Drinking all the wine in Spain… featuring 1952 Berberana
Drinking all the wine in Spain… featuring 1952 Berberana
by CondorKhan
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CondorKhan
So we went to Spain, for the second time this year, a couple of weeks ago. It was everything I ever hoped it was, and I will continue going there as long as I can do it. Crossed out a few wine bucket list items while I was at it. Really, so much to talk about that I have a hard time knowing where to start, but I think I will begin with this:
We spent a night in Segovia and went to the legendary restaurant Jose Maria, where they have a deep cellar full of ancient wine at affordable prices.
Originally we wanted I think a 1948 Montecillo that they had for 99 euro, but the somm advised that the bottle didn’t look great and that we’d better try some other options. So they basically brought up a bunch of ancient bottles to our table, and we had our pick based on fill and condition. Pictured:
Gonzalo de Berceo Gran Reserva 1970 La Rioja Alta Bikaña NV (but positively ancient… 1960’s?) Marques de Murrieta Ygay Reserva 1921 Berberana Cosecha Especial 1952 Federico Paternina Ollauri Gran Reserva (can’t remember the year but it was OLD) And the weirdest of the bunch: Yago Blanco 1935 (WTF).
Based on fill, condition of the bottle and previous experience with old Berberana, we went with the 1952 Cosecha Especial, for 150 euro. Cork crumbled but the somm managed to get all of it out. Pours reddish brown, fully bricked, but still quite opaque. Aroma is to die for, honey, raisins, prune, leather. When the somm gave it a whiff, he whispered to himself “joder!”. I told him to bring a glass and help himself!
The palate was evolving constantly, rotating through honey, dried dates, tobacco, dark cherry, even cranberry. Tannins are gone but the acidity is 100% there, giving interest and structure. Acidity is the passport that took this wine to eternity. The juxtaposition of the fresh juicy acidity and the tertiary notes is really a prime example of why people age wines for decades.
Paired with what else, Segovia roast suckling pig. Absolutely visit Jose Maria when in Segovia. Next up (maybe) our visit to Haro, including Lopez de Heredia, Muga, La Rioja Alta and Cune And that’s just the tip of the iceberg.
2 Comments
So we went to Spain, for the second time this year, a couple of weeks ago. It was everything I ever hoped it was, and I will continue going there as long as I can do it.
Crossed out a few wine bucket list items while I was at it. Really, so much to talk about that I have a hard time knowing where to start, but I think I will begin with this:
We spent a night in Segovia and went to the legendary restaurant Jose Maria, where they have a deep cellar full of ancient wine at affordable prices.
Originally we wanted I think a 1948 Montecillo that they had for 99 euro, but the somm advised that the bottle didn’t look great and that we’d better try some other options. So they basically brought up a bunch of ancient bottles to our table, and we had our pick based on fill and condition.
Pictured:
Gonzalo de Berceo Gran Reserva 1970
La Rioja Alta Bikaña NV (but positively ancient… 1960’s?)
Marques de Murrieta Ygay Reserva 1921
Berberana Cosecha Especial 1952
Federico Paternina Ollauri Gran Reserva (can’t remember the year but it was OLD)
And the weirdest of the bunch: Yago Blanco 1935 (WTF).
Based on fill, condition of the bottle and previous experience with old Berberana, we went with the 1952 Cosecha Especial, for 150 euro.
Cork crumbled but the somm managed to get all of it out. Pours reddish brown, fully bricked, but still quite opaque.
Aroma is to die for, honey, raisins, prune, leather. When the somm gave it a whiff, he whispered to himself “joder!”. I told him to bring a glass and help himself!
The palate was evolving constantly, rotating through honey, dried dates, tobacco, dark cherry, even cranberry. Tannins are gone but the acidity is 100% there, giving interest and structure. Acidity is the passport that took this wine to eternity. The juxtaposition of the fresh juicy acidity and the tertiary notes is really a prime example of why people age wines for decades.
Paired with what else, Segovia roast suckling pig.
Absolutely visit Jose Maria when in Segovia.
Next up (maybe) our visit to Haro, including Lopez de Heredia, Muga, La Rioja Alta and Cune
And that’s just the tip of the iceberg.
Amazing!