At the Mercato Centrale in San Lorenzo, one can taste the best food treasures Tuscany has on offer: from the olive oil of the Fiesole hills to the onions of the medieval borough of Certaldo and up to the Natural Reserve of San Marcello with its Tuscan cured meats. Here the simple and genuine tastes are king.
🍽️ Twenty markets, twenty complex systems that play a crucial role in their city. They all have a big belly: the city food market that nourishes a great part of the city’s population.
👨🌾 We all know what a food market is. We’re attracted by the electrifying colors, pulsing sounds, and gorging products. But what do we know about how a food market actually works? How do enormous quantities of food reach there every day and where does it come from? Who decides the prices and puts together thousands of different vendors in huge but concentrated areas?
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– [Narrator] Florence, birthplace of the Renaissance and the very essence of what it means to be Italian. The art collections and laid-back Tuscan lifestyle make it a mecca for tourists from all over the world. The modern-day market was actually invented in Florence 1,000 years ago. Farmers came here to sell their produce
To wealthy merchants and bankers. The central market in San Lorenzo stands next to the church of the same name. Built in 1876 on the foundations of the original, it’s now the biggest food market in Florence. Stalls selling every conceivable type of Tuscan food occupy both floors of this huge building.
They range from simple schiacciata, or flatbread, to rare and expensive black truffles. From the mountains to the coast, Tuscany produces an amazing variety of fruit, vegetables, meat, and seafood. – [Narrator] Florence is not a city of haute cuisine. It prides itself on plain, simple, high-quality food. – [Narrator] Typical Florentine dishes demand the best quality ingredients, and the Mercato Centrale is the place to find them. Most of the 120 stalls sell fresh food and produce, others offer hot meals to eat on the spot. Federico Tognozzi’s pasta stall is a microcosm of the whole market. Together, with his partner, he buys the ingredients, prepares the food, and sells it all under one roof. – [Narrator] Fresh pasta is typically served at the family Sunday lunch. Every Italian has their own favorite recipe, so selling pasta is a bit of a gamble. It’s got to be good. – [Narrator] Every morning, Federico makes his pasta using a simple recipe of fresh eggs, flour, and water. Next, he makes the fillings, which vary from season to season. – [Narrator] Federico turns out more than 30 different kinds of pasta from these small machines. Right now, mushrooms, lemons, and spinach are in season. You can tell what’s in the pasta from its color, brown, green, or yellow. This compact factory in the heart of the market makes pasta to suit all tastes:
Cappelletti, tortellini, ravioli, garganelli, orecchiette, and tagliatelle. Autumn brings out the best in the market. There are colorful displays of typical Tuscan produce such as mushrooms, pumpkins, pomegranates, chestnuts, seasonal salads, and fruit. 70-year-old Remo Manetti takes huge pride in his stall and displaying its produce to look its best. For nearly half a century,
Remo and his welcoming smile have been a fixture at the Mercato Centrale. Selling the best quality fruit and vegetables has been his life’s work. – [Narrator] Remo claims each vegetable has its own unique character and should only be used in certain dishes. His special seasonal soup recipe is extremely precise. – [Narrator] If you don’t have time to prepare the vegetables at home, don’t worry, Remo sells them pre-chopped in 250-gram bags, ready for cooking. – [Narrator] Tuscans love black cabbage. It’s rich in vitamins and is an essential ingredient for many regional dishes. – [Narrator] Andrea and his father are regulars at the market. On this cold morning, they’re after vegetables for ribollita soup. – [Narrator] Even though they live on the other side of the river, they prefer to shop at the San Lorenzo market. Their restaurant is a taste of home in the Santo Spirito district, and needs a constant supply of good, inexpensive fresh fruit and vegetables. – [Narrator] As usual, Mama Graziella is waiting for them so she can start cooking for the day. – [Narrator] Mama Graziella is the boss. Nothing happens in the kitchen without her say so. – [Narrator] Even at the age of 70, she oversees everything and directs the kitchen’s daily rhythm. – [Narrator] She prepares a soffrito from carrots and onions, then adds white beans and tomato puree. The black cabbage goes in last to give the ribollita its distinct subtle bitterness. – [Narrator] The soup simmers for several hours, traditional recipes say up to two days and then is cooked again. Ribollita means boiled again. This typical peasant dish was made to last a whole week, but still seem fresh every day. A generous helping of extra virgin olive oil and black pepper give the final touches. It should be thick enough to eat with a fork. Mama Graziella and her husband have been at the heart of Santo Spirito for more than 50 years, and now Andrea is happy to carry on the tradition. There’s nothing tastier than fresh bread and a dash of olive oil. At the Mercato Centrale, Thomas Kolb runs a stall entirely dedicated to the liquid gold. – [Narrator] Olive oil from Tuscany has a slightly spicy, bitter taste, but the flavor varies depending on how it’s made and where the olives are grown. Not far from the Mercato Centrale, some of Tuscany’s best-known olives grow on the slopes of the Fiesole hills. The Maiano Estate has been home to Tuscan nobility since the 13th century. Today it’s still owned by Countess Lucrezia Miari Fulcis, one of the royal Corisini family. The countess’s young grandson, Tommaso, is responsible for processing the olives. The best quality organic olives must be pressed as soon as they have been harvested.
