How to Make Fail-Proof Chicken Francese and Roasted Wings

Test cook Becky Hays cooks host Julia Collin Davison fail-proof Chicken Francese. Equipment expert Adam Ried reveals his top picks for air fryers and science expert Dan Souza demonstrates the science of persistent firmness. Finally, hosts Bridget Lancaster and Julia make Roasted and Glazed Chicken Wings.

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– [Presenter] Today on “America’s Test Kitchen,” Becky makes Julia chicken Francese, Adam reveals his top picks for air fryers, Dan demonstrates the science of persistent firmness, and Julia makes Bridget roasted and glazed chicken wings. It’s all coming up right here, on “America’s Test Kitchen.” – Chicken Francese is something I’m very familiar with, having grown up in the Flower City, Rochester, New York, where the dish originated at a restaurant called the Brown Derby. And today, Becky’s gonna show me how she makes her version. – That’s right.

So the tradition of Francese means to take a piece of food, dip it in flour and then egg, then pan fry it, and serve it with a lemony beurre blanc sauce. – And it’s delicious. – It is, it’s really good. Kind of a retro recipe, but we’ve modernized it a bit

So that the flavor’s a little bit more complex, it’s a little bit easier to make, and it’s also a little bit more economical. – Great. – So, let’s start with the chicken. – Mm-hmm. – I have four six to eight-ounce breasts, and I’ve prepped three of them already. We’ll do the last one.

So the first thing we wanna do is we wanna separate the thicker end of the breasts from the thinner end like this, and I’m gonna cut this thicker part in half horizontally. So now, we have three even sized pieces, and I’m just gonna pound them down a little bit.

So I wanna pound these 1/4-inch thick. And the key to pounding is don’t use too much effort, let the pounder do the work. – You just wanna encourage it. – That’s right, (laughing) persuade it. There we go. Our chicken’s ready. I’m going to season it with two teaspoons of salt. – [Julia Collin Davison] Mmm! – We want the salt to penetrate all the way through the meat, help hold in moisture, and of course season it. And 1/2 teaspoon of pepper. We’ll let this sit four 15 minutes.

I’m gonna go wash my hands, and then we’ll come back and continue. – [Julia Collin Davison] Great. – It’s been 15 minutes, so let’s keep going with our chicken. I have 3/4 cup of flour here. I’m gonna work with four pieces at a time. And we’ll just coat each side in flour,

Put them onto a wire rack. And I didn’t need to season the flour, that chicken is beautifully seasoned, so it’s just plain old flour. Now, we’ll just keep going until we’ve got all the pieces coated. Alright, I floured all the chickens, so it’s time to fry them up. – Mmm.

– I have 1/3 of a cup of olive oil heating over medium-high heat in a skillet here. And I’m going to add 1/3 of a cup of vegetable oil. While that heats up, we’ll prepare our eggs. I have three large eggs here. I’m gonna add two tablespoons of water.

That’s gonna dilute the protein so that they don’t coagulate and turn tough when we cook the eggs, it’ll have a nice tender coating. Alright, our oil looks pretty good there. So I’m gonna work with four pieces of chicken at a time, and I’m gonna put them from the flour into the egg.

So, let the excess egg drip off. I’m gonna turn that down to medium heat. So we’re gonna cook these about two minutes per side. We want them to get nice and golden. Alright, it’s been two minutes, let’s see what’s goin’ on here. – [Julia Collin Davison] Ooh! – That looks lovely. Just want like a nice light golden brown.

– [Julia Collin Davison] Beautiful! – Yeah, ooh. So we’ll give ’em another two minutes on this side. Okay, it’s been another two minutes, so let’s just take a peek, see how they look. Oh, that looks gorgeous. – [Julia Collin Davison] Oh, beautiful. – Very nice, right? – Those look perfect, Becky,

Perfect. – Ooh. Okay, I’ll cook the rest of the cutlets. And will you put these in a 200 degree oven to keep warm? – [Julia Collin Davison] You bet. – Alright, all of the cutlets are in the oven, so I’m gonna do a nice little lemon garnish

To go on top of the dish. – Mm-hmm. – I dumped out all the oil and wiped it out. I’m gonna start by putting a tablespoon of butter into my skillet here. – [Julia Collin Davison] Makes sense. – So let that melt a little bit. And now, we’re gonna come over,

And we’re gonna use all parts of the lemon in the dish. So I’m gonna start by zesting just half of it, just one side of it. I’m using a rasp grater, and I don’t wanna get any of the white pith, I just want the yellow part.

