How does a self-built smoker in a Texas driveway become the world’s first Michelin-starred barbecue restaurant? At LeRoy & Lewis in Austin, co-owner and pitmaster Evan LeRoy has spent years redefining what barbecue can be. Follow Evan through three days of whole-hog barbecue, from the arrival of the pigs to the 4 a.m. fire-up and a 14-hour smoke before service. Along the way, he shares the philosophy behind his “new-school barbecue,” where every part of the animal is celebrated—from pulled whole hog and pork hop sausage to pork hash and rice, cornbread enriched with hog lard, and a pork smash burger.
Dining and Cooking