Once we’ve got two or 300 kilos, start bringing it over to the press. We’ll have to do a few trips. Good, let’s get started then. – [Narrator] The sooner the olives are pressed, the better the quality of oil they produce. The method known as cold extraction, or first cold press, ensures the olive oil is tangy and not too sweet. – [Narrator] The initial pressing produces a pulp, also known as olive cake. This is pressed once more at low temperature to extract the oil. – [Narrator] Thomas has left his market stall to sample the first pressing of the season. It’s the only way he can judge how good next year’s oil will be. – [Narrator] Harvesting and pressing on the same day means Tommaso gets the best possible flavor out of his olives. As night falls, darkness puts a stop to the day’s harvesting. The nets are gathered up and the olives taken to the press. Tomorrow morning, the whole timeless rhythm will begin again. Each morning near the market, a woman can be seen pushing a small handcart loaded with vegetables. It’s hard to believe this humble stall is one of Florence’s most revered institutions. For many residents, it’s more important than the Uffizi Gallery or the city’s magnificent cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. Beatrice Trambusti’s lampredotto stall
Is named after her two dogs, Lupin and Margo. – [Narrator] Lampredotto used to be served on sheets of paper. It was considered a pauper’s food made from leftovers. – [Narrator] The pungent purple lampredotto is made from cow’s stomach, served on a bread roll called a rosetta. – [Narrator] Most Italians have never tried lampredotto, although the citizens of Florence love it. Foreign visitors are fascinated by it, and sometimes disgusted. Beatrice’s lampredotto stall is a fixture outside the Mercato Centrale. She’s learned how to chat with tourists from all over the world. (speaking in foreign language). – [Narrator] This unique Tuscan street food is delicious seasoned with salt and pepper and topped with parsley, salsa verde, or hot chili sauce. – [Beatrice] Okay. Very good. Grazie. – [Narrator] The lampredotto is prepared and cooked in a special tripe facility. It’s not a place for the squeamish, especially if you’re not a tripe fan. – [Narrator] Tiziano Trapani is a genuine trippaio, or tripe master. He’s one of the few experts left who know how to prepare tripe and offal. – [Narrator] Tiziano can tell if the tripe has been cooked for long enough by smell and touch. – [Narrator] The tripe is brushed to remove any remaining impurities.
Finally, the fat is separated from the lean meat before it’s plunged into cold water to rest. Only now is the tripe ready to be sold on the market. – [Narrator] The tripe is delivered early in the morning. After years of supplying other stalls, Tiziano took the plunge and opened his own.
Not just any stall, the most elegant in the whole Mercato Centrale. The old Carocci stall retains the original wood and marble, dating back to 1870. Tiziano still supplies most of the tripe sellers in the city, and this stall is a shop window for all his different products. Even though Tiziano’s stall only sells raw tripe and offal, it’s still one of the biggest tourist attractions in the market. Tuscany’s mild climate and varied landscape are ideal for cultivating a wide range of fruit and vegetables. Among the best-known is the Certaldo red onion, praised by the likes of Leonardo da Vinci, Giovanni Boccaccio, and Catherine de Medici. In the fields surrounding the medieval town of Certaldo, between Florence and Sienna,
The end of summer marks the start of the onion harvest. Once lifted, the onions are left to dry in the fields. In fact, the local name for them is dry onions. After a few days, they’re taken to the farmhouse and stored in dark, cool rooms until they’re ready for market. – [Narrator] Gian Marco Mazzanti is an expert and writer about the food and culinary traditions of Tuscany. He’s also a restaurant critic for the slow food movement. – Grazie. – Ciao. – [Narrator] He knows where, when, and how the region’s best food is produced. – [Narrator] He loves to rediscover and experiment with old recipes to keep centuries-old tastes and traditional produce alive. – [Narrator] Gian Marco now has all the ingredients he needs to recreate the old recipe he discovered in the library, and he’s invited some friends round to share it. The first job is to prepare the sweet, juicy Certaldo onions, which are the main ingredient of the dish. – [Narrator] Gian Marco fries the sliced onions in olive oil, then adds one of his customary personal touches. – [Narrator] The cipollata is ready in less than an hour. Just before serving, Gian Marco adds an unusual ingredient from the old recipe book. – [Narrator] Gian Marco’s guests always look forward to dinner. There’s usually something surprising on the menu. – [Narrator] The crispy flatbread known as schiacciata is a staple of traditional Tuscan food. Unlike the local white bread, which is made without salt, schiacciata is heavily salted. You’ll find it on the table at every meal: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Some like it plain and eat it instead of ordinary bread,
Others prefer it with cheese, ham, or other fillings. At the Mercato Centrale, schiacciata is sold just as it comes, fresh out of the oven. – [Narrator] Everyone agrees that the best steak in Italy comes from Florence. The Tuscan art of jointing and preparing meat goes back centuries, and butchers are still highly regarded. Alessandro Soderi represents the latest generation in the family butchers business, a Florentine institution stretching back 500 years. Meat is a family tradition.
