As a culinary term, “fusion” has all the sex appeal of tuna noodle casserole. Chefs can barely utter the word in polite company, let alone use it to describe their cooking style. Yet as a guiding philosophy in their kitchens, chefs practice fusion all the time. Latin falafel. Squash dan dan. Foie gras nigiri. Napa cabbage braised in lobster oil with Périgord truffles. Mushroom risotto with Oaxacan chiles. These are all dishes that have, at some point, graced menus among the top 10 restaurants in Tom Sietsema’s 2019 Fall Dining Guide.
Dining and Cooking