Yerord Mas

Chef Arthur Grigoryan’s new counter service spot in Burbank (set in a former donut shop) did not disappoint. The viral basturma brisket sandwich now comes with grand cru gruyere mornay sauce easily one of the most luxurious cheeses you could pair with cured and smoked meat. Fresh baked pita and crisp pickles balance it perfectly. The $38 price reflects the quality and craftsmanship this isn’t a Langer’s #19. The stuffed mussels were unlike anything I’ve had before. It felt good to eat with my hands and shovel out the spiced rice. The beef tartare with lettuce cups was excellent and so well seasoned it had me fully immersed in flavors I’ll keep thinking about. The spices that are imported from Syria and elsewhere almost give you a subtle feel good buzz. Next time I’ll try the poached chicken in yogurt with Aleppo pepper.

The real standout this visit was the Denver steak. Arthur’s take on steak au poivre rooted in classic technique but entirely his own is what makes this place so exciting to watch. Pickled red pepper and Armenian brandy take the dish to another level. My only regret was not having more bread to soak up the sauce. I overheard kebabs are coming once the weather cools down. It’s a no frills spot and the lighting is a bit bright, but it feels like the space will level up over time. From his parents’ backyard to a ghost kitchen to a restaurant, it’s an inspiring, very LA story.