crispy.

Studded with the salami and the prosciutto… And they’re a lot lighter than you think they’re gonna be. – These look like a commercial for some great Italian restaurant or something, doesn’t it? – Great Italian. that’s the keyword, “great.” Look at that. Pulling apart like bread. – Those are really good. – Mm-hmm.

– I mean, I’m not sure I’m gonna eat three of them in one sitting, but they are really good. – This, to me, is a great afternoon snack. – So, Neapolitan salami provolone buns from that little store, that little shop bakery in Naples run by Pio. Absolutely delicious. And they could be lunch.

They could be a snack. I guess they could be breakfast. But they are full of flavor, and they’re really easy to make. So, there you go. ♪ ♪ – Sometimes you have a baking fail. It happens to the best of us, even happens to me occasionally.

One of those is you don’t grease your pan properly. And if you don’t take the time, especially for a Bundt pan, to really get in all those nooks and crannies, sometimes this happens. If it happens to you, don’t worry. I have a really fun way to resurrect a broken cake like this,

And I’m gonna show you that right now. So, here’s my broken Bundt cake. This is actually an orange cake. So, I’m gonna just cut it up in chunks. I’m gonna put that in a bowl. And this is actually something I have done for an adult dinner party, believe it or not.

And I am gonna use a little bit of liqueur to mix up with the cake. I’m using orange because we have an orange cake. I’m using about quarter cup to a half cup. You want to do this for children, just use juice. And we’re just gonna toss this together

To get some of that into the cake, moisten it a little bit. So I’m gonna let that soak while I prep my other toppings. I’m gonna start with my ice cream. I’m using two flavors, but you could use three if you want. You want to scoop your ice cream onto a sheet pan

And let it freeze solid so the ice cream won’t melt while you’re putting it together. So now that the ice cream is frozen, I’m ready to assemble. This is a layered dessert. So I’m gonna start by putting my cake at the bottom of a beautiful dish.

I’m gonna add my scoops of ice cream. And I have an assortment of berries, but you could use any fruit you want. Bananas would be really good here. Even some peaches or pineapple. I’ve whipped some heavy cream here. I’m gonna add some of that. And then I’m gonna continue to layer.

This is a great way to use up some of the things in your freezer or your cabinet. It would be so much fun for a birthday party or even at the end of a dinner party. And the final touch, I like to add some marshmallows. These are gourmet marshmallows. I bought these.

But you can also use anything that you would use on a s’more. And you can’t have marshmallows without torching them a little bit. So that’s gonna give it a little toasty flavor. ♪ ♪ Finish off with a little chocolate sauce. You could use caramel sauce if you like.

You don’t have to use chocolate sauce, but I love chocolate, so this works for me. And then, because I love sprinkles, we’re gonna add a few sprinkles. So if you break your cake, here’s something really fun you can try. Just plop it in the middle

Of the table, and everyone can just dig in. ♪ ♪ So, I stumbled across Black Isle Bakery on a recent trip to Berlin. The woman who owned it, Ruth Berry, is anything but a classic baker. And what really stood out to me was this banana hazelnut bread,

Which was anything but a standard banana bread. It was rich with hazelnuts. It was very tender, it was moist. And it turned out to be vegan. A lot to love here. So let’s go ahead and get started. I’ve heated an oven to 350 degrees with a rack in the middle position.

I’m gonna put three-quarter cup of the hazelnuts in a nine-by-five loaf pan and toast them until they’re lightly browned, which takes about eight to ten minutes. So the nuts have cooled, and it’s time to peel them. You really don’t want to leave the skins on hazelnuts because they can taste really bitter.

So, all I’m gonna do is wrap them up in a towel and rub them back and forth. It’s really the single best way to remove the skins from hazelnuts. Let’s put a towel down. We’re gonna turn those hazelnuts in. And wrap up that towel,

So we don’t have them spilling all over the floor. And just work them back and forth. Just rub them between your hands. and the friction causes the skin to fall right off. It’s okay if a few skins remain on, but you really want to try and get most of it off.

Now, I’m gonna pull aside a quarter cup of the hazelnuts and chop them coarsely. These are gonna go on top of the bread. I like using a serrated knife for chopping nuts because it prevents them from bouncing all over the countertop. So now we’re gonna go ahead, and we’re gonna make the batter.

Now we’re gonna use a food processor, which is really interesting for a banana bread. But what we’re gonna do is turn these hazelnuts into hazelnut flour, which is gonna add a lot of moisture and flavor and texture to our bread. I’m gonna combine a half-cup of hazelnuts, three-quarter cup sugar,

One-and-three-quarter cups cake flour, two teaspoons baking powder, one teaspoon baking soda, two teaspoons cinnamon, and a half-teaspoon of salt in the food processor. I’m gonna grind this until the nuts are finely ground. Now I’m gonna transfer the dry ingredients to a large mixing bowl because we’re gonna use the food processor

To blend the oil and bananas together to form a really smooth emulsion. I’m gonna add one-and-a-half cups mashed ripe bananas. You don’t have to mash them totally smooth. A third cup neutral oil like grapeseed oil, and two teaspoons vanilla extract. And I’m gonna puree this until it’s a smooth texture.

