Calabria – Bergamot orange refines marinated swordfish and risotto | At our Neighbour’s Table

At the tip of Italy’s boot in Calabria grows a fruit with an impressive history. Famous perfumers travelled for it thousands of kilometres, simple black tea was ennobled to an Earl Grey and a completely new aroma found its way into kitchens and bakeries: the bergamot orange. Giuseppe Vadalà grows the fruit and uses it to refine dishes such as swordfish, risotto or farfalle with tuna.

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Chapters
▷ 0:00 – Intro
▷ 00:31 – At our Neighbour’s Table in Calabria

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For farmer Giuseppe Vadalà and his assistant Vincenzo, harvesting the bergamot orange is the most beautiful time of the year: the fruit spreads its intense aroma as soon as it is picked and fills the whole plantation with its fresh scent. Unlike in northern Italy, there are no factories with 10,000 jobs in Calabria. Here, the harvest is still done by hand in small, familiar family businesses. Experienced pickers like Vincenzo and Giuseppe manage between 600 and 800 kg in a single day.
The bergamot orange is also a botanical enigma: It is grown in other countries such as the Ivory Coast and Argentina, but nowhere are the trees as productive and the fruits as aromatic as in Calabria. Only here are the optimal growing conditions such as the mineral soil and the “moderately humid” microclimate guaranteed.
Famous for its unmistakable aroma, the bergamot orange is used in the perfume industry and, for example, in Earl Grey. Giuseppe and his mother Maria, however, refine numerous dishes with the citrus fruit: marinated swordfish, risotto, farfalle with tuna and cakes. Other specialities are Calabrian macaroni and lamb stew cooked on an open fire. It shows that food culture is very important in Calabria: In Guiseppe’s family, cooking does not just mean preparing meals, but also feeling familiarity and cohesion.

At our Neighbour’s Table – Calabria | Season 2022 – Episode 274
2022 © Licensed by Berlin Producers

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Um Thank you There’s a rare fruit growing in southern Italy famous perfumers once traveled thousands of miles for this Citrus which elevated plain black tea to Earl Gray and introduced a whole new Aroma to kitchens and bakeries the bergamot’s orange Thank you vadala Harvest time is the best time of the year foreign Bitter flavor is used to refine numerous Delicacies swordfish and risotto farfalle pasta with tuna and calabrian cakes Giuseppe’s Mother Maria vadala uses the zest of Bergamot to Jazz up all of her desserts Bergamot Grove looks over the coast of the ionian sea at the toe of Italy mid-December Harvest Time the Sun is up Giuseppe and Vincenzo barila are out in the bergamoteto as the plantations are cooled in Italy Vincenzo is a family friend and long time employee harvesting is still carried out by hand

Experienced Pickers like Vincenzo and Giuseppe can manage between 600 and 800 kilos a day Giuseppe studied and worked abroad for a long time in England as an assistant cook and in a travel agency in Tarifa in Spain with the help of a scholarship he completed his Master’s Degree in

Northern Spain and it’s where his girlfriend still lives when his uncle died and bequeathed him a small Plantation he was drawn back to the region he took out a loan bought some additional land and began his fruit growing Adventures the Bergamot is something of a Botanical mystery it’s grown in other countries

Including the Ivory Coast and Argentina but nowhere are the trees as productive and the fruits as aromatic as in Calabria foreign of the worldwide supply of the fruit originates from the less than 150 kilometer long growing region in Calabria um foreign The Growers can also thank the mineral

Soil and the temperate and humid microclimate Vicenzo and Giuseppe take turns with the cooking for lunch today Giuseppe is making farfala pasta with tuna and Bergamot for the sauce he chops an onion into small pieces the pair like their food spicy and so he uses a whole calabrian chili pepper thank you flat leaf parsley brings freshness to the dish

