Amid Los Angeles’s ever-expanding landscape of corn tortilla–clad tacos, Sonoratown roots itself in the flour-based traditions of the Northern Mexico town of San Luis Río Colorado, Sonora. The pliant, lard-laden flour tortillas remain the heart of Teodoro Diaz-Rodriguez, Jr. and Jennifer Feltham’s restaurant, which has expanded to three locations since opening in 2016 in Downtown Los Angeles. The menu spans pinto bean-filled burritos, caramelos folded around melted cheese, and salsa-topped tacos, all built around the chewy tortillas. Asada, chorizo, pollo, and more get kissed by mesquite on the grill, while beef or chicken stewed with tomatoes pile into pint-sized chivichangas. Sonoratown’s magic comes across in its balance of ingredients: each gets its due attention, from the brightening spicy punch of chiltepin salsa to the cooling guacamole dotted with tomatoes, and, of course, the tortillas that hold it all together.
Pair meals at Sonoratown with an ice-cold Mexican Coke or go for one of the daily rotating aguas frescas in flavors like hibiscus, coconut horchata, or mango-orange.
Sonoratown offers a handful of family-sized trays if you want to be the most popular person at the potluck or just take a night off cooking. For build-your-own tacos, choose from the one- or two-pound protein option, which comes with a dozen flour tortillas and all the accouterments. Other options include a bean and cheese party with eight snack-sized burritos; a chivichanga-laden party tray; and a vegetarian platter with corn tostadas, pinto beans, and guacamole.
Dining and Cooking