And I need just a teaspoon, so that should do it. – [Julia Collin Davison] Perfect. – There we go. Alright now, I’m going to cut the lemon in half and I’m gonna take the part that I just zested and I’m gonna get juice outta there. I want two tablespoons of juice.

So I’ve got about two tablespoons of juice there. And now, we still have this beautiful half of lemon with the peel still on. And I’m gonna cut this into four 1/4-inch slices. So we have our butter heating up over medium heat, and I’m gonna put these lemon slices in.

And we’re gonna cook these for about three minutes until they get nice and browned on both sides. – Mm-hmm. – And they’re going to really develop some nice complexity. – [Julia Collin Davison] And they look pretty. – Oh yeah, this is gonna be a beautiful garnish. Okay, it’s been three minutes.

Our lemon slices look gorgeous here. – I love that smell. – Look at that. – Yeah! Oh, they’re beautifully caramelized, Becky. – That’s gonna be such a nice garnish. – Mm-hmm, it adds such complexity to an otherwise simple pan sauce. – That’s right. So now, let’s keep going with that sauce.

I have a teaspoon of minced garlic. Gonna saute that for a minute until you start to get that smell, that’s when you know it’s time to move on. Then, I have 1/3 of a cup of dry white wine. And we want that to evaporate almost completely. Alright, I’ve got the heat on medium-high, and we’re gonna really scrape up all those brown bits because that has so much flavor. – Mm-hmm. – Okay, you can see the wine is almost fully evaporated. I’m adding a cup and 1/2 of chicken broth.

And I want this to reduce down to exactly 2/3 of a cup. I’m actually gonna measure it as we go along here ’cause I wanna hit that 2/3 exactly. That’s gonna take six to eight minutes. – Okay. – Alright, so while that simmers away,

I’m gonna make a quick thickener for the pan sauce. – Okay. – Now, traditionally, you know, old school recipes would call for making a beurre meuniere. – Mm-hmm. – That’s where you take flour and mash with butter into kind of a paste. – Mm-hmm, yup. – We’re doing something a little bit different.

We’re taking three tablespoons of cubed cold butter, a teaspoon of flour. And I’m just gonna coat those butter cubes in flour, just tossing them in there. And this, we found thickens the sauce beautifully, gives it a really nice velvety consistency. And it’s easier to do than a traditional beurre meuniere.

Okay, so we’ll let our sauce go for about six/eight minutes, and then we’ll come back. – Okay. – Alright, our cutlets are out of the oven. The sauce is just about done reducing, I think. – Mm-hmm. – So I’m just gonna do a couple last minute things here.

I’m gonna cut our beautiful lemon slices in half, and I’ll just put these aside for a garnish. Alright, let’s measure the sauce and see how much we have. Remember, we want exactly 2/3 of a cup. And it’s fine to measure this once or twice while you’re cooking

To make sure you’ve got it right. – [Julia Collin Davison] Nice job. (laughing) – Pretty good, right? – Yeah. – The only way to know is to check. So check, done. Now, I’m gonna turn the heat down to low and I’m adding my teaspoon of lemon zest. And I’m waiting to add these at the end because I wanna preserve all their beautiful volatile oils. Our two tablespoons of lemon juice. And now, I’m gonna slowly whisk in our butter cubes. So just a couple at a time. It’s gonna take a minute and 1/2, or two minutes, and we’re gonna get a nice velvety consistency. Alright, you see how beautifully that thickened up? It has the consistency of heavy cream. – Yeah. – Perfect.

– It has a perfect consistency. – Yeah, it’s lovely. I’m gonna add two tablespoons of parsley just to finish it off. I’m gonna kill the heat. I’m just gonna give this a quick taste, I wanna make sure it’s perfect for you. – Yeah, I did set the bar a little high, saying I was from Rochester. – I know, I’m nervous. Mmm, I don’t need to be nervous. – Nope. – It’s perfect. Here’s our lemon slices, I’m gonna arrange those on top. Alright, I’m just gonna drizzle the sauce right on top here.

