Butterworth’s restaurant review: The food knows no party affiliation

So few restaurants make their own french fries, Butterworth’s in Washington deserves a shout-out for the paces its potatoes go through.

Using sliced Kennebec potatoes, chef-partner Bart Hutchins blanches and freezes them, then blanches and freezes them again before frying them in beef tallow, a fat enjoying 15 minutes of fame with the MAGA crowd and, honestly, discerning taste testers.