Sartù di Riso: la ricetta originale napoletana di Antonio Sorrentino e Salvatore Giuliano

“Riso all’italiana” Episodio 3: Il Sartù di riso è un timballo strabordante e scultoreo, che racchiude al suo interno tanta storia e diverse ricette per comporre forse il più sontuoso piatto della cucina campana. Scopriamolo nella ricetta originale di due grandi maestri della tradizione napoletana, Antonio Sorrentino e Salvatore Giuliano di Mimì alla ferrovia.

In collaborazione con Così Com’è https://cosicome.it/

Scopri il libro “Riso all’italiana”, visita lo shop, naviga gli indici e acquista: https://shop.vertical.it/collections/books/products/riso-allitaliana

INGREDIENTI/INGREDIENTS
8 pax 
Teglia festonata con buco da 28/30 cm/Festooned tray with a hole 28/30 cm

Per il riso/For the rice
Riso carnaroli/Carnaroli rice 600 g Riso carnaroli 
Ragù Napoletano/Neapolitan ragout 40 kg
Brodo di carne/Meat stock 1 l
Parmigiano Reggiano 150 g 
Lardello allacciato/Lard cream 100 g

Per il Sartù/For the Sartù
Ragù Napoletano/Neapolitan ragout 1 kg
Polpette/Meatbalss 300 g
Piselli sgranati/Shelled peals 150 g
Fegatini di Pollo/Chicken livers 250 g
Salsiccia “cervellatina”/Pork sausage 300 g 
Provola affumicata/Provola smoked cheese 150 g 
Sugna/Sugna Lard 50 g 
Olio EVO/EVO oil 50 g 
Pecorino/Pecorino cheese 100 g
Parmigiano Reggiano 100 g
Marsala secco/Dry Marsala Liqueur qb/to taste
Pane grattugiato/Breadcrumbs qb/to taste
Uova sode/Hard-boiled eggs 3 
Sale e pepe/Salt and pepper qb/to taste
Alloro e basilico/Laurel and basil

Guarda anche il primo episodio della serie “Mantecare il risotto come un grande maestro – la tecnica dell’ONDA di Christian Costardi”: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANZTOPW_j7k&t=37s”

