Syracuse Sandwiches: Lombardi’s Tyler Smith presents a tightly wrapped Dino sandwich at Lombardi’s Imports in Syracuse. (Charlie Miller | cmiller@syracuse.com) (Charlie Miller/(Charlie Miller | cmiller@syracuse.com))
(We all have our go-to order. This series is about shaking that up. Each week, I’ll spotlight one sandwich at a Central New York restaurant worth trying — and explain why it ended up on my plate. Got a suggestion? Text me at 315-382-1984. Don’t be surprised if I ask you to join me.)
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Syracuse, N.Y. — Some sandwiches are built to impress, piled high with toppings and extras that compete for attention. Others don’t need any of that.
At Lombardi’s on Syracuse’s North Side, the best ones fall into that second category.
This family-owned Italian imports market on Butternut Street is the kind of place where every shelf has a purpose and every ingredient has been chosen carefully. One aisle is lined almost entirely with olive oils, another with pasta, a quiet reminder that what goes into the sandwich matters just as much as what comes out of the kitchen.
I’ve written about The Jake before, the loaded Italian that draws plenty of regulars. This time, I went in a different direction and ordered The Dino, a sandwich that reflects what Dominic “Dino” Lombardi has been making for himself after more than five decades at the deli counter.
Syracuse Sandwiches: Lombardi’s Dominic Lombardi starts another sandwich at Lombardi’s Imports on Butternut Street in Syracuse. (Charlie Miller | cmiller@syracuse.com) (Charlie Miller/Charlie Miller | cmiller@syracuse.com)
That detail alone tells you a lot.
Tyler Smith, who runs the counter on Dominic’s day off, started with a fresh 9-inch Di Lauro’s roll, cutting it clean down the middle before giving it a drizzle of imported extra virgin olive oil. There’s no mayo or heavy dressing here, just enough oil to bring everything together.
He added a layer of Calabrese chili pepper spread, explaining that a little goes a long way.
“I keep it light,” he said. “It can sneak up on you.”
“More please.”
“You want more? You sure about that, sir?”
You’re darn tootin’. (And don’t call me sir.)
Syracuse Sandwiches: Lombardi’s The start of 28 slices of hot Calabrese soppressata for a Dino sandwich at Lombardi’s Imports in Syracuse. (Charlie Miller | cmiller@syracuse.com) (Charlie Miller/(Charlie Miller | cmiller@syracuse.com))
The meats came next, sliced thin behind the counter. First was hot Calabrese soppressata, followed by Venetian hot capicola. I got about 28 slices of each, yet nothing felt overdone or piled unnecessarily high.
Then came five slices of cheese, an imported provolone from Italy with a creamy texture and a sharp finish that stood up to the spice.
“That’s what makes it,” Smith said.
Customers can add lettuce, tomato or onion, but the menu ignores such distractions. The focus stays on the essentials, and the sandwich doesn’t suffer for it.
Syracuse Sandwiches: Lombardi’s Five slices of Italian provolone cheese sits atop hot Calabrese soppressata and hot capicola which is resting on chili spread and olive oil for a Dino sandwich at Lombardi’s Imports in Syracuse. (Charlie Miller | cmiller@syracuse.com) (Charlie Miller/(Charlie Miller | cmiller@syracuse.com))
When it was wrapped and handed over, it looked almost too simple compared to some of the more overloaded sandwiches around town.
It didn’t stay that way for long.
The bread has just enough structure to hold everything together without getting in the way. The oil seeps into the roll without making it heavy. The meats bring a steady intensity, and the provolone smooths it out.
Nothing overwhelms, and nothing gets lost.
Syracuse Sandwiches: Lombardi’s The Dino sandwich from Lombardi’s Imports in Syracuse. (Charlie Miller | cmiller@syracuse.com) (Charlie Miller/(Charlie Miller | cmiller@syracuse.com))
It’s a clean sandwich, but it still has a punch, and that balance is what makes it work.
After 57 years of making sandwiches, this is what Dino eats.
That’s probably not a coincidence.
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Sandwich: The Dino at Lombardi’s Imports, $9.99
Address: 534 Butternut St., Syracuse; (315) 472-5900
Hours: Monday-Friday 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.; Saturday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Sunday 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Dining and Cooking