Graeter’s Review No. 12: Who could blame Graeter’s for wanting a little makeover after 150 years? The iconic brand still holding strong to its French Pot traditions celebrated its sesquicentennial in July 2020 and then five years later decided it was time for a touch-up. You may have seen the new, more vibrant branding and packaging rolling out in your latest pints. I spotted them back in December for the holiday pack, but now they’re showing up on flavors such as Birthday Bash. Hadn’t heard of this one? It’s actually another little rebrand — of the 150th Birthday Cake ice cream Graeter’s gifted to its customers. It proved such a hit they had to keep it around. But perhaps the old name felt too much like failing to update your age on that dating profile? So now we have Birthday Bash: New name, new packaging, but — I’m happy to report — same great flavor.

The backstory: I first tried this one last summer in my first Graeter’s order. At that point, I don’t think I’d ever tried a birthday cake ice cream, writing them off as teeth-achingly sweet kiddie flavors packed with sprinkles and dyed frosting. But when researching flavors this one had fans. A lot of them. And that persuaded me to give it a shot. And I’m very happy I did. While it doesn’t crack the Graeter’s Top 10 — it’s very crowded at the top of that mountain — it’s certainly close. It also gave me the confidence to explore other flavors from the brand I might not otherwise, with mixed results: Graeter’s S’Mores also being an unlikely hit, while their Spirited Eggnog confirmed I should steer clear of bourbon in all forms. And last I scooped Graeter’s, it was another kids’ favorite I had long avoided: Cotton Candy, a sparkly blue flavor inspired by a whimsical carnival treat. Even though I didn’t know what to expect, the toasted sugar vibe surprised me. Still, it felt more interesting than delicious. The opposite was true of my first bites of the birthday cake flavor. This flavor category raised expectations only of a sweet, one-note frosting experience. But Graeter’s managed to take me back to a childhood birthday party without that nagging need to brush my teeth, instead bringing a rich, buttery, well-balanced cake in a pint. After picking up the Cotton Candy, I felt this one was ready for a re-scoop.

What I liked: That buttery yellow cake batter base. It’s crave-worthy in a similar way to Blue Bell’s Gooey Butter Cake, but here we have good little pieces of actual yellow cake that half-disappear into a gooey, pleasant bite, without the sogginess some cake crumb treatments offer. It appears that sweetened condensed milk, a miracle worker in your pantry, also does the trick here, bringing thick, batter-like richness. The sprinkles are just a bonus, not the highlight. 

What could be better: Usually cakes do need some frosting. But I’m happy we don’t have an overly sweet pink or blue buttercream swirl marring this pint’s lovely annatto hue or nudging the sweetness level over the top. If this pint has a flaw it’s that it’s one note, a good one note, but the mix-ins offer mostly textural contrast, not much difference in flavor. What could have worked in this fashion? I’ll almost never say no to a tangy cream cheese swirl. That would have been the one frosting I think would have been most welcome at the party.

How it compares: The only birthday cake flavor I have tried since this is Jeni’s, which leans into the buttercream base. It’s the sort of sugar bomb I expected, though done in an artisan fashion. That one's decent, but I much prefer this.

Possible pairing: Graeter’s Dutch Milk Chocolate for a classic birthday combo, or for some spring berry flavor grab the wonderful seasonal flavor Strawberry Chip.

Final thought: Graeter’s turns 156 this summer. They’ve never looked better! The festive new packaging opens to reveal a colorful party inside the pint with lick-the-beaters creamy yellow cake batter ice cream, little cake pieces and sparkling pastel sprinkles. They could do worse than scoop this one up at the party. 

Score: 9/10
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PINT SNAPSHOT: Graeter’s Birthday Bash

The Facts: 402g | 18% Butterfat | 1160 Calories (390 per 2/3 cup)
The Theme: A kid’s birthday party with cake from a beloved bakery
The Look: Pale yellow annatto-tinted base studded with pastel sprinkles
The Feel: Custardy base with sprinkle crunch and gooey cake pieces
The Flavor: Buttery yellow cake batter that’s like licking the beaters
The Verdict: A festive new look, but the same great flavor
The Score: 9/10