You must get the flaming cheese. Otherwise it’s BYOB.
Photo by Lisa Petty
Dallas is currently mad about Mediterranean. We’ve welcomed several buzzy new restaurants in this category in recent months, each with its own highly-publicized pedigree. And, while we do fall hard for shiny new things here in the Big D, there’s nothing like the true love of a local gem — especially when it comes to luscious hummus.
Take these two spots, for example. To paraphrase John Cusack as Lloyd Dobler in Say Anything, they aren’t “elevated,” they don’t “hail from” the coast, their interiors weren’t “intentionally designed.” And they don’t serve anything super-fancy, either. But we’d serenade them with a boombox in the rain any day. Here’s why.
The Flaming Cheese
9025 Forest Lane, No. 101
This rakish Greek dive may be in its silver fox era, but it still gets our heart racing. No, it’s not in the best part of town, and the side patio overlooks a parking lot. But the walls are decorated with charming, hand-painted murals and an ancient pothos plant wraps around the ceiling in place of crown molding. The staff, though usually harried, is oh, so sweet.
When you go, order the namesake flaming cheese, a.k.a. saganaki ($9). Yep, it is actually set on fire right at the table, and you have to yell “Opa!” or else it doesn’t taste as good. When the flames die down, scoop up the stretchy, melty, ouzo-soaked cheese with pita — or just a spoon. After that, try the hummus ($9), classic gyro sandwich ($12) and chicken kebabs ($11). Most items are under $15; the recipes are traditional, and servings are generous.
Oh, and, except for the ouzo lighter fluid, alcohol is BYOB, which may be the most awesome detail of all. At happy hour the other day, we saw a table of friends laughing over grocery store wine from a paper bag and two of every appetizer on the menu. This is what we hope it’s like in heaven.
Ephesus Mediterranean Grill
Ephesus is an eclectic and charming Greek spot, great for a solo date or otherwise.
10455 N. Central Expressway, No. 118
Moving on. In our “single in the city” phase, this second spot was our go-to for dates. It’s nice, down-to-earth, sometimes sexy and always delicious. (This was also, by the way, our blurb on Bumble.) A youngster at 10 years old, it’s a literal hidden gem. Find it across the parking lot from Golden Chick and two doors down from the foot spa.
Every meal at Ephesus starts with a warm-from-the-oven yeast bun, slick with butter. Order the Cold Sampler ($21) for dipping, with babaganoush, spicy ezme, creamy yogurt haydari and hummus. We then recommend the moussaka ($15) for date night. It’s a warm, rich, layered dish of ground beef and lamb, creamy bechamel and tomato sauce. Ladies, this is like the Greek version of Marry Me Chicken. Trust.
Also can’t-miss are the doner gyro ($15) and the char-grilled salmon ($16). The Greek salad ($11) is a non-traditional interpretation, tossed with vibrant greens and veggies, feta, olives and a bright vinaigrette. The limited but interesting wine list includes unique choices from the Mediterranean region, as well as traditional varietals. Order an exotic bottle to seem sophisticated, and if things are going well, linger over Turkish Coffee ($3.50).
Dining and Cooking