Now I’m gonna add the banana mixture to the dry ingredients and then fold it all together with a spatula. You really want to make sure to not overmix it. Little bits of flour are okay. Once blended, we’re gonna transfer that batter to a prepared pan and smooth the top.

Make sure to get it all out of the bowl and into the pan. Now, to finish the loaf, we’re gonna sprinkle evenly with one tablespoon crunchy turbinado sugar and those chopped hazelnuts we’d reserved. And now I’m gonna bake the loaf until it’s golden brown, and a toothpick

Inserted right into the middle comes out clean, which usually takes about 50 to 55 minutes. ♪ ♪ Once you open the oven door, the smell is just amazing. It’s just so different than your typical banana bread. After ten minutes, use the parchment handles to lift the cake out of the pan

And put it on a wire rack to cool. The loaf is cooled to room temperature, and it looks just like it did at the bakery, so I can’t wait to cut into this. Mmm. It’s remarkably tender. It’s really moist, and it has this amazing, very unique

Flavor because of all the hazelnuts ground up in there. A little bit of cinnamon, the vanilla, and it’s vegan. This is the kind of bread you can make on a Monday morning, and it’ll keep fresh for school lunches through, well, at least Wednesday, if it lasts that long.

I hope you, too, will try the banana hazelnut bread I had in Berlin, and it’ll become a family favorite. ♪ ♪ – Making doughnuts at home can often lead to heartbreak. Fussy, yeasted batters often end in greasy, sodden results. Lucky for us, we found the lightest doughnut we have ever tried

From Romanian cookbook author Irina Georgescu. Romanians love doughnuts. From jam-filled Berliners to lemony papanasi, they line the cases of the country. Gogosi rapide are the simplest of the bunch, and they require no special equipment, no yeasted dough, and no planning ahead. So let’s get started.

First, we want to whisk our dry ingredients together. So we have all-purpose flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. The secret to these doughnuts is a cultured cheese that is used in Romania. But Irina uses Greek yogurt as a substitute, and it creates that same tang and leavening.

So that’s what we’re gonna use here. So we have our eggs, our Greek yogurt, we have some milk… …some almond extract… …and some lemon zest. You don’t want to use regular yogurt here. It’s too wet for this. The Greek yogurt gives the doughnuts a little bit more texture.

So we’ve got a little bit of lemon zest, and I’m gonna whisk that together. Simple. And… I’m gonna add that to the dry ingredients and whisk that until all the flour is incorporated. So this batter is really thick and scoopable. So I’m switching to a spatula now so I can get all

Of the dry ingredients incorporated. That looks pretty good. What we have here is six cups of grapeseed or sunflower oil. It’s about an inch deep in a Dutch oven. What we want to do is heat this to 350 degrees before we start dropping our doughnuts.

You can use two spoons to scoop this batter. It’s about two tablespoons of batter per doughnut. We found the easiest way to do this is a spring-loaded scoop. That’s kind of the easiest way to do it. And it also produces a really round doughnut. And they’ll actually flip themselves over by themselves.

So our oil is at 350. I’m going to drop half the doughnuts right now, that’s ten of them, into the oil. And fry them up. And if they don’t flip themselves over, you can just do that carefully with a spoon. We’re going to give these about three or four minutes to cook.

♪ ♪ These are so beautiful. I’m going to take these out, and we’re gonna drop in the next batch. I’m gonna let these cool a little bit on a wire rack. They are gonna get sprinkled with a cinnamon sugar, but we have to let them cool a little bit before we do that.

Otherwise the sugar will clump. ♪ ♪ So, this is the last one. They’re deep golden brown, and they’re ready to sugar. So we’re going to roll these in a half a cup of sugar and a tablespoon of cinnamon that we whisk together. And again, these are warm.

They’re not piping hot because the sugar will clump if you sugar them a little too early. We’re gonna serve these with crème fraiche and cherry jam, which kind of mimics what they would serve with papanasi. I think they are so delicious with the crème fraiche and the jam,

But they’re still delicious without it. So here they are. Aren’t they beautiful? I’m gonna break one open so you can see how light and fluffy these are. Look at that. Isn’t that beautiful? And I am gonna serve mine with the crème fraiche and the cherry jam. ♪ ♪

These are so light and delicious. I hope you will try these cinnamon sugar yogurt doughnuts. It’s the easiest doughnut you could ever make at home. For this recipe and all the recipes for this season, go to MilkStreetTV.com. – Recipes and episodes from this season of Milk Street are available MilkStreetTV.com,

Along with shopping lists, printer-ready recipes, and step-by-step videos. Access our content anytime to change the way you cook. – The new Milk Street Cookbook is now available and includes every recipe from our TV show. From pad Thai with shrimp and no-fry eggplant parmesan to Korean fried chicken and salty honey browned butter bars,

The Milk Street Cookbook offers bolder, fresher, easier recipes. Order your copy of the Milk Street Cookbook for $27, 40% less than the cover price. Call 855-MILK-177 or order online. – Funding for this series was provided by the following… – Introducing Hestan ProBond. Crafted from the resilience of cold-forged stainless steel,

We collaborate with top chefs to redefine cookware and the kitchen experience. Italian craftsmanship meets innovation with Hestan ProBond. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