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Hi, friends of ItaliaSquisita! I am
Antonio Sorrentino.
Today we are in the
historic center of Naples.
With me is Salvatore
Giuliano from Mimì alla Ferrovia,
a place that is
more than historical.
– Thanks Antonio. Today
we are here at my
place, in Mimì alla
Ferrovia to present
you the recipe for
a dish of the great Neapolitan
tradition, rice sartù, a recipe
which has its foundations in
the 18th century, but which we still
prepare in our kitchens today
with great love.
We are ready to make the Neapolitan sartù.
Where do we start from? We start from
another legendary recipe that certainly
you have watched in one of
my videos from a few
years ago: the Neapolitan
ragù, and therefore today
let’s see Salvatore’s
Neapolitan ragù
because it is specifically
ragù for the
sartù and you make it a bit special.
– Let’s start
from the assumption that
in Naples, if you go to a
block of flats
made up of 10 people, 10
families – each family
will make the ragù in
their own way.
– Indeed, what is the best one?
The one from my place.
– It’s always mum’s one, it’s always
mum’s ragù. But in this case, since we
have to make rice sartù, so
we don’t need delicious meats,
large cuts, let’s
make a ragù which is
with pork, so we are also trying to
be a little pop, democratic
and popular.
– Guys, here we make Neapolitan cuisine,
the real one.
– So let’s start with
the fatty base to
sear the meat with
extra virgin olive oil. This is a
generous recipe in all its parts
so we have to be generous
especially with the condiments.
The oil is hot in fact you can already hear
how it is sizzling with the meat.
These pork ribs are awesome.
– As
Antonio was saying, the cuts of meat
shouldn’t be too small because
they have to release all of their
juices and flavors with a little time,
during the cooking.
Wonderful pork ribs,
a beautiful pork thigh, we’re going to
sear them over a high heat.
You can’t miss the pork rind,
you can also make beef chop.
Usually when you make a richer
ragù, on Sunday, in this case a
poor recipe, pork chop with pork
rind, pecorino, garlic and parsley.
– So, in the base and
we are lightly frying it.
Great. Let’s sear the
meat on the outside so that
later, during the cooking,
it releases all of
its juices and flavors. We let it cook
for about 10 minutes on high heat so that
we create this beautiful crust
on the outside. Every now and
then we turn them and
keep cooking. Look at this chop!
– So, in the meantime, as the
meat is searing, let’s make
all the ingredients
that will then be used
to fill our sartù,
and there
is quite a bit. We have our
‘cervellate’, meaning sausages with
a thin casing that I’m going to separate
so we can start cooking them.
I already have
a hot pan
where I am placing the sausages.
A bit of lard.
This is exactly the method that
was used in ancient times.
A bay leaf and a clove
of garlic. And then a drop of water. Here
we have and old style kitchen.
Beautiful. A drop of water.
This was exactly the method
that grandma used.
– This is exactly grandma’s recipe.
These are not really written recipes,
passed down, these are gestures that
we only have in our
memory and nothing else,
there is nothing written.
– And we let them
cook. In the meantime, we make
– Chicken livers are used in the recipe, so
much so that we actually took the
chicken livers to recreate the
original recipe.
– So, livers.
We wash them well
and cut them into cubes.
We’ll sear them lightly
and these will be
part of the filling inside our
sartù.
– The meat has reached a
perfect browning, I would say. The oil is
hot enough and let’s lower
the oil temperature
a little with an
always a very light element, since we
like to be light,
a nice touch of
lard, right?
– We have to explain:
lard, in Neapolitan cuisine
was the first fat used for all
preparations, extra virgin olive oil
was a rarity. – Antonio,
please, can you pass me
the next ingredient
of the recipe?
– Is this is what you’re
doing to me? Oh well, I’ll add
the onion and then add
the basil. Here you go.
– I’ll first add a little
tomato paste.
– Really?
– Tomato paste first. – Secrets…
– This is not a double concentrate,
but it is a fairly
delicate paste,
sweet, that helps
to give color to
our recipe, as well as a nice, intense
aroma. And now, the onion. – Some aroma
of garlic, don’t you add any in it?
– No, I don’t, our
ragù is just onion. Our ragù
has never seen garlic.
– It’s fine,
this is another peculiarity.
– The onion must cook very
quickly, so we cut it like this, chopped
finely.
– The onion must be coppery
– If from Montoro, even better.
– A couple
basil leaves, can we put some in
to start giving
it a little flavor?
– No, I don’t want to add basil.
Let’s turn the heat back up high and let it
brown. This is our base.
And now let’s move on to
the last element,
or the second to last one, let’s see.
– Just a little basil.
– I am doing this just for
you. I’m doing it only for you.
– Go on, break it by hand.
– Last element
before adding the tomato later is
some red wine. For red wine, we
clearly recommend using a
quality one. Being in Campania,
