Cabernet franc, like malbec, is a grape that plays a small role in the blends of many red bordeaux but in Argentina has found a distinctive expression. In terms of flavour co-ordinates, it’s closer to the lusher, fuller, perfumed cabernet franc of Pomerol or Saint-Émilion than it is to the fine-boned wines of, say, Chinon or St Nicolas de Bourgueil in the Loire. But whilst Argentinian cab franc can be succulent and cushioned, in the right hands – like Zuccardi’s – it can also have texture and delineation, creating a wine that suits both classical and contemporary tastes.
While plantings have been growing, cabernet franc still represents a relatively small portion of Argentina’s red grape vineyard – 1.8 per cent against malbec’s 42.1 per cent – according to the promotional body Wines of Argentina. But it’s telling that Clive Donaldson, head of wine at Asda, notes that last time he was on a buying trip in Argentina, “I was amazed that when you go into a restaurant in Mendoza [the capital city of Argentina’s main wine province] there are as many cabernet francs on the wine list as there are malbecs.” And, yes, there is an Asda Argentinian cabernet franc launching later this year, at the end of summer.
Well I can’t wait until then to start drinking it so here are four more to try – but please don’t ignore the Zuccardi Regiones just because it’s not from the supermarket. It’s a star. I love to drink it with a homemade smash burger, pickled green chillies and a pile of coleslaw – a great accompaniment for any of the wines below, too.
Bottles to try…
Dining and Cooking