Fenwick Food Hall underwent a revamp in 2015, with Fuego now one of the department store’s more-popular eateries
17:49, 28 Jul 2018Updated 18:11, 30 Jul 2018
Fuego restaurant in Fenwick, Newcastle(Image: Newcastle Chronicle)
Back in 2015, 21 Hospitality Group chef and restaurateur Terry Laybourne helped redevelop Fenwick Food Hall.
Among the new restaurants, cafes and eateries introduced into the former supermarket-style area was Fuego – described as an “exciting Mediterranean wine bar and restaurant” on the Fenwick website.
Over the last few years, Fuego has developed quite the reputation – and is popular among shoppers and businesspeople alike.
But is it worth a visit? Chris Waugh went along to Fuego to try this tapas-style restaurant out…
Hake with crab and saffron(Image: Newcastle Chronicle)
What’s the place like?
It is almost three years since Fenwick revamped their food hall, but this Laybourne-inspired eatery still has a fresh, modern feel to it.
Fuego sits in the back, left-hand corner of the room as you enter the food hall, and is pretty much open plan.
Boasting a trendy bar area and some high tables at the front, there is more conventional seating further into the restaurant – which is decorated in a sleek, minimalist style.
Perhaps the restaurant’s best feature is the open kitchen area, from which customers can view the chefs preparing their meals – including in Fuego’s very own pizza oven.
Toscana and ham croquettes(Image: Newcastle Chronicle)
How was the food?
‘Mediterranean’ restaurants always confuse me slightly, as I’m never exactly sure what type of cuisine I’m eating – but Fuego has a variety of dishes selected from around southern Europe which complement one another, and which therefore make for a balanced and consistent menu,
Essentially Fuego’s menu appears to point you towards two menu options: either a starter and then a pizza, or a tapas-style selection of several little dishes.
My girlfriend and I, who have been to Fuego at least a dozen times before, opted for the latter – primarily because there were some old favourites we wanted to try again, and there were also some new dishes for us to sample.
The house-baked bread tin (£3.50) contained three different varieties, including some bread sticks. It truth be told, however, it was slightly disappointing; the former incarnation of the bread selection we have tried previously – which boasted dips and oils – was more exciting.
Chicken thighs with Romanesco sauce(Image: Newcastle Chronicle)
In order to accompany the bread we ordered Toscano salami (£6.00) and Monte Enebro goat’s cheese (£4.50). The salami was full of flavour, while the goat’s cheese had a nice tang to it – but, although they were both delicious, the salami was a little on the expensive side considering we only received six small slices.
The ham croquettes (£1.50 each) were enjoyable, if a little denser than normal, and were filled with salty meat.
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But the Padron peppers (£3.50) – small, green morsels complemented nicely with salt – are a favourite of ours, and they did not disappoint.
In terms of heartier options, we tried the roast chicken thighs accompanied with salsa romesco (£5.50). The skin of the chicken was beautifully crisp, while the sauce was just the right consistency – not too wet, but not too dry – to coat the moist meat.
The star of the show was undoubtedly the hake with crab – usually clams, but the restaurant had run out of those – fennel, tomatoes and saffron (£12.50). Although expensive, this fish dish is worth the money if you want to treat yourself.
Meaty fish comes swimming in a saffron-yellow sauce, the flavour of which lingers on your tastebuds.
The pea, pancetta and manchego salad (£4.00), which boasted a dressing full of citrus and vinegar sharpness, cut through the main course nicely.
Pea and pancetta salad(Image: Newcastle Chronicle)
Suitably stuffed from our tapas selection, we opted to share a dessert nonetheless – and I am glad we did.
The crema catalana (£5.00) – a rich, creamy, citrus-vanilla custard and blowtorched like a creme brulee – was delicious. The bitterness of the burned sugar ensured it was not too sweet – and I could easily have eaten another.
What about service?
The staff were courteous, attentive and knowledgeable of the menu – and served us with a San Pellegrino Limonata (£2.50), Fever-Tree ginger beer (£2.10) and a jug of tap water in super-quick time.
They were not pushy or overbearing, either – and informed us in good time when the kitchen would be closing, in case we wanted to order additional tapas.
The 10 per cent discretionary service charge – £5.26 on our bill – was more-than deserved.
Creme Catalana(Image: Newcastle Chronicle)
So what’s the verdict?
With just a few tweaks, Fuego would be pushing five stars. In fact, on the evidence of my previous visits, I expected this to be a four-star review minimum.
But I have to admit I was just a little bit disappointed with our meal. The food just seemed to be a tad bit underwhelming when compared to previous visits – and this despite it being a Monday evening, so it’s not like the kitchen was swamped with orders.
Given the cost – our bill came to £52.60, before the 10 per cent service charge – it is on the steep side for a tapas-style meal for two, albeit that we did have one of the most-expensive items in the hake.
OPINION
Richard Fletcher
I would still encourage everyone to give Fuego a try if they are in Fenwick Food Hall and looking for a place to eat.
There is no doubt in my mind that the next time I go I will leave more satisfied – it’s just a shame that this was the occasion I was reviewing a restaurant my girlfriend and I are both very fond of…
FACT BOX:
Fuego
Address: Fuego, Fenwick Newcastle, 39 Northumberland Street
GPS: NE1 7AS
Tel: 0191 232 5100
Web: https://www.fenwick.co.uk/18cdd991-0ed7-4a94-9781-2031a33b765f.html
Score: Three stars out of five
Dining and Cooking