– [Julia Collin Davison] That’s exactly what it looks like. – [Becky Hays] Oh, I did it right? – [Julia Collin Davison] Yeah, nailed it! – [Becky Hays] Yay! – [Julia Collin Davison] Ooh Becky, I love how that looks. – [Becky Hays] Oh, I’m so happy you’re excited to eat it.

– [Julia Collin Davison] Yeah. – [Becky Hays] I’m gonna make sure you get a nice piece of lemon. – [Julia Collin Davison] Yeah, eating those caramelized pieces of lemon is just delicious. – Mmm, how good does that look? Oh my gosh. – [Julia Collin Davison] Restaurant worthy. Becky, this is beautiful.

– [Becky Hays] Thank you. – Ooh. – Mmm. – Mm-hmm. You nailed the coating. It’s on the edge between a crumb coating and an egg coating. It’s not flabby, it has a little crisp around the edges. But it tastes like egg, and it’s nice and thin. – Yeah, it’s so thin and tender.

– Mm-hmm. – And then you really get all that lemon complexity, you get the acidity, you get the slight bitterness that’s really nice. – Mm-hmm. The white wine coming through. – [Becky Hays] Yeah. – [Julia Collin Davison] A little bit of garlic. – [Becky Hays] Mm-hmm.

– I haven’t seen a lot of recipes that serve it with these caramelized lemons. That is a real trick. – You’re eating the lemon, right? You wanna make sure eat that. – Absolutely. – That’s not just a garnish, that’s for eating. – [Julia Collin Davison] Yeah,

It’s along the lines of a preserved lemon, you can eat the whole thing. – [Becky Hays] Mm-hmm. – Becky, you nailed it. – Aw, thank you. – Thank you. – You’re welcome. – If you wanna make this Flower City favorite, start by cutting boneless skinless chicken breasts into cutlets.

Dilute the egg with a little water for a thin coating. Make a punchy lemon sauce and thicken it with flour-coated cubes of butter. From “America’s Test Kitchen,” a perfect recipe for chicken Francese. Really, you did the city proud. – (laughing) Glad to hear it. – Mmm! – At “America’s Test Kitchen,”

Recipe development is serious business. – Head over to americastestkitchen.com, unlock 14,000 expert developed recipes and 8,000 unbiased product reviews, all rigorously tested by our team. – Access every episode of every season of your favorite cooking shows. That’s 38 seasons of inspiration. – And with the ATK Members app,

You’ll have 30 years of expertise at your fingertips, anywhere, anytime. Join us and become a smarter cook. – Start your free all-access trial membership, at americastestkitchen.com today. – Air fryers, people tell me that they love them, but do they really fry air? Hmm. Let’s check in with Adam (laughing) and find out what these things can do. – People do love their air fryers and we get the enthusiasm because they’re good little devices.

They do not fry food in the sense of deep frying, where you have a lot of oil that is transmitting heat to the food and giving it a gorgeous brown crust. These obviously use air to fry the food. It browns food quickly, and with a lot less oil and mess than deep frying.

This is an update of an existing testing, so we added a few new models. We had a total of 16 different models, with a price range from $60 to $220. – [Bridget Lancaster] Big range. – Big range. They come in three different styles, which have to do with access.

This is the first type. This is the drawer. – [Bridget Lancaster] Oh, okay. – See? – Yup. – Open the drawer, nothin’ shady in there. – It should be full of fried chicken, but that’s okay. – Here, why don’t you open this one? That’s sort of an oven type.

It’s got an oven door and it’s got multiple racks in there. – Got it. – And then R2-D2 at the end- – Oh yeah. – That white one. That’s the flip-top type. – This is the Stanley Kubrick air fryer model here. – (laughing) Exactly. Our testers vastly preferred the drawer type.

It was much easier to access for both the food and for cleaning. – [Bridget Lancaster] Okay. – Let’s start with capacity ’cause there was a wide range, about three quarts to 11 and 1/2 quarts. Some of the ones that were a little smaller only cooked enough food for two people.