we are using an
Aglianico. In this case we add it to
the meat and our soffritto and
we let it evaporate slowly, allowing it
to lose the alcoholic part.
– So,
we remove the sausages
and let them
cool because we will need them
for the filling. We’ll cut them
later into rounds.
And look at this: the aroma, the crust.
Now, here in the same
pan, we’re adding the livers. We’ll add
them in the hot oil from the sausages.
A light searing.
– We’re frying the meatballs
in sunflower oil.
– This aroma of livers is incredible.
This is
the characteristic
of our sartù, old
style, that takes from the old recipe.
Then, as soon as they’re golden,
we add a bit of this dry Marsala.
And we let them cook gently.
In the meantime, here we have to
add some…
– Let’s start with the
tomato. The honor is yours.
– A puree of
delicate sweet tomato which makes it
makes it light, at the same time
characteristic. Do you add some
water to cook it?
– Yes, to cook it, because
the cooking is very slow and
it will also require
some water.
– We can still
get it from the fountain.
– Sure, but definitely
add it to the
jars and pour it one
by one. This is
a classic gesture
that is done in families.
– But above all because
we have to give the
time for the ragù
to cook because
we need at least 4
hours of cooking, even
if we have meat that is already
cooked, but to have a tasty sauce
since it is always
a popular recipe,
nothing is added.
– I usually add
half of the puree
that I put in so I have
have time to let it cook.
– Let’s do it
like the usual shaker.
Salt, we are
adding it in afterward.
We added all of
the elements for our ragù.
We bring it to the boil. As
soon as it reaches
the boil, we lower the flame
again to let it simmer
slowly. This simmer in Neapolitan
is said: ‘ha da pippia’ or
‘ha da pappulia’, as you like, clearly.
We’re keeping it
at a low temperature and cook it
for at least 4 hours so that
it reaches the taste we are looking for
for to then make our sartù.
– So, the livers are ready.
Let’s remove them
so they can cool.
So we place them here in our
small pan. Livers ready.
– Hot oil.
– Hot oil and we are adding the meatballs.
These are so small that
they’re done in a moment.
The oil must be right, because
if it is too strong, they
brown on the outside, but
they don’t cook on the inside.
– Quick cooking.
They remain crispy.
We made some meat broth,
we filtered it and
we will need the broth later
to soak and cook our rice.
Antonio, the ragù has reached a density
that in my opinion, is perfect. The fatty
part, this drizzle of oil. Can we add
the rice? We are ready.
So let’s make a
classic toasting of the rice without any
fat part as a base. We’re searing it
in a red hot pan.
– White rice, clearly.
– We use
white rice, classic Carnaroli rice,
that has a nice grain, stays whole.
– We’re ready.
We can already feel it
nice and hot.
And we can add some liquid.
So let’s raise the temperature once again.
And we’re going to add liquid to the rice
and we’re going to
cover it completely with
the broth, we then let it dry
a little at a time.
– We let it cook for
a few minutes like this.
– Half the
time with the broth,
halfway through cooking
we’re going to add ragù to the rice
so that it takes that nice flavour
you talked about before.
– Otherwise it sticks
because it’s clear
that our ragù has
a wonderful density, therefore
we have to add it in the second
cooking, so as to
have that creaminess and
the flavor that we talked about.
– Meanwhile the rice is cooking and it is
almost ready for
the second cooking.
– Speaking of rice,
you know that the
new book by ItaliaSquisita is out? ‘Rice,
the Italian way’.
Here are over 100
recipes from Italian
chefs, all about
rice, risotto, rice pans, among
them, my recipe for Neapolitan sartù.
The broth part has dried up.
Let’s add our ragù and we add the
ragù until the rice is cooked so as
to have flavor and creaminess.
– Antonio, as the rice is cooking,
we blanched the peas, just in
water for a few seconds. We keep
them nice and crunchy as we’re
adding them during the
creaming process.
We also prepared classic
hard-boiled eggs,
cutting them quite thin.
– So: meatballs, sausages,
livers, cheeses, basil. We have to
cut some provola-
– Of course.
– into cubes, as a part of string cheese.
Historically what was added was
fior di latte, but we will add
provola, because it will give
even more flavour
to our sartù.
– The rice is cooked, al dente
clearly, as it later needs another
baking in the oven. In this case,
instead of adding butter as the fat part,
we’re adding a fat part that is even more
tasty, that belongs even more to us,
a very high quality lard
clearly that we have practically
only blended, or as we say,
‘allacciato’, we made it into a cream.
– Can I taste?
– You have to!
– Delicious! Some basil leaves
that should never be missing
– Those must never be missing!
– And above all let’s mix
mix the two cheeses.
– Let’s make a mix of
cheeses: Parmigiano,
Roman pecorino,
and the peas that we just
blanched and stay nice and fresh.
Just like this.
We’re thickening it so as to bring out
all of the creaminess.
