Michael Cooper
Wine writer·New Zealand Listener·
2 Apr, 2026 05:04 PM3 mins to read
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The wine industry is undergoing rapid development to keep up with changing market trends . Photo / Getty Images
After gaining a doctorate in neurophysiology, John Forrest worked as a research scientist, then plunged into the wine industry. “I can express my affable, arty side much better now than when I was a scientist.” The first wine at Forrest Estate, in Marlborough, flowed in 1990.
Today, Forrest Estate
is still family-run. John’s wife, Brigid, is a medical doctor and their daughter, Beth, who has a master’s degree in oenology, is the general manager and winemaker.
John believes the wine industry is going through “rapidly changing and difficult times”. To meet the challenge, Forrest Estate has a three-part strategy. “First, we have kept our focus on making the best possible ‘classic’ varietal range … Second, we initiated a lower alcohol research and development programme 20 years ago after observing the positive response to our kabinett-styled [early harvested, light-bodied] riesling, especially from females.” Low alcohol wines now constitute over half of Forrest Estate’s sales.
Third, Forrest began exploring the potential of “alternative” grape varieties, such as albariño, arneis, petit manseng and grũner veltliner. Sales, he reports, are “booming”.
The Doctors’ Marlborough Riesling 2024
★★★★
Already drinking well, this crisp, vivacious wine is light-bodied, with vibrant, citrusy flavours, a gentle splash of sweetness and appetising acidity. Finely balanced and full of youthful energy, it’s likely to be at its best 2027+. (9% alc/vol) $18-$22
Forrest Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2025
★★★★½
Grown near Renwick in the Wairau Valley, this mouthfilling wine has vibrant passionfruit/lime flavours revealing very good intensity, ripeness and vigour. Slightly savoury notes add a touch of complexity, with a crisp, dry finish. (13% alc/vol) $22-$25
The Doctors’ Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2025
★★★
“A fun night out shouldn’t have to mean a long morning of regret,” says the back label on this lively, tangy wine, which has appley, lemony flavours, punchy and youthful, and firm acid spine. Although it lacks the body and ripe fruit flavours of the region’s classic sauvignon blancs, it is a very good example of the lower-alcohol style. (9.5% alc/vol) $20-$22
Forrest Marlborough Albariño 2025
★★★★★
A top example of this trendy Spanish and Portuguese variety. Mouthfilling and vibrantly fruity, it has generous stonefruit and spice flavours, a slight sweetness balanced by appetising acidity, and a finely balanced, long finish. Already delicious, it’s ageworthy, too. (13.5% alc/vol) $28
Wine of the week
Forrest Marlborough Chardonnay 2024
★★★★½
Showing surprising richness and complexity for a chardonnay in its price range, this weighty, finely textured wine has vibrant stonefruit flavours, mealy and biscuity notes adding complexity, and a very harmonious finish. Fine value. (13.5% alc/vol) $28
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