Drea’s by Goodfellas in Branford.
Frank Cohen/For Hearst CT Media
The Branford dining scene, like too many, has been quite volatile in the 2020s. While there have been great losses — none more so than French favorite Le Petit Café — there have been great gains as well, chief among them Drea’s by Goodfellas, which opened last November. After all, one man’s closure may be another woman’s opportunity. Drea’s marks Gerry Iannaccone’s return, with life partner Andrea “Drea” Coppola, to the space that, from 2002–2009, lodged his steak-and-fish house, Tenderloin.
Gerry oversees the back of the house, Andrea the front — and you could say the side, as patio seating for up to 50 guests opened in May along Chestnut Street. Gerry is especially proud of their Florence-inspired wine window, first in Connecticut, that can be experienced from that patio. Ring the bell, the window opens, and in short order you can receive a glass of wine, cocktail or mocktail. How fun is that?
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Owners Gerry Iannaccone and Andrea “Drea” Coppola.
Frank Cohen/For Hearst CT Media
Kudos to Andrea for Drea’s superb design. The interior accommodates just 65 seats, but tables are well-spaced so intimacy is assured. Lighting is perfectly calibrated, flattering facial features and Instagrammable fare alike. The walls, square brick support columns, shelves, mirrors, pottery, planters and even tablecloths are white, while the floors and a six-seat, high-top table are dark stained hardwood. A nifty detail: the two-toned, curved-back dining chairs are black on their backs, matching the floor behind them, and beige in front, pulling the color of the pyramid-folded linen napkins on the tables.
The interior of Drea’s by Goodfellas in Branford.
Frank Cohen/For Hearst CT Media
The interior of Drea’s by Goodfellas in Branford.
Frank Cohen/For Hearst CT Media
Drinks ($15) are tone-setters, and despite having room for just a service bar, they are superb. Our gang of four enjoys a Diva-tini, a Sicilian Paloma, a Raspberry Twist, and I, predicably, a Black Manhattan. Afterward, we move on to a lovely, measured 2021 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva from Drea’s nice wine list ($45–$550).
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Cocktails at Drea’s by Goodfellas in Branford.
Frank Cohen/For Hearst CT Media
Gerry’s hospitality always reminds me of life in our southern Italian village, where we can hardly walk down our cobblestone alley without being invited to sit, talk, sip and, often, eat (or, in my lovely wife’s case, be twirled into an impromptu dance). His complimentary bruschetta with ripe plum tomato, red onion, garlic and fresh basil is an abbondanza of what might be offered in many of our local Basilicatan eateries. A couple of Gerry’s classics are carried over from Encore by Goodfellas — pane cotto, meatball salad and his signature filet cognac with Angus beef tenderloin, portobello mushroom, lobster meat and Gorgonzola cream sauce — but mostly it’s uncharted territory and we’re the eager explorers.
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Our waiter, Kenny Hellyar, was so astute and attentive we were not surprised to learn he’s also the manager. Our antipasti ($12–$18) were a blast — literally, in the case of one of our long hot peppers, filled with classic Italian sausage stuffing, that might be too combustible for meek palates, but suits our group perfectly. About one in three long hots packs heat this time of year (one in two deeper into summer). Tuscan grilled shrimp proved delightful with cannellini beans, gremolata and crostini.
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An appetizer at Drea’s by Goodfellas in Branford.
Frank Cohen/For Hearst CT Media
An appetizer at Drea’s by Goodfellas in Branford.
Frank Cohen/For Hearst CT Media
Exceptional yellowfin tuna gently seasoned with chipotle, housemade mayonnaise, salt, pepper and soy and festooned with multigrain crackers makes for an exquisite tartare. Also found at Encore by Goodfellas is an eggplant tower featuring alternating layers of crisp fried eggplant, Liuzzi Mozzarella and tomato drizzled with EVOO and housemade balsamic reduction and littered with torn basil is a visual and gustatory treat.
We plunged into la pasta ($24–$29), the majority of which are housemade. Trofie Genovese, featuring short, thin, little twists in basil pesto and Parmigiano-Reggiano, are a Ligurian classic (to which potato and beans are often added to make it more of a meal).
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Dishes at Drea’s by Goodfellas in Branford.
Frank Cohen/For Hearst CT Media
We tried two different ravioli. An Amalfi classic, ravioli Nerano are filled with zucchini, ricotta and Parmigiano-Reggiano and finished with zucchini crisps, garlic and Provolone. Ravioli Modena probably has more interpretive latitude, ours brilliantly finished with mortadella, ricotta and pistachios in a light cream sauce. Finally, a sumptuous white lasagna combines pasta sheets, béchamel, Liuzzi ricotta, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and black truffle. A side of Gerry’s delicious meatballs provides contrasting acidity.
An dish at Drea’s by Goodfellas in Branford.
Frank Cohen/For Hearst CT Media
An dish at Drea’s by Goodfellas in Branford.
Frank Cohen/For Hearst CT Media
An dish at Drea’s by Goodfellas in Branford.
Frank Cohen/For Hearst CT Media
Complimentary salads come with the secondi piatti ($26–M/P). Veal chop Parmigiana is a showstopper, with a long, Frenched rib projecting from a thick tender breaded chop topped with fresh melted Mozzarella and a luxurious vodka cream sauce. Pork Diane is equally opulent, revealing grilled tenderloin smothered in shiitake mushrooms and shallots with mashed potatoes in a Dijon-mustard-sherry-cream sauce. A short rib ossobuco special showcases rich square cuts of meat over a risotto redolent of the meat and its sauce. Also a special: Chilean seabass. Where most chefs lean into the richness of this fish, I love that Gerry gives it the Francese treatment, lightly egg-battering and sautéing it with white wine, lemon, salt and pepper.
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Save room for the dolce ($10–$12)! We savored a great slab of chocolate layer cake, a Grand Marnier crème brûlée and three flavors of Gelato Giuliana gelatos: cinnamon, apple pie and Amarena cherry. Further gilding the lily, we finished with complimentary cups of palate-cleansing Prosecco-and-limoncello-flavored Sgroppino sorbetto.
An array of gelatos at Drea’s by Goodfellas in Branford.
Frank Cohen/For Hearst CT Media
I have followed Gerry for so long he might think I’m stalking him. Having seen so many chefs wear down over the years, I asked him how he maintains his energy and enthusiasm.
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“You have to pace yourself, learn not to sweat the small stuff, and just keep moving forward,” he mused. “Most of all, I love what I do!”
Dining and Cooking