And that’s sort of a drawback, sometimes you wanna cook for more than two. However, we also found that a large stated capacity didn’t necessarily mean they did a good job cooking more food. – Interesting. – The food cooks best if it’s in a single layer. This oven model with the multiple racks

Did a fine job cooking chicken cutlets on one rack, just for two people. But when you doubled that up and did a couple more cutlets on a second rack, the airflow got blocked a little bit and they cooked unevenly. – Right, it’s convection. – It’s convection, exactly. – So we need that circulation.

Okay. – Some of the interiors were non-stick coated and testers thought that was a good idea, they were easier to clean. These don’t get hot enough for the non-stick to really vaporize or for them to throw off fumes, so that’s not an issue. There are a few features

Regardless of the type that you wanna look for. One is an easy, clear interface that’s digital. Like the controls, you just want them to be intuitive. You don’t want a like a degree in rocket science to operate your air fryer. – We’re not launching anything, despite this looking like we are.

– (laughing) Exactly. In order for things to cook as evenly as possible, you have to go in and sometimes shake around the french fries or turnover a chicken cutlet or something. So having a timer that pauses automatically when you open it and then starts up again when you close it is super helpful.

Also, having an auto shutoff is really helpful. – Yeah. (laughing) – So if you’re not there to take the food out the second it’s done, it doesn’t languish and overcook at all. – Okay. – This one is the overall winner. It’s the Instant Vortex Plus six-quart Air Fryer. It’s $120.

It made great food. It has the drawer type access that we like, it’s got plenty of surface area for cooking. It was easy to clean, easy to access. This is a good unit. Or you can go for the best buy, which is a lot less money, it’s $75.

That’s the GoWISE 3.7-quart seven-in-one air fryer. A little smaller, the capacity isn’t quite as big. But, it’s got that drawer style access that we really liked. It doesn’t cook as much food as the overall winner, but it did a good job cooking when it does cook.

– There ya go, a great air fryer for every budget. And if you wanna get the winner, it’s the Instant Vortex Plus six-quart Air Fryer. It runs about $120. Or the best buy is the GoWISE USA 3.7-quart seven-in-one air fryer, and it retails for about $75.

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– Yes, there’s some terrible choices, but there are also some amazing choices. – We’ve spilled all of our secrets and included our insider notes alongside each recipe. – [Julia Collin Davison] Plus, there’s a handy shopping guide so you know exactly what to grab when you’re at the store. – And of course, it makes an excellent gift. Get your copy today at americastestkitchen.com. – Joe and I love carrots, and I have a couple here. Now, both of them have been boiled for two hours. They look the same, but this one was first dunked in a bath of calcium hydroxide. And Joe is gonna try each. Joe, why don’t you start with that one?

So that carrot is silky tender, completely cooked all the way through. Two hours has rendered it really soft, maybe even a little bit mushy. Great, why don’t you try this one? Now, this carrot, while really nice inside, super tender and cooked through, is pretty leathery and unpleasant to eat

Because of the outside is so tough. How is it possible for a carrot to be essentially raw on the outside and cooked within? The calcium dunk allow the pectin at the surface of the carrot to cross-link, making it very resistant to softening. Scientists call this “persistent firmness.”

We take advantage of this cross-linking when making pickles by adding calcium to the pickling liquid. But there’s another way to make some fruits and vegetables remain firm, heating them to a moderate temperature and holding them there for 20 to 30 minutes so that enzymes naturally present in the fruit or vegetables

Can alter cell wall pectin and increase that cross-linking. This is especially helpful when baking with apples. Too often, apples turn to applesauce when baked into pies and tarts. To prevent that, simply microwave apple slices on high power until their edges turn translucent, about 10 minutes, and then let them cool for 30 minutes.

Incorporated into a pie, tart, or cake, the apples will retain their shape and a hint of fresh crispness. At “Cook’s Illustrated,” we’re food nerds. That’s why every recipe we develop involves research, cooking science, and rigorous testing by our team of expert test cooks before being tested by our dedicated community of 40,000 home cooks. Only the highest rated recipes earn a place in our award-winning magazine.