It’s in our DNA. I’m the youngest of three generations working here. I took a degree but decided to go into the family business. I could have got another job, but this is my real passion. – [Narrator] Alessandro can usually be found working in the giant refrigerator at the back of the store.
This is where the meat is hung until it is really tender. – [Narrator] Real Florentine steaks only come from the sirloin. They should be cut thick and only grilled for a few minutes each side. – [Narrator] Alessandro knows that in business, you can’t stand still, so he’s decided to make some improvements. This mince will be used to make a traditional Tuscan delicacy, fried meatballs. He’s teamed up with a chef to open a stall on the upper floor of the market, serving the freshly cooked meatballs. – [Narrator] Even the simplest dishes work best when you use the finest ingredients. Marco’s meatballs are made with top-quality meat, bread, parsley, and Parmesan cheese, deep fried in boiling oil. Another traditional Florentine dish brought back to life. The 1960s brought competition from the supermarkets and the first floor of the market was forced to close. But following extensive renovation, it’s been successfully relaunched as a trendy eating venue where specially invited chefs cook speciality dishes in front of their hungry customers.
These days, the Mercato Centrale is the place to eat in Florence. Among those who have set up shop on the first floor is the world-famous French baker, David Bedu. He’s a true artist combining tradition with excellence. – [Narrator] David’s relationship with bread is almost spiritual, and baking is much more than just a job, it’s a vocation.
Kneading the dough gives energy to both the baker and the bread. To mark the opening of his bakery, David created a new type of bread called the San Lorenzo loaf. It’s a constant challenge to work with this particular variety of flour. – [Narrator] David’s customers expect bread
With a consistent look, smell, and taste, but that’s not easy using yeast from sweet raisin wine and this particular type of flour. – [Narrator] David’s search for the perfect flour took him back to the Tuscan countryside and back in time. To the southeast of Florence lies Casentino, where the gentle Tuscan slopes rise to meet the foothills of the Apennine Mountains. In the tiny medieval village of Castel San Niccolo, Andrea Grifoni’s mill has been in his family since 1696. – [Narrator] This really is a place where time stands still. – [Narrator] The old flour mill is powered by a complicated system of buckets and levers, like something invented by Leonardo da Vinci himself. The ancient mill machinery is cumbersome but efficient. All Andrea has to do is keep an eye on the timing. – [Narrator] Andrea’s flour isn’t as smooth or refined as commercial varieties, but it has a living, organic quality, loved by both miller and baker. 16 of the finest chefs and food producers in Italy have set up shop on the top floor of the Mercato Centrale. Tuscany is famed for its wide variety of prosciutto made from the finest pork. Fausto Savigni enjoys a well-deserved reputation as the very best in his field. – [Narrator] Fausto’s sweet, tender prosciutto
Is the very essence of Tuscany’s culinary tradition. Most of his meat, including salami, capocollo, or shoulder hame, fennel salami, and sausages come from the pigs he breeds himself. – [Narrator] Fausto comes from Pistoia, an hour’s drive west of Florence. Today he’s releasing some three-month-old piglets to roam free in the wild and to mature until they’re ready for market. – [Narrator] A few years ago, the famous breed of pigs called Cinta Senese was close to dying out. They need more space to roam and are not as big as some breeds, which is why not many people want to farm them commercially. – [Narrator] The pigs are free to roam and drink from the natural springs, and Fausto keeps a close eye on their health. – [Narrator] Years of working with the Cinta Sinese has taught Fausto that it’s best to let nature take its course. Gianni Migliorini is a familiar figure around the Mercato Centrale, but he doesn’t have a stall here. – [Narrator] He runs one of Florence’s last traditional vinerias, or wine bars. – [Narrator] The bar has remained virtually unchanged since Gianni’s grandfather established it in 1920, and since then it’s been passed down from father to son. – [Narrator] Gianni’s bar is one of the last places in Florence where you can get a traditional colazione, or mid-morning snack. He serves panini filled with whatever produce is on sale at the market. – [Narrator] People drop into Giovanni’s bar for a snack and a glass of wine. There’s always plenty of company and lively conversations. – [Narrator] Whatever the time or season, Florence’s ageless beauty is best appreciated over a perfect local dish, and where better to enjoy a traditional Tuscan mid-afternoon merenda than right outside the Mercato Centrale. Most people go for cantucci, or dry biscuits. They’re made with eggs, flour, water, and freshly chopped almonds, mixed into a dough, and baked. The sweet, dry biscuits date back to the 17th century, but they became really popular during the 1867 Paris World Expo. The baked rolls are cut diagonally to form the distinctively shaped biscuits. They go perfectly dipped into a glass of the sweet Tuscan dessert wine known as Vin Santo, or holy wine. A different taste for each hour of the day. The people of Florence take their food seriously. Here in the city center, the Mercato Centrale stands like a cathedral dedicated to the very best of Tuscan cuisine.
1 Comment
Another fascinating look into the food market scene. Thanks!