Il cacciucco in un ristorante Michelin livornese con la famiglia Zazzeri – La Pineta*

Il cacciucco è la più ricca e complessa zuppa di pesce italiana. La famiglia Zazzeri, da tre generazioni alla guida del ristorante La Pineta, una stella Michelin a Marina di Bibbona, racconta la storia e il procedimento per realizzare la ricetta originale livornese. Prendetevi il giusto tempo per seguire gli Zazzeri e scoprire un altro grande piatto della cucina di mare italiana.

In collaborazione con Berkel https://www.theberkelworld.com/it

Pesce e frutti di mare presenti nella cacciucco della Pineta: polpo, seppia, rombo, palombo, rana pescatrice, gallinella, cozze, canocchie, piccole triglie, scorfanetti, e altri pesci piccoli

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Good morning, everyone. Welcome to our kitchen. We are at La Pineta restaurant in Marina di Bibbona. I am Daniele Zazzeri and this is my mother, Resi. Today we are going to show you cacciucco alla Livornese. – We’ll start from the traditional Livorno recipe to then

Get to how we do it now at the restaurant. – The restaurant starts in 1964 with my grandfather and his brother and obviously things evolved from there and we moved forward. We became a bit of a point of reference for the area, until 1998 when my father Luciano took in

His hands the reins of the restaurant and evolved it until 2006, when it was awarded the Michelin star, which we continue to hold proudly today. Cacciucco alla livornese is a dish that has a distant history and there are many legends that revolve around cacciucco. Many tell that

It was born in a way, many say it was another, there’s those who say it was born from the lighthouse keeper and that they had forbidden him to use oil to make food and cook fish or fry it, because it was supposed to be used to turn on the lighthouse. Another story

Tells about a Turkish derivation, because ‘caciuc’ was this dish – fishermen who went fishing – and from that, this fish soup, the cacciucco, which in any case was born inevitably as a poor dish. – Absolutely, a recovery dish a dish made with leftovers, because clearly like all things back in the day,

The good fish were sold at the market, they were sold to be processed and so on. Fishermen were left with the cheapest and therefore what they also had in the boat when they went fishing. They had to make do and they invented this fish soup, that, Daniele, was originally

Cooked all at once, that is, they put in the pot everything together. – Of course. What we are going to use for the cacciucco from La Pineta is important: we have the tomato paste, we use a double tomato paste, then the very important garlic and chilli pepper. The other fundamental thing is

The sage, which gives that balsamic touch of freshness that we use to replicate what used to be the beginning of the cacciucco, therefore to cover a little those that could have been the defects of the various leftover fish, as we said, of the fishermen’s catch. – We’re talking about

A base for fish soup. – Gurnard, white sea bream, smaller monkfish, red mullet, what remained of small size. – Then, clearly, octopus and cuttlefish, because the base of the cacciucco is octopus and cuttlefish and then there are the variations of fish, such as dogfish, then there are perhaps

The scraps of fish that we would consider more valuable, instead in the original we use whole fish, perhaps a small fish which could be like a slightly larger gurnard, left with its bones, because this is how it is done. – Mum, I would say we can start with the

Preparation. What do we start with? – We start by chopping some vegetables, rather finely, so today it’s going to cook a bit faster. Then it’s celery, carrot and white onion. – Are we frying it? – No, I don’t fry anything. So, can you add some oil, please? Then we’ll add a

A bit of garlic and chilli. Go ahead and add the fish. Our soup fish: some mallets, our anglers, we also have a couple of horse mackerels, right? – Of course. Our gurnards, in Tuscany they say gurnards help babies to lose their pacifier. – I’m going to season it with

A little bit of salt and pepper. A nice sprinkling of pepper. We’re adding a bit of tomato water. – This is tomato water only. Add it in. Good, mix it and then you can add broth or water, water is fine too. – But we have our own broth,

We use fish heads and water obviously and a little bit of white wine, nothing more. – Now these here have to cook. You should cover it up to the edge. – Then we put a lid and let it cook. – That’s right. We’re adding a spoonful of tomato paste.

