“JouJou isn’t meant to feel overly serious or precious—it’s meant to feel lively, indulgent and fun, the kind of place where people come to celebrate and enjoy themselves,” says Barzelay and Booth. “That sense of playfulness carries through everything we do, from the food and cocktails to the design of the room and, especially, in the way we think about hospitality. We wanted the restaurant to feel energetic and welcoming—a place people are excited to return to again and again.”
Barzelay first developed a seafood-forward French restaurant menu in 2013 while searching for a location for Lazy Bear. The concept was shelved for well over a decade, but the chef is finally thrilled to bring it to fruition. “I was obsessed with the idea of using classic technique with no shortcuts, in a way that basically no one does anymore,” he says. “In general, proteins at JouJou are raw until you order them; we sauté them and baste with butter and aromatics, and rest them while we make and season pan sauces. It’s still the most delicious, unfussy way to cook. But it’s harder! It takes longer and it’s easy to screw things up if you’re busy, unfocused or aren’t super solid on your technique and palate.”
The menu features an extensive raw bar and three different-sized seafood towers, quintessential French soups, bistro favorites like mussels and sole meunière, and desserts such as tarte tatin and bananas Foster. Barzelay also touts the soups and salads. “The escargot toast is a delicious way of eating escargot, basically as garlic bread. Our charcuterie (currently chicken liver mousse and country paté) is incredible. And I’m really proud of the entrees, with vibrant flavors that sing with à la minute complexity.”
Colleen Booth and David Barzelay
A robust beverage program, led by Matteo Villano, rounds out the restaurant. There are 150 wines on the list, with a strong emphasis placed on small artisanal producers. Simone Mims crafted the cocktail menu that includes an elegant blend of gin and two types of vermouth in a namesake drink, The JouJou.
“I have always said I want our guests to use JouJou as a respite from adulthood,” explains Booth. “I would like diners to come in and feel a sense of relief of leaving all of their worries at the door, and embrace aspects of childhood that we don’t often allow ourselves anymore—those fantastical feelings of awe, wonder, curiosity and simple joy.” 65 Division St., joujousf.com
Dining and Cooking