Nice and creamy.
– Perfect, I’d say.
– The color is what we wanted,
ragù, a nice contrasting color.
We let it rest
open like this so it
cools down. Let’s go back
to the dining room
to assemble our sartù.
Here we have this
table which is
wonderful. There is a scent
that you can’t
describe, it’s incredible.
And I’d move on
straight to assembly,
so let’s get started
directly with the
first phase, in which
we line the mold where then clearly
we are going to place it all.
This is exactly the
savarin, I would say it’s the
classic where we make
the Neapolitan baba as well.
It is precisely
the mold of the
festivities, the mold of the
Sundays. It was called this way
because it must be tall, the
taller the sides, the better.
Let’s add
some lard. Since we have used
very little seasoning until
now, we cover it in lard and add just
a little more to line
our mold. Let’s do it with
the help of a brush. We have this
lard that we kept out of the
refrigerator so that
it stays nice and
soft.
– I recommend to cover it well
because we also need it as a non-stick
coating, therefore on the entire
surface. This is also quite a
complicated surface we chose for ourselves.
– Indeed, therefore the brush. As you see,
Salvatore is coating it well because
then we have to take it
out of the mold. Second
passage, the breadcrumbs,
so that it gives us
the crunchiness on
the outside. Place it all around.
We turn it so it goes down all over
the mold part. We put a
a plate underneath the so
we can then take out
the excess. Up to the edge of
our mold to make it nice and tall. Using
the spatula, we begin to stick it.
It must not be too thick, therefore
let’s cover the outermost part
of the mold with rice. This is
an operation that seems, let’s say,
difficult. It is difficult on this
knurled mold, but on a
smooth mold it’s quite
simple. As you can see it has a
good consistency, so it is spreadable
– And creamy in its structure.
– But if it’s liquid, it doesn’t
stick and if it’s too hard you struggle
to spread it. This is just the right density.
I’d add a little more on the other side
So we can complete it on the wide part.
Then we line the central part of the hole.
– Do we start with the meat?
– Indeed, the meatballs
are going inside our ragù.
– We let them flavor.
– So we can use them
to fill and then
to decorate at the end.
– It also helps us
to give a little more
softness.
– First a thin layer of ragù.
We begin to fill with the cervellatine.
The livers,
there is still this
scent that releases of
bay leaf.
– I thought I was generous, but you beat me!
– It doesn’t hurt. This recipe is
abundant, generous.
– Very little egg, which
gives it this white color inside.
A few small pieces of
basil, to give it a little
scent.
– You are from the king of basil.
Smoked provola.
– We finish it with ragù and meatballs
before adding the cheeses.
We already prepared a mix of cheeses,
both pecorino and Parmigiano.
Let’s finish it.
– I’ll add the rice
– And you finish it.
This is a dish of patience, which
however makes us impatient!
These are dishes
that go really against
the current modern life, which is
always in a rush.
These are instead
dishes that have
to be waited for, that have to
to be made with gestures.
– We sealed it well, we compact it
so later, when we take it out of the oven,
we have the compactness
not to allow it
to open up. This, Salvatore, is the
first challenge: when we then
take it out, if everything opens,
we made the whole sartù wrong!
We finish it
with the mix of cheeses
and breadcrumbs,
so it creates that crust on top.
And we finish it with some drops
of lard, again.
It’s always a matter of
being consistent with what we have
done up to now.
– Our sartù is
stuffed, we are ready
and we can put it in the
oven.
– We bake it at 180°C for approximately
45 minutes.
– See you soon!
– Antonio, after cooking in the oven
we let it rest and
it is getting compact.
– A nice crust on top.
– Nice and crispy.
– The honor is yours!
– The honor is mine, oh, I see…
– You’re a bit older, so…
– Here I go.
We’re ready! One, two and three!
– I already hear a noise, it’s done!
Are you ready? It’s perfect. Look,
it came out perfect. We garnish it,
we finish the
garnish.
– We fill our small hole.
– How wonderful! May I?
– Of course! Always generous.
– Indeed. Cheese and some basil tops.
– Here is our traditional rice sartù.
– So wonderful! Of course
try and make it at home,
otherwise we’ll be
waiting for you at Mimì alla Ferrovia.
Antonio,
are we tasting this now?
– Of course!
– Let’s taste it!
– We have to, now! Look
at this! I would say it’s great,
it came out nice and
generous, the way we like it.
– Beautiful.
Crunchy on the outside
and very soft on the inside.
– Can we start?
– Yes, please! – See, the livers…
Oh my goodness!
– Can you feel this
softness and crunchiness
on the outside?
– And the taste… Home!
– This is hunger!
– This is real hunger! I’ll go on and eat.
– It’s delicious.
– Congratulations, Mr. Sorrentino,
great job, really. You’re great!
– Guys, greetings to you
and we look forward
to the next recipe on ItaliaSquisita!
– Bye guys, thank you! – Bye, everyone!