– Perfect. Why do we do this? – Because in any case we use even the tomato paste to give it flavor. – To give it flavor, color, the acidic part… – So, mom, now that we’ve finished adding our fish stock, what next? – We’re covering it,

We place it on a stove over there by itself. It must cook well for at least 30-40 minutes, more or less, and we check on it, because the fish must break down. – So mom, what do we do? – First, the octopus, because the octopus has a longer cooking time,

So we’re cutting the octopus first. – Let’s cut the head first, Let’s eliminate the tooth part, which is a little harder and calloused. Let’s cut to the head into small strips. For the tentacles, how do we work it? I’m usually used to cutting them more or

Less in half and leaving a nice piece longer and another small piece. – Yes, that’s how it should be cut. I’m going to put it in the in the aluminum saucepan. – I only need this half an onion. I follow the original tradition a lot. – What you have been taught,

Rightly so. We’re chopping up a bit of sage, a little coarse no need to worry about it. – Then you add the garlic and the chilli pepper. The garlic is fundamental, the oil was already in the base, I’m adding some garlic and chili pepper again.

– A little bit of parsley. Just a little. Cover it immediately. And we’re cutting the cuttlefish. We’re covering it because in this way the mollusc in the small pot loses its water, and that’s what makes it soft. – Of course, it cooks in its own broth, as

They say. – That’s right, it cooks in its own broth. Let’s cut the cuttlefish, Daniele. – Yes, let’s cut our cuttlefish. Is it right or not, to leave a bit of this black color? – It’s right, it’s right. – Because it gives

A bit of color, so we like to keep it. – Here I go. I turned the heat up, I’m lowering it later. Throw it all in. Perfect. – A dash of wine. – You can put the lid on. – Can you see, Dani? – The soup is

Foaming. – Yes, and not only. See, the fish is breaking down. Then afterward we’re removing the bone in the middle. – And we leave all of the meat. We’re letting it cook a little longer. – It has to cook a little longer. Then we’re adding this to the rest

Of the fish. – Careful. – We’re now filleting the fish. We’re filleting the monkfish first. The monkfish tail is fun because it only has a central bone and the two nice meaty side fillets that we can use as we believe it is better, in pieces or by

Filleting and removing the central part. I’m keeping it today. Let’s move on to our second fish, the dogfish. This is a type of small shark and traditionally this also is chopped into pieces, cut roughly into our cacciucco. As the third fish I’m now going to

Fillet the turbot and there’s nothing to stop you obviously from using any type of fish, because as I repeat the cacciucco is infinite, it’s not like there’s a limit to the number of fish we can use, we can use what we prefer. Here too, we’re cutting our pieces.

– Good. Now let’s move on to the preparation of the fish that will then go together with everything else. So, we added the oil, garlic and chilli and I’m adding the peeled tomato. The fish, as you can see, has broken apart. I will need this broth to

Add it here and there. – In the octopus and cuttlefish and in the fish. – I gave it 30 to 40 minutes of cooking, but if it cooks even longer, it’s fine, it’s nothing bad. – Let’s finish the base, mom, so let’s squeeze a bit our peeled tomatoes. Some tomato paste.

A little bit of parsley. – So mum, now we’re adding a bit of sage as well, what do you think? – Yes, it’s absolutely needed. – And then we’re dividing this base. – We’ll be now cooking this base. Then… – We’ll divide it, why? – We’re dividing it and

Putting it in another saucepan. – Then we’ll use it to cook the fish on one side and on the other broad lobsters. – Exactly, broad lobsters and mussels. – As you can see clearly there are three, four different preparations. Mom, can I add some broth? – Just a bit, because

We’re adding this later. – I’ll add broth now otherwise the tomato will burn. – Let’s prepare… – Let’s check this, so we don’t spoil everything. – Perfect. I had already checked it, mom. – Good. – Don’t you trust your son anymore? – I do trust you.

