What Are Pasteurized Eggs, And How Do You Cook With Them?

I recently moved to rural Maine, and the very first item I put in my fridge was a carton of eggs dropped off by a kind new neighbor as a welcome gift. His backyard chickens are healthy and laying steadily, and I feel very grateful to have hit the egg jackpot during these times of painfully expensive eggflation and limited availability at the grocery store.

But I have to confess: I did do some poking around on the internet first to make sure I felt comfortable eating these unregulated eggs in this time of avian flu. In my reading, I learned that the risk of contracting avian flu from contaminated shell eggs is low, and further reduced when you fully cook the eggs so both their whites and yolks are firm. But if you, like me, prefer a runny yolk in your over-easy egg, you may wish to seek out pasteurized eggs as a safety measure.

What Are Pasteurized Eggs?

Pasteurization is the process of gently heating food to a particular temperature and holding it there for a specific amount of time to kill off pathogens — aka the bacteria and microbes in food that can make us sick. The process was invented by Louis Pasteur in 1864 and remains the basis for how many foods are treated for safety today. Milk is commonly pasteurized in the United States, but according to the USDA, “only 3% of the 74 billion fresh eggs produced in the United States each year are pasteurized.”

How are Eggs Pasteurized?

Traditionally, eggs have been pasteurized by submerging them in a warm water bath to raise their internal temperature to 130°F. This extra processing step takes about an hour and adds significantly to the cost of the eggs. Recently, however, scientists at the Agricultural Research Service developed a new way to pasteurize eggs using radio frequency (RF) waves, which promises to be three times faster than the hot water method and less damaging to the proteins in the egg white. The RF technology is still being refined and is not yet commercially available, so pasteurization of eggs via immersion in hot water remains the standard for now.

Why Pasteurize Eggs?

Though avian flu may be top of mind at the moment, the biggest food safety risk in consuming undercooked eggs is illness caused by salmonella bacteria. According to the USDA, “Salmonellosis, as the infection is known, can cause diarrhea, stomach cramps, and fever, and can sometimes be fatal. Infants, preschoolers, pregnant women, and the elderly are more susceptible, and pasteurized eggs are often marketed to nursing homes and other institutional kitchens.” Pasteurization destroys bacteria such as salmonella as well as viruses such as avian influenza so you can enjoy foods with raw or more gently cooked eggs such as mayonnaise, eggnog, or a soft-boiled egg without risk.

Where to Buy Pasteurized Eggs

Unfortunately, pasteurized shell eggs (not to be confused with “pasture-raised” eggs) are difficult to find at most grocery stores. Brands like A Good Egg are available in some areas and seeking to expand. At the store, look for egg cartons that include the word “pasteurized” on the label, and/or for a “P” stamped on each egg, indicating it was pasteurized.

Eggs out of their shells, however, called “egg products” by the USDA, are all required to be pasteurized for safety. These include products like cartons of liquid egg whites or liquid whole eggs, or powdered whole eggs or whites.

You may be tempted to try pasteurizing shell eggs on your own at home, but the USDA does not recommend it. Though methods abound online calling to use a sous vide immersion circulator or even the microwave to pasteurize eggs in their shells, they are not guaranteed to be safe. Without the precision equipment and constant monitoring that commercial pasteurization methods offer, you can’t be sure that the internal temperature of the egg has reached the target and has been held there properly for the correct amount of time.

Credit: Photo: Alex Lepe; Food Styling: Rachel Perlmutter Credit: Photo: Alex Lepe; Food Styling: Rachel Perlmutter

How to Cook With Pasteurized Eggs

Since water bath-pasteurized eggs have been gently heated, cooking with them can be a little different than with unpasteurized eggs. Though the eggs aren’t considered “cooked” during pasteurization, the heat from the water bath can cause the proteins in the egg whites to denature and coagulate. This causes the eggs to feel softer and have less “bite” when cooked. Pasteurized liquid egg whites are also very difficult to whip to stiff peaks, as you would when making meringues. Egg white powder or meringue powder (both pasteurized) are better to use here, or when making royal icing.

But if safety is a concern and achieving a firm texture doesn’t matter — perhaps you’re making a hollandaise sauce or a cocktail that includes egg whites — pasteurized eggs or egg products will work just fine. And if you’re fully cooking your eggs (without runny or jammy yolks) or baking with them, you can go ahead and use unpasteurized eggs without fear.

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