Nicolas Goldberg and his wife at their Finca la Igriega in Altamira, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, copyright BKWine Photography
BKWine Photography
Place names matter to both the wine enthusiast and the wine producer. The New World countries initially focused on the grape variety. But over time, inspired by Europe, they have introduced their own geographical indications (not least the USA, which has its many AVAs). Soil and other geographic conditions vary across a large wine region. Being able to provide a more detailed origin on the label gives the producer a story to tell and lends the wine greater exclusivity.
Mendoza is Argentina’s largest wine region, famous for its bold Malbec wines. Nowadays, however, you find a wide range of wine styles, from Malbec to other varieties. The growing season is hot, which explains the intense black fruit flavours you often find in the wines, but the vineyards at high altitude will temper the heat and add freshness.
Vineyards at Finca la Igriega with the Andes in the background, Altamira, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, copyright BKWine Photography
BKWine Photography
Mendoza has three main subregions. Just south of Mendoza City, you find Luján de Cuyo and Maipú. About a 90-minute drive from the city, you end up in Uco Valley. It used to be less famous than the other two but is now a hotspot for Malbec. It is also a place that is focused on terroir. Uco Valley has several geographical designations of origin (GI). The boundaries of some of these areas are based on soil studies rather than on administrative boundaries, as is the case with the three sub-regions mentioned above.
In 2013, Paraje Altamira became the first IG in the Uco Valley based on soil specifics. The area is close to the town of La Consulta, beautifully situated at the foothills of the Andes Mountains. The special thing about Altamira is its limestone, a soil type that is very unusual in Mendoza.
The family at Finca la Igriega
“We have an alluvial soil with a high presence of calcium carbonate”, says Nicolas Goldberg at Finca Igriega, adding that “the calcium carbonate helps balance the plant’s needs”. But for the character of the wine, he says, the altitude is also important. “Altitude brings cool nights, which enable the plant to rest at night. Also, the light intensity is high, which gives a slow ripening process that keeps the acidity and gives the wine a sensation of freshness.”
“Here at Finca Igriega, we are in the heart of Altamira, at 3,610 feet above sea level. By chance, we bought it… but we knew it was good terroir”.
His father, Marcelo Goldberg, worked in the textile industry. At the beginning of 2000, friends said, ” You have to come and look at this property, and he fell for it. In 2006, he bought 25 hectares. There were no vines; only apples, rocks and white stones. It had water rights, which is very important, as Mendoza gets very little rain.
“We planted Malbec”, says Nicolas, “and so Finca Igriega was born”.
They started by selling their grapes to other producers. A meeting with Felipe Stahlschmidt, 2011, a renowned winemaker, changed things dramatically. With Felipe’s help, they decided to produce their own wines. They started slowly, only from a small portion of their grapes, and even today they only produce around 15,000 bottles. “We could do 10 times more, so 150,000 bottles. We plan to increase, but we will grow little by little”, says Nicolas.
Vineyards at Finca la Igriega with the Andes in the background, Altamira, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, copyright BKWine Photography
BKWine Photography
Later, they also planted Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Sauvignon through top grafting. But Malbec remains the signature variety at Finca La Igriega. And although it is in many ways a typical malbec with its concentration of fruit is also has the freshness that is important to many consumers today. I also feel that the wines have a lovely mouthfeel and texture.
The Wines
The harvest of Malbec is normally mid-March, except for the rosé, which starts at the beginning of March. “We harvest the grapes for our rosé earlier as we want a natural higher acidity”, says Felipe. The Finca La Igriega Malbec Rosé gets a quick press, which, as the Malbec skin is thick, still gives it a lot of colour. The fermentation is slow and cool to protect the aromas. Until bottling in June, the wine stays in stainless steel tanks, partly on its lees (the dead yeast) with some lees stirring (batonnage) to get a good mouthfeel.
Finca La Igriega Conexion Malbec 2022 is a wine with fruit, freshness and vitality. It has no oak ageing, only concrete vats. “Without the oak, you have the effect grape + soil, says Nicolas. It has high drinkability; it is very refreshing, with fresh fruit aromas. They are always looking for natural acidity; they don’t want to add acidity. This is a lovely example of a lighter style Malbec and, as Nicolas says, not always what people expect from a Malbec.
Conexion from Finca La Igriega, Altamira, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, copyright BKWine Photography
BKWine Photography
Finca La Igriega “Blend” 2020 is a more classic Malbec, denser but still with superb freshness. It is fermented at a warmer temperature. Here, they are looking for more extraction and a bit more complexity. Malbec dominates with 70% and is blended with the estate’s three other varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. “This is a Bordeaux blend Altamira style”, says Nicolas. The Blend spend 9 months in 3–4-year-old oak barrels.
Finca La Igriega Malbec Superior 2018 differs from the others in many ways. It is fermented with native yeast in small, open-top barrels, which means a slower fermentation that is completed only after 30-45 days. The cap, that is the skins and the seeds, is regularly punched down manually, twice per day in the beginning and once per day later in the fermentation or according to need. The wine then ages 18 months in first and second-use barrels. Powerful, dense fruit, but not lacking finesse, balanced oak, hint of spices. Serve it with a grilled steak. You will not regret it.
Finca La Igriega’s main export market is the USA.
—Britt Karlsson
Dining and Cooking