– So now, like mum was saying, let’s clean the fish soup and remove the largest bones, placing them aside in a small bowl. Everything else that is left of the small bones and meats, we’re going to blend it with a simple hand blender and pass it through a fine sieve.

Let’s say this is the most boring part of the whole preparation. So mum, we usually used a vegetable mill in ancient times like you, who are beautiful but ancient. – It’s true, I destroyed one of my shoulders… This is the best way. – We’re not breaking our shoulders anymore,

Passing through the vegetable mill, we use a beautiful hand blender instead, that gives us the possibility of blending it all. So, let’s take a larger mesh sieve to pass it through first and remove the pieces that are a bit larger, and the chinoise is a little smaller mesh to be used for filtering

More finely, of course. Go ahead, mum. The better we can blend the soup initially, the better because obviously it remains denser, right? – Yes. – OK, Dani. I would say that’s enough. – So, this is the fish soup we managed to get, which as you can see is pretty dense and very tasty.

– Here we’re adding a ladleful of soup so it continues to cook and becomes even softer than it already is. Perfect. – Here instead, we’re adding just a bit of that, and at this point, Daniele, we’re adding the fish. We’re adding the dogfish. Let’s try to divide the two things: dogfish on

One side, the monkfish on the other so at least when later we’re plating the dish, we can add a piece of one, a piece of the other, to give more variation. – The turbot. – And now, salt and pepper. – I’m going with it, I’m ready. – A little parsley.

– So, Daniele can you give me some oil? We’ll add it before covering. Just a little, it is enough. Thanks, to check and monitor the cooking. As soon as the fish becomes nice and milky white, the fish is cooked. Also because if we leave it too long it becomes

Stringy and becomes hard. – So we can move on to cooking the shellfish and mussels. Turn the flame on, can I add some fish soup? – Sure, it’s absolutely necessary. Please go ahead. – Okay, that’s enough. – Let’s clean up our broad lobsters quickly. We are going to

Remove the thorny parts it has on its sides, simply with scissors. And then we’re making an incision in the last phalanx. – Here we’re checking the cooking of the fish. As you can see, it is starting to look nice and white, and is therefore cooking well.

– Broad lobsters on one side and leave some space for the mussels. The secret to open the mussels is to make sure the heat is high, you taught me as a child, this is because they get a thermal shock, they breathe, open and remain open.

I’m going to season with a little salt and pepper here too, on the broad lobsters, just a little to flavor it, but it’s already tasty in itself. And a little bit of parsley. 3 minutes and we are ready. In order to prepare the cacciucco bread I want to

Make slices of more or less 5 millimeters to toast in the oven and use the larger slices as a garnish instead. We’re still going to toast them and use them to be placed right under the fish. They are going to make the cacciucco broth thicker. The bread

We are going to use is our own bread, a classic Tuscan white one, so it’s without salt. We’ll take our bread and we’re placing it in the oven. For a couple of minutes at 180°C for the thicker one. The thinner, instead, we’ll check that it browns a bit and curls up.

We’re usually rubbing some garlic on the bread. The cuttlefish and octopus is ready, as you can see, as well as the fish. Here it is, the broad lobsters and the mussels are ready, all we have to do is to plate them. – First thing, our slice of bread. Let’s take some cuttlefish,

The octopus, and our sauce. Mum, let’s move on to the fish. Let’s obviously look for a piece of fish for each type. This is our monkfish, our turbot and the dogfish. Our broad lobsters and the mussels. To finish, we’re adding our slices of toasted bread, those that are a bit thinner.

And our cacciucco is done! – What do you think, mum? – It turned out really well. – It seems so, then we’ll taste it! You can try and make it at home. When you come visit us in Marina di Bibbona at La Pineta, come and taste it

And let us know what you think! Greetings to all friends of ItaliaSquisita by Daniele – Mum Resi and maybe see you next time! – Thank you!