The American who wishes to cook Chinese food at home must understand what the Chinese-food scholar Barbara Tropp calls the subliminal role of yin (that which is feminine, dark and yielding) and yang (that which is masculine, bright and hard).

In “The Chinese Banquet Cookbook” and “From the Earth: Chinese Vegetarian Cooking,” Eileen Yin-Fei Lo has a chatty way of putting the dishes in their context, making fun of what she refers to as all the “chop-chop-chop.”

For the novice who wishes to cook Chinese food on a cold day, when the body yearns for a little cultural exchange, Lo has a sensible suggestion, and one that couldn’t be more fashionable. Ergo, make soup.

Ingredients

The congee:

  • ½ cup white rice
  • ¼ cup glutinous rice
  • 8 ½ cups cold water
  • 1 large head Tientsin bok choy (Napa cabbage), stalks cut into 1/4-inch dice, leaves cut into large pieces
  • 2 teaspoons soy sauce
  • 1 ½ to 2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste Pinch of white pepper
  • 1 slice fresh ginger, 1/2 inch thick

The scallion oil:

  • ½ cup peanut oil
  • 3 scallions, cut into 3-inch pieces, white portions lightly smashed
  • Nutritional Information
    • Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)

      410 calories; 27 grams fat; 4 grams saturated fat; 12 grams monounsaturated fat; 8 grams polyunsaturated fat; 35 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams dietary fiber; 3 grams sugars; 6 grams protein; 1363 milligrams sodium

    • Note: Nutrient information is not available for all ingredients. Amount is based on available data.

4 to 6 servings

Preparation

  1. To make the congee, place both kinds of rice in a large pot. Wash the rice 3 times under water, rubbing between your hands. Drain.
  2. Return the rice to the pot, add the 8 1/2 cups water, cover and bring to a boil. Leave the lid open a crack. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally to prevent the rice from sticking to the bottom of the pot. Cook until the rice thickens almost to the consistency of porridge.
  3. Meanwhile, to make the scallion oil, heat a wok or heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the oil, then the scallions. Cook until the scallions turn brown, about 3 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve. Let cool to room temperature.
  4. About 7 minutes before the rice is completely cooked, add the bok choy stalks, soy sauce, salt, white pepper and ginger. Mix together thoroughly and bring the congee to a boil, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat, add the bok choy leaves and cook for 2 to 3 minutes longer. Turn off the heat, remove the ginger and add 2 to 3 tablespoons of the scallion oil, stirring it well into the mixture. Serve hot.

About 1 hour 45 minutes

Dining and Cooking