Review by
Michael Cooper
Wine writer·New Zealand Listener·
16 Apr, 2026 06:02 PM3 mins to read
Michael Cooper has 45 wine books and several literary awards to his credit. In the 2004 New Year Honours, Michael was appointed an Officer of the New Zealand Order of Merit.
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Flying solo: Chris Scott and Dom Maxwell have branched out to make their own ‘flagship’ vintages. Photo / Getty Images
Two of the country’s most acclaimed winemakers – Chris Scott, of Church Road Winery in Hawke’s Bay, and Dom Maxwell (who recently left Greystone) in North Canterbury – are releasing small volumes of arresting wines under their own brands.
Raised in Hamilton, Scott planned to be a farmer but
abandoned his studies in business management for wine science. In 1995, he got a temporary, summer job at Church Road, removing buds while battling stinging nettle and 32°C heat. He’s been there almost ever since, and in 2005, was appointed head winemaker.
Maxwell has made wine in North Canterbury for over 20 years. After studying commerce, he gained a postgraduate diploma in viticulture and oenology from Lincoln University. Striving for “site-driven wine” that “confidently speaks of its place”, Maxwell ferments Forager’s grapes with indigenous, rather than cultured yeasts, outside in the vineyard itself, rather than in a winery.
Chris Scott The Briny Wink Tukituki Valley Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2024
★★★★★
Described by Scott as “almost Chablis like”, this distinctive, single-vineyard wine was fermented and matured in mostly seasoned (rather than new) French oak barrels. Bright, light yellow/green, with a fragrant, slightly smoky bouquet, it is weighty, with deep, vibrant, stonefruit flavours, savoury and notably vigorous, which build to a finely poised, crisp, powerful finish. (13.2% alc/vol) $80
Chris Scott The Florilegium Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2024
★★★★★
Very classy, this is the flagship wine from Scott. Grown and hand-harvested almost entirely in the lower Tukituki Valley, it was fermented and aged for 11 months in French oak barrels (20% new) and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Mouthfilling, it is lively, rich and well-rounded. Full of personality, it has concentrated stonefruit flavours, showing excellent vibrancy, depth and complexity, and a finely textured, lasting finish. (13.3% alc/vol) $100
Forager North Canterbury Pinot Noir 2022
★★★★★
Grown 40km inland at 210m above sea level in the Isolated Hill Vineyard, this very gentle, graceful wine is full of youthful energy. Ruby hued, it is mouthfilling and very savoury, with ripe, cherryish, spicy, slightly nutty and earthy flavours, finely integrated oak, fresh acidity, supple tannins and excellent harmony. (13.5% alc/vol) $55
Wine of the week
Forager North Canterbury Chardonnay 2025
★★★★★
This delicious, barrel-fermented wine was grown in the Isolated Hill Vineyard, at Waiau. Bright, light lemon/green, it is fragrant, weighty, sweet-fruited and savoury, with balanced acidity, rich stonefruit flavours and gentle mealy and biscuity notes. Showing lovely depth, complexity and harmony, it’s a multi-layered, very “complete” wine, already drinking well. (13.5% alc/vol) $55
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