Spain sets a high standard for bar bites. There are finger foods, like olives and almonds. There are swirls of jamon, a savory cured meat. There’s pan con tomate, cured anchovies and boquerones (white anchovies marinated in vinegar), and conservas, pull-top tins of shellfish and other preserves. “These products are salty and full of umami, which helps the beverages shine even more,” Lopez says. “There’s actually an expression in Spanish: Que no te la den con queso, or “won’t get fooled with the cheese.” It means you can get a bad wine with cheese so the wine tastes better.”

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