Graeter’s Review No. 11: Who would have thought we’d have a pair of dentists to thank for cotton candy? One helped invent “fairy floss” in 1897 ahead of its debut at the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair. And a second dentist coined the term cotton candy in 1921. Were they trying to bring in new business? I guess they did have some altruism in mind. They were aiming to create a less sugary treat than popular candy bars and caramel apples. Graeter’s pulls off a similar feat for us ice cream connoisseurs — bringing something more adult and balanced to a whimsical carnival flavor whose mere appearance is usually enough to have your teeth aching in an anticipatory sugar high. Cotton Candy ice cream falls into a category of sweet, colorful kiddie flavors I usually steer clear of like bubble gum and birthday cake. I had never tried a single one of these till Graeter’s tempted me with their Birthday Bash — a surprise winner. Could they do it again? Let’s scoop and find out.

What I liked: First off, the color. Some of these blue ice creams —from neon to smurf — I find unappetizing the moment the lid comes off. But this shade is paler, tilting to seafoam, like a lagoon or an inviting tiki drink. And the taste surprised me, too. Usually when you see these treats they are just labeled “cotton candy-flavored.” But what does that mean? I assume it’s some sort of artificial flavoring, but I wasn’t sure what to expect. I took a look online and was told most brands do blue raspberry and vanilla-strawberry for pink. I was a bit worried about another Blue Moon-like flavor (speaking of azure disappointments). But I didn’t taste any fruit. After a few bites, I picked up a toasted sugar flavor, maybe a hint of vanilla. The flavor it most reminded me also comes from Graeter’s: Creme Brûlée, which I tasted in their holiday pack. I had to look this up to be sure. The core flavor of their Cotton Candy is ethyl maltol — providing a caramelized sugar taste — and a little faux vanilla in the finish. For these reviews, I’ve been enjoying learning some of the science behind our favorite flavors. The Creme Brûlée relies on that same flavor molecule. So they are an interesting exercise in burnt sugar siblings — one fresher-faced, one who’s aged into some sophistication. For Cotton Candy, the molecule apparently mimics the smell of sugar being heated in a spinner, while in the Creme Brûlée it’s the step where that signature sugar crust is torched. What a crazy/fun tasting that could be! With Creme Brûlée, you get caramelized sugar bits, but here it’s some pink and purple sugar sparkle. That’s interesting background — well maybe only to me — but I will say that crunch takes it up a notch, adding a bit of aesthetic sparkle and textural interest against the signature French Pot texture (as usual, no complaints, only compliments, on the craft of their ice cream).

What could be better: After all that, do I really like this flavor? Not particularly, even though I think it’s really well done. I guess because I have no nostalgic link to cotton candy ice cream, there’s not an emotional hook in play that I imagine makes this appealing to so many adults who enjoyed it as a kid and now appreciate the mediated sugar hit. I think it’s interesting to try once, but pretty one note. I’ve had it in my freezer for weeks and it’s still half-full. It’s more pleasing for one, maybe two bites than diving in.

How it compares: It looks like Baskin-Robbins helped popularize this one in scoop shops. Today, their version is sold in their grocery pints, too. I’d guess that one and the Blue Bell are the most prominent versions. Since they lean into a fruitier profile, I’m curious to hear from those who enjoy these (or disliked them) about what flavors pop through and their sweetness level.

Possible pairings: Want to experience a science experiment in its tastiest form? Try this flight of Graeter’s flavors to witness the full evolution of sugar, right on your taste buds: Move from Cotton Candy (pale spun sugar) to Creme Brûlée (toasted marshmallow custard), then to Toffee Chocolate Chip (buttery, brittle crunch), and finally to Original Salted Caramel (elite, amber complexities).

Final thought: This is the second time that Graeter’s has allowed me to see one of those often lackluster kids’ flavors with fresh eyes. It’s too bad they aren’t in the Pink Bubblegum business to make it 3 for 3. While this Cotton Candy is plenty whimsical — a lagoon-blue bridge between carnival nostalgia and high-end craft — it’s not wonderful like Birthday Bash. Still, without the teeth-aching sweetness level that afflicts other brands, you’d have to think Graeter’s would get the blessing from 9 out of 10 dentists.

Score: 6.3/10

PINT SNAPSHOT: Graeter’s Cotton Candy

The Look: Pretty lagoon blue with a pink and purple sugar sparkle
The Facts: 402g | 18% Butterfat | 1,010 Calories (340 per 2/3 cup serving)
The Feel: Premium French Pot density with a crystalline sugar crunch
The Theme: High-end carnival whimsy
The Flavor: Light toasted sugar and a hint of vanilla
The Verdict: Well-crafted, but without the pull of nostalgia, it’s a one-and-done pint
The Score: 6.3/10