Grandfather holding grandson
getty
The elderly Italian gentleman had an important ritual that no Sunday dinner would be complete without. He looked at his pride and joy, his beautiful grandson, who looked up to his grandfather as a heroic figure who knew all and could do anything. The little child would always get giddy when his grandpa came toward him with that mischievous look in his eyes as he got out his dropper and splashed a few droplets of Barbera wine, the glorious libation of his people, into the boy’s glass of water.
The Barbera red grape variety, after which the wine is named, became the staple wine for every household in one of the most prestigious Italian wine regions, Piedmont, and eventually, be deemed the “wine of the people.” It would develop the same reputation in the U.S. as a go to Italian red wine with its fresh acidity, round texture and bright fruit; unfortunately, it became overshadowed by its more serious siblings Barolo and Barbaresco, made with the Nebbiolo red grape variety, which had bigger, bolder tannins, seemingly more complexity, and built to age, which automatically ascended them into the fine wine category.
Frasca La Guaragna vineyards
Frasca La Guaragna
Yet, a new winery, Frasca La Guaragna, which was established in 2018, is focusing on producing outstanding Barbera in Piedmont from top sites to show that the “wine of the people” is one that has its own outstanding beauty and complexity that is starting to garner attention in the trendy, downtown Manhattan restaurant scene in NYC.
The Grape Variety Barbera
Old Barbera vine in Frasca La Guaragna’s vineyard
Frasca La Guaragna
Barbera is a native red grape of the Piedmont region, and under any other circumstances, would be a superstar if it weren’t for being in the shadow of Nebbiolo. Since it is a wine that is delicious when made from lesser vineyards, as it will always have a refreshing acidity, delectable fruit and a low amount of tannins, financially, it made more sense to allocate the best vineyards to its Piedmontese neighboring grape Nebbiolo, since Nebbiolo can be harsh and lackluster if not grown in ideal conditions.
Over the years, there has been greater demand for more serious Barbera; the immediate response was to give it more structure by either over-extracting or by using lots of new oak. This style often gives a superficial impression of high-quality wine but misses the opportunity to bring out the ideal characteristics of this multifaceted grape, so Frasca La Guaragna decided to become a game-changer in showcasing the potential of Barbera.
Frasca La Guaragna
Frasca La Guaragna team
Frasca La Guaragna
Frasca La Guaragna’s ambitious mission was ignited by the dynamic partnership between Curt Frasca, an Italian-American entrepreneur and former multi-platinum award-winning record producer, and Matteo Gerbi, a rising-star winemaker in the municipality of Nizza Monferrato in Piedmont, known for its ideal Barbera sites. As they bonded initially over their love of music, specifically music that did not compromise its artistic expression, but most importantly, eventually, they found a brotherhood with each other rooted in their intense passion for Barbera and their frustration that its great potential had been compromised for so long.
For all of those who grew up in multigenerational families in Piedmont, like Matteo Gerbi, the wine of their people was always rooted in Barbera and it held a special place in the hearts of many of the older generation as representing the heart and soul of what connected them to that place, and so giving the drops to their grandchildren was a reminder of what pulsed through their families’ blood for generations. Matteo and Curt are righting the wrong of eclipsing such a precious grape variety for economic reasons by finally giving it the resources and serious attention it deserves, and bringing out the glory known to those grandfathers who sneaked their grandsons a few drops of the wine of their people.
Frasca La Guaragna Barbera lineup
Cathrine Todd
2022 Frasca La Guaragna, Barbera d’Asti DOCG, Piedmont, Italy: 100% Barbera. Comes from three different municipalities: Nizza Monferrato, Agliano Terme and Moasca. Despite this not coming from one municipality, it still is a great way to experience a lovely sense of place and expression of the grape as Matteo and Curt make sure to source from some of the best plots that have a wide range of soils and a range of vine maturity, as well as employing a devoted team that goes above and beyond to be part of the Barbera mission. Lots of fleshy black cherry fruit with juicy cassis flavors, with some fine structure and mouthwatering acidity. The label on this bottle indicates the moon phases that govern vineyard work, promising great results. Suggested retail price: $22.
2021 Frasca La Guaragna, Nizza DOCG, Piedmont, Italy: 100% Barbera from vines averaging around 35 years old, sourced from the municipalities of Nizza Monferrato, Agliano Terme and Moasca. Lovely, lifted, and airy quality to the nose, with spices complemented by juicy raspberry flavors and broken earth, with finely etched tannins that form a beautifully stitched, laced pattern. The label represents the butterfly’s flight, mirroring the delicate elegance that is expressly Nizza. Suggested retail price: $35.
2021 Frasca La Guaragna “La Veja” Nizza DOCG, Piedmont, Italy: 100% Barbera from a vineyard that has vines over 90 years old. A multilayered, intensely concentrated with gobs of black cherry fruit mingled with aniseed and a touch of forest floor, with a sensual, voluptuously-textured body that offers an extraordinary purity. The label is symbolic of a great oak being blown by the wind, yet its roots are too deep for it to fear the weather. Suggested retail price: $65.
Frasca La Guaragna “Sèj” Monferrato Bianco DOC
Cathrine Todd
2024 Frasca La Guaragna “Sèj” Monferrato Bianco DOC, Piedmont, Italy: 85% Arneis and 15% Rhine Riesling. Arneis is a special native grape to Piedmont that has become another favorite from the Frasca La Guaragna lineup, and this bottling is even more intriguing with the addition of a small amount of Rhine Riesling. Thrilling smoky minerality on the nose with an abundance of floral aromatics that is laced with a citrus salinity, such as lemon confit, that has marked acidity and finishing aromas of seashell, making this a gorgeously gastronomic wine. Flashes of the Guaragna estate, where Frasca La Guaragna’s vineyards are located, that is lit by the starry sky on a summer night, are artistically expressed on this label. Suggested retail price: $24.
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