Every issue features our latest recipes and discoveries, cooking tips, and equipment and ingredient reviews. Our step-by-step photos and hand-drawn illustrations show you exactly how to succeed. What you won’t see, even a single page of advertising. We’ve worked for home cooks like you for over 30 years.

So, are you ready to become the best cook you know? Subscribe to “Cooks Illustrated” magazine, at cooksillustrated.com today. – The rule in my house is that the person who roasts the chicken gets to eat the wings. I love this part of the bird, it’s my favorite, but I’m pretty sure that my kids have no idea what a chicken wing even looks like. So Julia’s here, and she’s gonna show me a great recipe that will allow me to share some roasted chicken wing love. – Yes. Now, I’m pretty sure you made up that rule, Bridget’s Rule. – I’m pretty sure you’re right. – (laughing) So this is four pounds of wings,

And we’re gonna roast ’em like a chicken so that they have crisp skin on the outside, tender on the inside. And the most surprising thing is you can’t just throw all the wings into a 400-degree oven and expect them to turn out roasted. We found you have to use a few tricks.

– Okay. – So first up, the wings. I said four pounds, I meant four pounds. Your kids will definitely know wings after this recipe. – (laughing) Great ’cause that looks like a lot more than the two that I steal off the bird. – (laughing) So, a couple ways. Sometimes you buy wings

And they’re already separated for you. – Right. – But if they’re whole, you really do wanna cut them down into the three parts. That’s the wing tip, the flat, and the drumette. And really pretty easy, there’s a joint right there between each part, and if you find it just right,

Your knife will slide right on through. This recipe will actually use the wing tip, so I’m including them here. But if you buy them already separated and there are no wing tips, no big deal, the recipe still works. They’re pretty wet, we wanna dry them off.

That’s why this baking sheet is lined with paper towels, to get off any excess moisture. Alright, into the bowl all the wings go, using the paper towel as a sling. – [Bridget Lancaster] Nice. – A little bit of oil, just a tablespoon of vegetable oil.

A little bit of salt, a tablespoon of kosher salt. And a teaspoon of ground pepper. Just wanna get in there with your hands, toss ’em all together, and make sure everything’s well coated. Now, in front of you is part of the magic of this recipe.

That is a rimmed baking sheet obviously, greased with oil, and then lined with parchment. So the parchment allows the wings to brown, but prevents them from sticking to the metal. – Great, great. – So, we’re gonna put these wings on the tray and I’m gonna tell you another trick.

Two parts to the wings, the drumettes and the flats. We’re gonna put them on different parts of the tray because the heat really comes in from the outside. – Right. – So we’re putting the thicker pieces of meat near the outside where it’s hotter. – [Bridget Lancaster] Where it’s hotter. – That’s it.

So we’re gonna line the drums up on the outside. The flats are gonna go in rows down the middle. And notice, I’m laying the flat curved side down. This is the fattier side. You want that pressed into the pan so it renders. Alright, now any spaces left on the tray,

You can fill in with the wing tips. They’re just gonna lend their flavor and juices to the rest of the wings as everything roasts. One last trick before we put these in the oven is that we’re gonna use a second baking sheet to weigh down the wings,

Really press them into the pan to help the browning. But, we don’t want the wings to stick to the pan, we did that already. So we’re gonna put another sheet of parchment on top and we’ll put another baking sheet on top, press it down,

So you get all the browning with none of the sticking. This is the key to the recipe. – Does this transfer heat as well? – It does. – That’s fantastic. – Yeah, so into a 400-degree oven we’re going. We have the rack on the lowest level right now.

We’re gonna roast these for 45 minutes. That lowest rack, it’s really gonna concentrate the heat onto the bottom of the pan. Ah, smells like roast chicken, doesn’t it? – [Bridget Lancaster] It smells… Well, it is roast chicken! – Alright, if you could please turn on the broiler for me please? – You bet. – Now I wanna show you. (laughing) You can see a little bit of browning has happened on the top. We’re gonna finish them under the broiler, obviously, which is why I had to turn on the broiler. That’ll help give them nice and crisp. But I also wanna show you all the liquid in the bottom of the pan. Yeah, that is pure chicken flavor and we don’t wanna lose that, but we wanna get rid of it before we put it under the broiler to help with the browning. So I’m gonna drain it off into this fat separator. It should be about 1/2 a cup.

