Dolcetto, among the most classic red wines from Italy’s Piedmont region, does not often receive the critical acclaim it may deserve. This may be in part because it does not age as well as the region’s most iconic offerings, Barolo and Barbaresco, but the reality for Dolcetto is that its pleasures are often more straightforward and accessible — you enjoy it for its charms.
As a wine typically enjoyed at an early age, Dolcetto is too often forgotten when the conversation revolves around classic red wines. Yet it is among the most traditional of all grapes from Piedmont, one that has enjoyed a lengthy history in the region.
“Dolcetto has been part of our roots forever,” says Federica Boffa, proprietor of the Pio Cesare winery in Alba. “It has the same importance of Barbera and Nebbiolo, being able to adapt to our terroir. I describe it as a fruitier and more approachable expression of wine.”
Most examples of Dolcetto are vinified and aged in steel, resulting in its flexibility with an impressive range of foods.
“Personally, I appreciate some of the more approachable iterations with grilled vegetables, especially eggplant,” says Richard Hanauer, wine director at RPM Italian in Chicago. “With more serious bottlings, I like using lighter meats like rabbit and veal. At the restaurant, we offer the Tableside Beef for a lighter style and the Grilled Colorado Lamb Chops as a fuller-bodied entrée option.”
Credit: Courtesy of Pio Cesare
A special place and grape
Most of the Dolcetto bottles found on retail shelves or restaurant lists are identified as Dolcetto d’Alba. The Alba territory is home to the Barolo and Barbaresco zones, and while some area producers have eliminated their Dolcetto production for various reasons such as production costs or reputation, many continue to take great satisfaction in continuing to craft this historical wine.
One such estate is Cascina Penna-Currado in Serralunga d’Alba, owned by wife and husband Elena Penna and Luca Currado Vietti, former proprietors of the Vietti winery.
Related: Langhe Nebbiolo Delivers Barolo-Level Depth for Less
Given that Barolo is more in demand, why did Penna and Currado decide to work with Dolcetto at their new property?
“We continue to produce Dolcetto because we believe that a winery in the Langhe [the district in southern Piedmont where their winery is located] should not only produce Nebbiolo and Barbera but should represent the whole tradition of the area,” says Penna. “Dolcetto is part of the history of every family here and abandoning it would mean losing an important piece of our identity. The choice to continue producing Dolcetto is not a business decision, but a cultural and agricultural decision.”
Credit: Courtesy of Bruno Giacosa
Concurring with Penna is Bruna Giacosa, who has continued the remarkable work of her late father, Bruno; the quality of Bruno Giacosa wines is extraordinary.
“My father had always produced Dolcetto and so I see it as the continuance of a tradition,” says Giacosa on why she loves making Dolcetto. “We shouldn’t forget our traditions, after all — Dolcetto is part of our past and therefore should be part of our present.”
In southern Langhe, the town of Dogliani has become a spiritual home for Dolcetto, so much so that the best examples here are simply named Dogliani, without the name of the grape. A top local producer is Orlando Pecchenino, who explains that the Dogliani climate is colder and windier than in the Barolo zone.
Credit: Courtesy of Pecchenino
“Nebbiolo grapes have difficulty ripening here and produce fewer grapes,” says Pecchenino. Compared to Dolcetto d’Alba, “in the Dogliani area, the Dolcetto grape is richer and more intense.”
As new drinkers are enjoying wine less frequently these days, Dolcetto may be the offering that becomes a favorite. Penna, for one, believes that consumers who value pleasure more than prestige have a great affinity for Dolcetto.
“Today, younger generations have a clear idea of what they want: purity, terroir, complexity and drinkability,” says Penna. “We see our Dolcetto being received by young drinkers as a ‘new-old’ way to experience the Langhe.”
Related: What to Know about Timorasso, Piedmont’s White Barolo
Six Dolcettos to try now2023 Pio Cesare Dolcetto d’Alba ($29) 
Credit: Food & Wine / Pio Cesare
This wine is a nice introduction to Dolcetto, with black fruit and spice notes, modest tannins, and a slight savory character. Enjoy it through 2028.
2024 Cascina Penna-Currado Dolcetto d’Alba Bricco Lago ($38)
Credit: Food & Wine / Cascina Penna-Currado
Penna-Currado crafts this irresistible Dolcetto with great purity, notes of delicious cranberry fruit, and outstanding harmony. It’s a beautiful food wine to enjoy tonight or anytime through 2030.
2024 Bruno Giacosa Dolcetto d’Alba Falletto ($37)
Credit: Food & Wine / Bruno Giacosa Dolcetto d’Alba
Sourced from a vineyard where Giacosa produces their greatest Barolo, this is a Dolcetto of excellent richness and aging potential. It’s hard to resist now, but should be at its peak from 2031–2033.
2023 Pecchenino Dogliani San Luigi ($21)
Credit: Food & Wine / Pecchenino Dogliani
After opening aromas of cocoa powder and black pepper, this has medium-weight tannins and distinct black spice notes on the palate. It will drink well for another three to five years.
2023 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Dogliani Superiore Madonna delle Grazie Vigna Tecc ($36)
Credit: Food & Wine / Einaudi Dogliani Superiore
Aromas of black raspberry, myrtle, and hints of juniper and carob lead the way on this wine. It’s a noteworthy example of how complex and stylish Dogliani can be, and should be at peak in 2031.
2023 Francesco Boschis Dogliani Superiore Pianezzo Vigna dei Prey ($30)
Credit: Food & Wine / Francesco Boschis Dogliani Superiore
Myrtle, black plum and anise aromas form the bouquet. This is a beautifully made, stylish Dogliani with medium-full tannins and notable persistence. Enjoy now or through 2031.
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