Ever since we started watching Chef’s table, n/naka has always been a place we wanted to visit in Los Angeles. Given the small dining room and popularity, it’s just never worked out to go here. I’m in Los Angeles every so often for work but my wife would kill me if I dined her without her and we always seem to just miss the booking window.

We went on a whim for a trip and were able to get in on a cancellation. We were so excited to go. We had heard about them losing a star but we didn’t care, everything I’ve heard about this restaurant is pleasant.

We loved the dining room. You’re left looking for where the rest of the space is and you realize just how intimate a space it is. I don’t think there were even 10 tables. The redesign was simple and contemporary. It’s a beautiful, comfortable space and I think that’s maybe a good way to describe our entire evening as well.

Service was excellent. Everyone was very friendly and attentive. It was very warm service. You can tell that the chefs take care of the front of house. They seemed quite happy to be there.

The wine program I found to be good but not great. We chose the basic pairing without sake as that was a pretty big premium and we’re not massive sake people. We liked the wine pairings but after having Kato the next night, it maybe was such a tough comparison.

The food was excellent. When I say simple and comfortable, the preparation is anything but simple. The small details, particularly made with a knife, were incredibly complex. In terms of flavours, it wasn’t anything way out there or groundbreaking but we knew that going in. It’s Kaiseki which is so traditional as a rule of thumb and it’s definitely a departure from that but it’s still relatively true to its roots. Flavours are subtle and they let the ingredients really stand out on their own. Pacing was spot on. The kitchen was absolutely dialed.

Overall we are so glad we came. I’d definitely go back. As for the missing second star. I just don’t understand what warrants a second star these days. There is a wild range of what constitutes a one star and I just can’t put this in the same boat as most one stars. The space, service and food all tell me it’s a meal worth going out of your way to go to. The lack of wild innovation would make me feel that it probably isn’t a 3 star. I don’t envy the position of the people making these tough decisions but I just get so confused as to how this doesn’t fit with other two stars I’ve been to.

Anyways, if you were on the fence for a visit, I’d highly recommend if you can snag a table.

by ochief19

2 Comments

  1. balldem824

    Not being a hater but this looks extremely mid. If this was a kaiseki restaurant in Tokyo I’m not sure if it would be operational after a year or two.

    Their preparation is basic in terms of traditional Kaiseki and their sourcing of ingredients is not the best based on the sashimi pictures and sushi. The fact that they even serve sushi in the first place is extremely bizarre in a Kaiseki restaurant although it is more fusion.