– [Bridget Lancaster] I like that you’re usin’ the two pans, that makes total sense. – Right? It held the chicken wings in place. Look at all that flavor. We’re gonna let that settle for a little bit, let the fat separate to the top and the juices to the bottom.

Meanwhile, let’s take a closer look at these wings. Et voila. – [Bridget Lancaster] Mm-mmm! – Alright, so I’m gonna flip ’em over before they go under the broiler. And now’s the time to get rid of any of those wing tips. The smell, it just smells so good.

– [Bridget Lancaster] It’s pure roast chicken. – Mm-hmm. Discarding all those wing tips, I think I got ’em all. So these, I never throw these out. These go into the freezer and they go into my next pot of chicken broth. They add a lovely roasted flavor. – Gorgeous. – Now…

Oh look, see, the juices are already separated. So what I’m gonna do is I’m gonna drain the juices right into a sauce pan. Bloop. Alright, leave the fat behind, that schmolt will not go to waste in either of our houses. – No way! – Alright, so this juice, pure flavor, gonna reduce it down over medium heat for six to eight minutes, until it’s two to three tablespoons and it’s nice and syrupy. I’m gonna pop these under the broiler for six to eight minutes. You can keep your eye on that

While I return these to the oven. – I’ll keep both. – Ooh, I think you’re gonna like these, Bridget. (gasping) Yes. – [Bridget Lancaster] Ooh, hello! Gorgeous! – (laughing) Well, they’re evenly browned. Also, I rotated the pan halfway through ’cause broilers can be inconsistent. Now for the chicken glaze. This is what I think is the most brilliant part of the recipe,

This chickeny glaze right here. Pure roast chicken flavor, no sauce, just the sauce the chicken made itself. – [Bridget Lancaster] Now, nobody can do roast chicken like Julia. This is absolutely true, she is the queen of roast chicken. – I love roast chicken. – [Bridget Lancaster] The empress, the goddess of roast chicken.

– I make it a lot, that’s for sure. – [Bridget Lancaster] Yes. That’s nothing short of spectacular. – [Julia Collin Davison] Your kids are finally gonna learn what a wing tastes like. – (laughing) Well, maybe. – Alright, I’m gonna give you some flats ’cause I know they’re your favorite. I’m also gonna give you a drumette because they’re on the outside and they taste so good. – Well, this might also solve my problem of not liking the drumettes as much because I really feel like a lotta the times,

They don’t render enough. Alright, I’m gonna go into the drumette first. – [Julia Collin Davison] Alright. – Mmm, look at that, it’s really well rendered, beautifully crisp. – I love that roasted skin. – Mmm! Oh, you do not have to fry wings to get this crisp skin anymore. This is gorgeous. – Well, and I actually like the texture of the roasted meat. You know, it almost falls off the bone.

– A little nibble of the flat, which is beautifully browned. – [Julia Collin Davison] Mm-hmm. – Mmm. – (laughing) I know, I know, it is the best chicken wing flat you’ve ever had. – Oh my gosh. – [Julia Collin Davison] Right? – Well I thank you, and my children thank you. You’re gonna thank her too because you want to make these beautiful wings. And it starts by arranging the wings with their thicker parts around the outside of the pan. Then, roast the wings between two baking sheets and finish under the broiler. And don’t forget to brush those wings with that chickeny glaze.

So from “America’s Test Kitchen,” roasted and glazed chicken wings. You can get this recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with product reviews and select episodes. Those are all on our website, americastestkitchen.com/tv. I really thought I was gonna come back here and that’d be gone. – (laughing) It was this close. – I’ve seen you eat some wings, you’ve seen me eat some wings. – Shh. We hope you enjoyed this video as much as we enjoyed making it. – Don’t forget to hit that Like button

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To over 14,000 of our “Test Kitchen” recipes and 8,000 product reviews, you’ll have everything you need to cook and learn. – So I ask, what are you waiting for? – (laughing) Let’s make something great together.