In the heart of Marylebone sits a touch of the Mediterranean, all thanks to Maset, one of London’s newest openings. Located on Chiltern Street, it is the latest venture from Melody Adams, the restaurateur behind Donostia and Lurra, and takes its inspiration from the Occitania region of southern France. Home to Toulouse and Montpellier, it’s a part of the country known for its food, vineyard culture and relaxed way of dining.
Bright and polished, the interior blends chic, tailored Parisian style with softer Mediterranean touches, white chairs finished with tan fabrics, relaxed cream wood details and a warm, easy elegance.
Despite only recently opening its doors, on the night we dined, the restaurant already felt like the place to be. The room was buzzing with groups of all ages, tables full from early evening, and an energy that suggested word has travelled quickly.
Typically, Maset offers a taste of French culture, but throughout April, the restaurant was hosting a special collaboration with its Basque sister restaurant, Donostia, giving the menu an added layer of Spanish influence. The result was a delicious menu built for sharing, with dishes like crab pintxos, Jamón croquetas and sea bream crudo, alongside larger plates including Galician octopus, monkfish and rib-eye.
Dining with a vegetarian friend, it was refreshing to find that the menu offered genuine options rather than the usual token dishes.
The menu takes its inspiration from the Occitania region of southern France. Image credit: Sarah Frances Kelley
For starters, we asked our waiter for a selection of what the restaurant does best, and the results didn’t disappoint. The pan con tomate was simple but beautifully done, light, slightly doughy bread topped with a bright, fresh tomato mixture that tasted of proper seasoning.
The panisse with Gilda tapenade brought contrast in texture, they were crisp on the outside, soft through the middle, with a generous spooning of tapenade which added a sharp, vibrant hit to the plate. My standout dish, though, was the crab pintxos topped with Beluga caviar. Rich and packed with flavour, it’s a dish I can’t stop thinking about.
Despite already being fairly full from the starters, when the food is this good, you really have no choice but to make room for mains. As with starters, we sampled a spread across the menu. The Ibérico de Bellota pork shoulder with romesco, was a real highlight. A generous, hearty portion of beautifully chargrilled meat, it was rich and indulgent with that deep salty flavour good pork should have, and balanced perfectly by a bold, smoky romesco sauce.
The classic tortilla proved exactly why it remains such a staple. Light, soft and comforting, the omelette arrived with a generous serving of aioli that oozed across the plate, making each bite even better.
The gambas a la plancha felt especially impressive for London, meaty prawns that tasted genuinely fresh, cooked perfectly and served simply with lemon and ajillo. Bright and zingy, it was one of those dishes that lets the ingredient do the work.
Vegetarian options include berenjena with pangrattato. Image credit: Anna Horne
For the vegetarian option, the berenjena with pangrattato, was far from an afterthought. The aubergine was slow-cooked until it almost melted, while the pangrattato added a welcome crunch. It was generous, satisfying and easily held its own against the meat and seafood dishes around it.
By this point, dessert felt ambitious. We had every intention of politely declining, but our waiter insisted we couldn’t leave without trying the signature Basque cheesecake, and thankfully, we listened. Arriving piled high on the plate, it was smooth and surprisingly light, with a deep, almost caramelised flavour that lingered long after the plate was cleared.
Service matched the food perfectly. The team were warm, knowledgeable and clearly passionate about what they were serving.
It was something both my friend and I noticed throughout the evening: a lot of smiles in the room. From staff and diners alike, there was a sense that people were there to enjoy themselves, which gave the whole restaurant an easy charm. It’s a vibe that isn’t always easy to come by in central London.
In a nutshell
Maset is somewhere I’d happily recommend, and somewhere I’d absolutely return. The rotating collaborations between kitchens keep things feeling fresh. Add to that fresh ingredients, stacks of flavour, generous portions and a menu that balances polish with real warmth, and it feels like Marylebone has found one of its best new restaurants.
Factbox
Address: 40-42 Chiltern Street, London W1U 7QN
Phone: 0203 822 0808
Website: maset.london
Dining and Cooking