The front window at Civitello’s may promote its identity as a pastry shop, but the menu also includes sandwiches and irresistible tomato pie.
Stephanie Gravalese/For the Times Union
After two years behind papered-over windows, Civitello’s Italian Pastry Shoppe is back. The century-old mainstay in Schenectady’s Little Italy reopened this summer with its pastry case refilled, trays of eclairs, ovens running and tomato pies walking out the door. It’s a legacy to live up to, but much of what matters is already in place.
Don’t skip out on the eggplant sandwich — it makes a strong case for going savory. A generous, sauce-soaked slab of breaded eggplant is nestled between slices of fresh Italian bread that hold up beautifully: sturdy, soft and just the right amount of give. The sauce is rich and well-balanced, leaning neither too sweet nor too acidic, and it seeps into the edges of the bread without turning it soggy. There’s no cheese here, but it doesn’t need it. It delivers all the flavors of a Sunday dinner, just faster and between bread.
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At right, it may not look like much, but the eggplant sandwich at Civitello’s Pastry Shop in Schenectady has a taste that far exceeds its presentation. Left, eclairs fill the pastry case at Civitello’s.
If you’re in the mood for something sweet, the eclair hits the mark. The shell has a slight give, filled generously with custard that’s cool, smooth and restrained in sweetness. A chocolate glaze tops it off and complements the custard without stealing the show.
Roasted garlic adds a creamy pop to the tomato pie at Civitello’s.
Stephanie Gravalese/For the Times Union
At Civitello’s, you can’t go wrong with an eclair.
Stephanie Gravalese/For the Times Union
It may not look like much, but the eggplant sandwich at Civitello’s has a taste that far exceeds its presentation.
Stephanie Gravalese/For the Times Union
The Civitello’s sandwich may be ordered with capicola, soppressata or salami.
Stephanie Gravalese/For the Times Union
Civitello’s sandwiches are built to share, with halves and wholes depending on your appetite. In addition to the eggplant, we split The Civitello’s sandwich, ordered with capicola (but you can also get it with soppressata or salami), which stands out for its format as much as its components. Instead of being packed into a dense sub roll or grinder, it’s layered on sliced Italian bread, which gives the ingredients room to breathe. You taste the crisp bite of onion, the salt and spice of the cured meat, the sweetness of roasted red peppers. The freshness stands out — less about compression, more about all the ingredients coming through clearly. At $8 for a half and $15 for a whole, it’s generous without being overwhelming, especially paired with one of the rotating hot lunch specials.
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After sandwiches, we moved on to the iconic tomato pie. Served cold, as is tradition, the slice is topped with a thick, chunky tomato sauce that leans savory, layered over a pizza-like crust with just enough chew and a crust marked by leopard spots. Whole cloves of roasted garlic are tucked into the sauce, and while I knew they were there, getting that surprise pop of creamy garlic in the perfect bite never got old. Even after the tomato pie, my friend made sure to finish the last bites of his eggplant sandwich. No bites left behind.
Civitello’s Italian Pastry Shoppe in Schenectady reopened at the end of July. The recipes are original, and members of the founding family still serve as consultants.
Stephanie Gravalese/For the Times Union
The shop has been a fixture in the neighborhood since 1921, when it was founded by Ralph Civitello, whose granddaughters Roie and Angela Angerami owned and ran it until selling a majority stake three years ago. Civitello’s reopened in July after a 19-month renovation by new owner Mark Novak and is now managed by his son Chris and Chris’ partner, Kelsey, with longtime Angerami family members still serving as advisers. The goal, it seems, wasn’t reinvention but restoration — and the result honors the place’s roots.
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The space has old-school heritage with updates that don’t erase its history. Checkerboard floors and green vinyl booths line one side of the room while glass pastry cases filled with cookies, cannoli and rows of empty shells waiting to be filled stretch along the right. Black cafe tables are scattered throughout, with vintage-style lighting and a pressed-tin ceiling overhead. Out back, there’s a small courtyard for warm-weather seating — another reason to linger, whether you’re stopping in for lunch or just a few pastries to go.
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Pastry cases line one wall at Civitello’s with an array of treats, which are best followed by an Italian ice.
Stephanie Gravalese/For the Times Union
Civitello’s runs on counter service, with food brought out once it’s ready. We grabbed a booth near the front, though there’s more seating tucked toward the center of the space, surrounded by pastry cases and wall menus scribbled with specials.
Civitello’s Italian Pastry Shoppe
Address: 42 N. Jay St., Schenectady
Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday, closed Sunday and Monday
Prices: Sandwiches, $8 to $15; pastries, $2 to $6; Italian ices, $2 to $4
Info: 518-381-6165 and civitellos.com
Etc.: Street parking. ADA-accessible. Reservations not accepted.
For dessert, we sampled a mix of the shop’s popular picks: an eclair, a square of tiramisu and a lobster tail pastry. The tiramisu is softer and more delicate than some, its layers giving way gradually as the fork goes through — light on top, denser below. Each bite pulls you a little deeper, with espresso notes that emerge gently rather than hitting all at once.
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The lobster tail pastry (not to be confused with its ricotta-filled cousin, sfogliatelle) delivered a crisp shell that crackled under the fork. If you’re with someone who usually passes on dessert for being “too sweet,” this is the one to hand them.
The interior of Civitello’s is evocative of its past while readying the business for a future of homey food and delicious desserts.
Stephanie Gravalese/For the Times Union
Because it would be unthinkable not to do it at Civitello’s, we ended on the Italian ice, and it felt just right — tart, cold and a little nostalgic. We went with lemon, served in a plastic cup. There’s something timeless about eating Italian ice slowly, trying to beat the heat — and the inevitable brain freeze. One bite brought me back to hot summer nights, where the goal was always to eat fast, but not too fast. The lemon came through bright and clear. It was a great way to end the meal.
The return of Civitello’s feels like a homecoming, but it’s also a handoff. After more than a century in Schenectady’s Little Italy, the shop is entering a new chapter. While under new ownership, it remains rooted in the food that has shaped its place in the community. That transition carries weight: It means taking responsibility for a name, a set of dishes and a legacy — and choosing to carry it forward with care. Whether it’s tomato pie, a lobster tail pastry or a sandwich made with intention, the food here reflects a legacy that’s still being lived.
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An earlier version of this review incorrectly characterized the ownership history of Civitello’s.
Dining and Cooking