Tiramisu has always been surrounded by local legends. Some claim that its name, roughly translating as “pull me up”, was derived from its use in brothels to energise weary clients. Others say it is the favourite dessert of cardinals in the Vatican.
What everyone can agree on, however, is that it is universally beloved. Now its birthplace, the city of Treviso, near Venice, has erected a temple to Italy’s most famous dessert in time for international tiramisu day on Saturday.
On a small town square, Beccherie Tiramisu sells the mascarpone pudding in huge round cakes and takeaway slices, as well as its components in various forms, from ladyfingers glazed with chocolate to coffee truffle “lollipops”. Behind a window, expert pastry-makers assemble tiramisu under the gaze of aficionados from around the world.
A new centre dedicated to Italy’s famous dessert is opening by the historic Beccherie, in TrevisoCamilla Martini for The Times
Jean-Yves, from near Lyon in France, has come for a slice at the plush patisserie, which opened last week. “I want to sleep on a pillow of tiramisu and eat it at the same time,” said the 63-year-old, whose daughter moved to Treviso five years ago. “I could eat it for every meal.”
The modern tiramisu was born half a century ago at the Beccherie restaurant next door, when a portly chef accidentally dropped a dollop of mascarpone into an egg and sugar mixture. He liked the taste, sparking a process of experimentation that created tiramisu: coffee-soaked ladyfingers layered with mascarpone and cacao powder. Since the restaurant began serving it in 1972, the dessert has conquered restaurant menus around the world.
By opening the new patisserie next door, Paolo Lai, the Beccherie restaurant’s owner, is doing his bit to help Treviso reclaim the gastronomic global icon as its own. “Customers would turn up at lunch or dinner time wanting just to eat tiramisu,” said Lai, who took over the business 12 years ago. “There’s a need among the public that we want to satisfy.”
The origins of tiramisu is a story of evolution. Delicacies with similar ingredients and textures were served in bowls or cups, including at an eatery in San Canzian d’Isonzo from 1935 and a Treviso hotel from 1958.
Paolo LaiCamilla Martini for The Times
Today, it has become ubiquitous in Treviso: ice cream joints are full of it, and specialist shops sell strawberry and pistachio varieties, as well as tiramisu-flavoured liquor.
The city hosts an annual tiramisu “world cup”, a three-day amateur contest drawing 200,000 visitors over three days. On Tiramisu Day, celebrating its ninth year in Treviso on Saturday, the city will offer tours, contests and pastry making workshops. Both initiatives are funded by private sponsors with a contribution from the local council.
Francesco Redi, a Treviso-based tourism expert, launched both the world cup and the so-called tiramisu academy, aimed at spreading knowledge of the dessert. The economic benefits of the events, he said, are immense.
“All of the hotels are sold out and we are promoting our town,” he said. “We are talking about several millions of euros.”
The city, which boasts Venetian Gothic architecture and picturesque canals, was relatively unaccustomed to visitors a decade ago.
Francesco Redi created the tiramisu “world cup”Camilla Martini for The Times
“Identifying ourselves as the home of tiramisu has a very strong cultural, culinary and touristic appeal,” said Mario Conte, the mayor. Conte added that, by the end of the year, the council would update the road signs announcing entry to Treviso, to describe it as “the city of tiramisu”.
Redi suggested the dessert spread globally when glitzy restaurants like Harry’s Bar opened outposts in New York in the 1970s. He first dreamt of making Treviso the epicentre of the tiramisu world when, during work trips abroad, many of those he met were oblivious to its origins.
Expert pastry-makers assemble tiramisu under the gaze of aficionados from around the worldCamilla Martini for The Times
“In Thailand, they were convinced it was from Japan,” he said. “A colleague from the Netherlands thought it was South American.”
Redi suggested Treviso’s co-ordinated promotion of the pudding offered a model for other locations. “If you work together, you make gastronomic products the engine of your economy.”
Where to find the best tiramisu in London
By Sidonie Wilson
Ombra, Hackney
At east London’s answer to Venice, delicious slabs are served up with views of Regent’s Canal. This version is heavy on the cream — who’s complaining?
Cafe Murano
If you are going to trust someone not to mess up a classic Italian dessert, it has has to be the Michelin-starred chef Angela Hartnett. Inspired by her Auntie Maria, Hartnett’s version of the Venetian dessert is a stalwart on every Cafe Murano menu. It is comforting, but not overdone — just as it should be.
Leo’s, Clapton
This cosy, retro café serves up slabs of the best. The yolk-rich Italian zabaglione makes it the star of the show — so good it is even on the breakfast menu.
Trattoria Raffaele, Sydenham
Everyone loves a local hidden gem, where someone’s nonna is whisking up the best (in their opinion) Italian dishes. An unsuspecting location, but this trattoria was once crowned the best restaurant in London on Tripadvisor and the homemade quality remains, especially where tiramisu is concerned.
Norma, Fitzrovia
Perhaps not one for the purists but this popular Sicilian restaurant serves up a delicious white chocolate and pistachio-flavoured version.
Theo’s, Camberwell
Winning the title of London’s best tiramisu in 2021, this pizza joint in south London has not let standards slip. Dine in at the owner Theo Lewis’s trendy neighbourhood restaurant, or order a slab straight to your sofa. You can get massive trays of the award-winning pud for events.
Jikoni, Marylebone
Usually I would say not to mess with a classic, but this Asian-inspired version with mango, limes and rum at Ravinder Bhogal’s restaurant is worth breaking the status quo. Only during mango season, though, which is next month.
Mezzogiorno by Francesco Mazzei, at the Corinthia
This is the ultimate indulgent experience, by one of the most renowned Italian chefs, Francesco Mazzei. A gigantic bowl of tiramisu is wheeled over on a trolley and dished out at your table.
Tarantella, Chiswick
A cosy Italian restaurant that produces big puds. This is the tiramisu to end all tiramisus, coming in a huge bowl costing £30 and serving five or six people (it requires a preorder).
Dining and Cooking