We visited a Leeds French award-winning restaurant branded ‘a bit horny, a bit dirty’ by The Times.
Bavette is a bistro located in Horsforth with a rotating menu offering a mix of seasonal dishes which opened in 2024. The restaurant, named after the French term for a flank steak, has won a range of awards over the years, from the likes of Good Food Guide, Michelin, Time Out, Square Meal and Open Table.
It also holds the 2025 Travellers’ Choice Award on TripAdvisor after more than a hundred reviews and a 4.6/5 rating. It’s been hailed on the website for its “delicious flavours and high-quality cooking”. Some reviews note that it’s quite pricey – but my opinion on that matter is: if you can’t afford it, don’t go there.
While The Times’ sensational headline may not have come as a welcome remark to the owners, in the same breath, it hailed the restaurant as “brilliant” with a glowing review.
I visited the restaurant, on Town Street, nestled amidst the suburb’s narrow winding roads, just as it was opening for the evening. Diners began to fill in very quickly. It must be noted, you have to make a reservation ahead of your visit.
Bavette, Town Street, Horsforth -Credit:Samuel Port
The restaurant had a chilled-out sophisticated atmosphere which was welcome after a long day. I didn’t notice anything that justified The Times’ reviewer’s claims it was “a bit horny, a bit dirty,” which seem like bizarre and cringeworthy comments to make about a restaurant – although, no doubt they’ve have generated a lot more traffic on their website. As the article is behind a pay wall, I can’t dig any deeper into those comments, unfortunately.
The staff were personable and friendly, and conducted themselves in a professional and chilled out manner. There was mellow harmonious music playing quietly in the background. The lighting was ambient and accentuated by the flicker of the candles on each table. It was almost as if I was being whisked away to a serene corner of the the Champs-Élysées…
Twice-Baked Crab Soufflé with bisque sauce and fennel salad -Credit:Samuel Port
There was a romantic feel to the restaurant – so, on reflection, I can see why the restaurant may have excited Times reviewer Camilla Long to such a thrilling degree over the course of her evening. I had a wonderful time there – but perhaps not quite as wonderful as Camilla. I’d describe my visit as a contented relaxing evening, enthused with joie de vivre.
I also really liked the open kitchen they had at the back. It was nice to directly send my compliments to the chefs and be met with smiling faces. They looked like they enjoyed working there.
The food came out very quickly and my waiter was excellent with his advice on the dishes I’d queried. For starters, I ordered the Twice-Baked Crab Soufflé, Bisque Sauce, Fennel Salad. This was a rich and intoxicating dish. The soufflé was moist and spongey with a sweet full-bodied intoxicating flavour. It paired well with the salad which seemed fresh.
Herb-Crusted Lamb Saddle with crisp shoulder, celeriac purée, kalettes and sauce reform -Credit:Samuel Port
(Samuel Port)
For the main course, I ordered the Herb-Crusted Lamb Saddle, Crisp Shoulder, Celeriac Purée, Kalettes and Sauce Reform. The seemingly complex dish was presented beautifully. The lamb saddle was cooked rare and my steak knife went through it like butter.
The herb-crusting gave each morsel a piquant edge, complementing the deep and rich flavours of the tender meat. The crisp shoulder also had a meaty flavour with a crackling outer shell and soft and potent filling. The celeriac purée was like velvet and so creamy. Just a very well put-together dish.
Finally – and I couldn’t resist, completely blowing my budget – I ordered dessert, the Paris-Brest. It’s a classic French pastry shaped into a ring and filled with praline-flavoured cream and topped with flaked almonds and sugar. My waiter became very animated when he explained how it was named after the Paris–Brest–Paris bike race in the early 20th century, hence the ringed shape which is supposed to represent a bicycle wheel. I appreciated the history lesson.
The sweet treat, which was massive, was simply wonderful. The choux pastry was delicate and airy, perfectly complemented by the thick swirl of cream.
Paris-Brest -Credit:Samuel Port
The Bill
Twice-Baked Crab Soufflé – £14
Herb-Crusted Lamb Saddle – £35
Total (incl service charge) – £67.50
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Dining and Cooking