I’m always happy to step inside a kosher restaurant that has something specific going on. And that’s especially true when that something is different from most other places in the kosher restaurant world.
Enter Klio. Dedicated to being a fish-centric upscale Mediterranean dairy restaurant, Klio has the look and the vibe to really stand out. The location includes a well appointed dining room, a bar area, an entry lounge and a private room, all of which look inviting. Everything from the lighting to the linens shows that somebody took the time to make the space feel like a luxurious setting somewhere on the coast of the sea.
Interior of Klio
Open late, this spot is perfect for special occasions and loud gatherings as the atmosphere and vibes are consistent with a good time for all who enter. Don’t be surprised if people are singing happy birthday or dancing in the aisles to celebrate a sheva brachot.
When I was invited to Klio, I was interested to see sushi on the menu. But not only has sushi grown in popularity in kosher restaurants, it has made similar progress in modern Mediterranean spaces where they have amazing access to fresh fish. With that in mind, I tried to figure out where to start.
Risotto fungi rich with fillet of sea bass
A handful of interesting signature rolls and even some raw fish apps could all have found their way into this space on their own merits, but there was a clear frontrunner that separated itself from the competition. The Truffle Silk Toro Roll consists of bluefin tuna, sautéed wild mushrooms and avocado on the inside with toro tuna, chives and a truffle oil drizzle on the outside. To say that this melted in my mouth would be an understatement. Not only are the two types of tuna and avocado a nice combination but the mushrooms made this offering unique and special. The umami punch achieved by the earthy duo of the mushrooms and truffle oil made this truly stand out. One of my favorite rolls in a while.
The other appetizer that I need to give a shoutout to is the Arancini. Yes, we’ve all had arancini before, but that doesn’t mean that we should overlook them. The reason we’ve all had arancini is because they are generally a reliable choice, but I was told that the ones at Klio were a must order item and so I did. They had a great cheese pull on the inside, but the outside was more noteworthy as the crispy crust was combined with a harissa aioli and a slice of hot pepper. I’ve had spicy arancini before, but that’s usually more of an arrabiata thing. Here, the chef cleverly uses the heat of the pepper and the harissa to oppose the aspect of creaminess found in the cheese and aioli. The result is a well balanced appetizer that you’d love to eat more of but that just isn’t how all this works.
Moroccan taboon-baked Dorado
Next up is the Klio Salad. This eponymous entry is bold enough to make my list because it uses not only blue cheese but also a blue cheese vinaigrette. Those are components much more common in non-kosher establishments than in our usual eateries. The inclusion of both pears and grapes to the bowl brings a sweetness that counteracts some of the richness of the blue cheese. The walnuts not only provide a crunch but also an earthy flavor that helps balance everything so that neither the fruit nor the cheese can claim victory in dominating the salad. If you’re a fan of blue cheese, or maybe just looking to expand your salad horizons, this is a great choice.
Speaking of dishes that are more common in non-kosher eateries, the Limoncello Rosso is a bowl of bold, lemon-flavored pasta that might seem a little odd to the average kosher consumer, but is a staple of upscale Italian restaurants these days. Using the classic combination of a lemon butter sauce, parsley, breadcrumbs and parmesan, this dish has a stronger lemon flavor than you might be used to, even if you’ve had some kind of lemon pasta before. That said, the parsley and parm give you a herbaceous, nutty base, while the breadcrumbs add a crunchy texture that is a nice compliment to the mostly creamy texture from the sauce and house-made pasta. It may be a bold choice but Klio is a bold restaurant with bold flavors.
Limoncello rosso
As you may recall from elementary school geography, the Mediterranean is a sea. As a dairy Mediterranean restaurant, this makes Klio primarily a fish place. If you’re looking for something that might be a little on the familiar side, try the Moroccan Taboon-Baked Whole Fish. Your waiter will provide you with a list of what fishes they have in stock to choose from. Then you’ll be asked if you’d like to debone it yourself or if you’d like them to do it for you. Then sit back and wait until the aromatic taboon shows up. It’ll provide that pungent smell of tomato, garlic and fresh herbs and spices. If you’ve never had Moroccan fish, there’s nothing like scooping up some of the tomato base with a piece of fish and letting that warm tomato sauce take over your taste buds as you savor the fish.
And yet, my top recommendation is actually for a different fish. The Risotto Fungi Rich with Sea Bass is absolutely the way to go. You could choose another fish, but I don’t recommend that. The sea bass is going to be a little bit on the fattier side and therefore allow for the oil from the fish to seep into the risotto below. Did I mention that this risotto is amazing? Not only do we have a classic dairy risotto (none of this pareve stuff that comes close but never really hits the right spot), but the wild mushroom mixture shakes up the texture just enough while also bringing an umami flavor to the dish that really helps it stand on its own as one of the best risottos I’ve ever had. Even if you think it might be a bit too rich for your blood, maybe just propose splitting this with somebody else at your table so that you can at least get a bite of greatness.
Klio salad
Klio
Dairy – Modern Mediterranean – Waiter Service
Sunday: 5-10:30 p.m.
Monday-Thursday: 5 p.m.-midnight
Saturday: 9 p.m.-1 a.m.
(718) 247-2545
klionyc.com
107-04 Queens Blvd
Forest Hills, New York
Vaad Harabonim of Queens (VHQ)
Arancini
Dining and Cooking