Borno Giuseppe briefly sautes the onions and chili then adds the tuna The cooked farfalle goes straight into the pan important um Foreign the sauce is made with lemon but since trying it with Bergamot Giuseppe has never looked back um no Equilibrium just a five minute drive from the plantation is the start of the aspramonte national park aspermonte translates as rough mountain and is a popular region for long and secluded hikes Giuseppe’s parents live on the road that leads from the mountains to the Sea His mother Maria has promised homemade macaroni for tonight’s dinner to get things going she mixes Durham wheat flour with olive oil and water it’s important to knead the dough for a long time so it doesn’t tear when the pasta are formed your family yeah Australia Calabrian macaroni are not long and thin but short and thick Foreign To knock up a bread dough vicenzo is already preparing the plantation’s old Wood-Fired oven he works without gloves in the case of minor accidents there’s always a home remedy Within Reach ES images oh yeah Maria’s birds are very popular vicenzo asks her to bake some for the evening meal

Heating the oven is time consuming and so she always prepares a large amount of dough party Amita is before the baking can begin Maria clears the oven and pushes The Embers to one side to make room for the dough which is placed directly on the hot path

She forms small loaves of bread this way they emerge crispy on the outside and nice and soft on the inside they have to get them into the oven quickly so the heat doesn’t escape I know they bought it the bergamot’s orange has enjoyed a surge in popularity in recent years many

New trees have been planted and the cultivation areas are larger than ever oh the most famous tree nursery in the region is that of 85 year old Gardner Angelo fulfari he’s also known as the tree Whisperer because his plants are particularly High yielding a reputation that stood for over 50 years Piano foreign thank you the origins of the Bergamot are yet to be fully traced it’s likely that it’s a hybrid fruit of lemon and bitter orange cuttings from Bergamot seeds often fail to take root so to make a new tree a bergamot’s branch is grafted onto the

Stem of a bitter orange cutting yeah for the so-called refinement Master Angelo cuts off and trims a young brunch before grafting he frees the branch of leaves and trims it so that no more than four shoots remain this ensures that later on the branches won’t be too heavy

For the trunk the branches then grafted between the bark and stem of the bitter orange protecting it from drying out and from the cold perfect foreign Vincenzo want to celebrate their good harvest With Friends Vincenzo’s specialty is nourishing meat dishes today he’s making a lamb stew to be served with Maria’s macaroni he uses a very large pot so that the pieces of meats can all cook evenly there are numerous varieties of the dish

In Calabria with potatoes or peas as well as artichokes Vincenzo has his own recipe with only carrots onion onion and a little Sage nothing should distract from the Flavor of the meat thank you or stewing he only adds water salt and plenty of olive oil the fire takes care of the rest

Chainsaw only has to add wood from time to time and wait um they’re fresh from harvesting duties when the lamb is done the men take it out of the pot to make room for what comes next the pastor does not have to be cooked only briefly soaked in the sauce um Maria uses Bergamot zest to refine all of her cakes the slightly bitter and fresh Aroma is a good contrast to the sweetness of the sugar she mixes two egg yolks with sugar and then gradually the flour After the Bergamot zest cream and beaten egg whites are added to the batter For baking Maria gently slides the batter into a springform pan lined with baking paper while the cake is baking she prepares the glazing the recipe is relatively new to Maria h stop Um Foreign she mixes the Bergamot zest with the juice of the fruits and icing sugar [Applause] as a child Maria would help out on her parents Plantation is foreign until recently Maria vicenzo and Giuseppe helped with the Harvest but at 70 years of age she has now hung up her

Boots but she visits the men regularly and brings them tasty treats and refreshments foreign foreign Giuseppe and Vincenzo keep some of the Harvest for themselves and the rest is sold The pair are busy with the Harvest and so Giuseppe’s best friend Giovanna pizzi has come over to cook for them she is making a risotto with the celebrated tropia red onion thank you Dolce a conference once the onions are so sauteed Giovanna adds the rice juicy Giovanna is a pharmacist and knows a

Thing or two about nutrition universities finally she adds parmesan to the risotto foreign is preparing a marinated swordfish for the risotto for this he needs fresh Bergamot juice Bergamot chili and mint a perfect Trio for the fish Motorola Madre is Thank you