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Meatloaf has a tired reputation, and I understand why. For most folks it is the same brick of ground meat baked in a pan that it has always been, set down on the table out of duty more than joy, a heavy gray slab that fills you but does not excite you. And so meatloaf became the thing you make when you cannot think of anything else, the plain weeknight brick. But it does not have to be that.
In this video I am going to show you a way to take that same humble pound of ground meat and turn it into something that will make your family sit up and ask what on earth you have done. We are going to roll it. Instead of a brick, we pat the seasoned meat out thin, and we lay a filling over it, a layer of buttery spinach, a layer of golden mushrooms and onion, a blanket of melting cheese, and then we roll the whole thing up like a great savory log. So that when you slice it at the table, each slice opens up to show a beautiful spiral of meat wrapped around its green and golden filling. It is the same cheap ground meat. It is just rolled and stuffed the old way, what the old cooks called a roulade, and it looks far fancier than it is.
Here is what you will learn:
✔ How to season and bind the meat so the roll holds together
✔ Why grated onion keeps the meat moist where chopped onion will not
✔ The right way to wilt and dry the spinach so the roll is not soggy
✔ How to cook the mushrooms past their water for deep flavor
✔ How to spread the meat thin and even for a roll that cooks right
✔ The parchment paper trick that makes rolling it easy
✔ Why you leave a bare border so the filling does not squeeze out
✔ The honest tomato and brown sugar glaze, no soy or fancy bottles
✔ Why you glaze it near the end so the sugar does not scorch
✔ How to make creamy parsley mashed potatoes to serve alongside
You do not need a costly cut and you do not need any special skill. You need a cheap pound of ground meat, a few humble vegetables, a sheet of parchment paper, and a little care. And when you set down that handsome glazed roll and slice into it to show the spiral inside, the dark meat wound around its green and golden filling, your family will think you fussed all day over something dear, when in truth it was the same cheap meat you might have baked into a plain brick. The care was always the secret, never the cost.
Now tell me something down in the comments. What did your family do to dress up plain ground meat, the stuffed cabbage or the meatballs or the rolls or whatever clever thing turned the cheapest meat into something special? Every thrifty kitchen had its way, and I would dearly love to hear yours. Tell me.
Next time I am going to show you one of the great waste-nothing wonders of the fall, the thing the old families did with a whole orchard’s worth of apples so that nothing was lost and the sweetness of autumn lasted clear through the winter. I am going to show you how to make apple butter, simmered down slow and dark and thick in a great kettle, stirred for hours until it turns to a deep sweet spread that keeps for a year and tastes of the whole season in a spoonful. It is one of the finest, most patient things a kitchen ever made.
Until then, take good care of the ones at your table. And keep a kitchen that knows the humblest meat, dressed with a little care, becomes the supper they remember.
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9 Comments
Thnnyut
Pictures need to match description, I can't send that to my aging mom !
I've made a similar but used ketchup flavored with maple sugar or brown sugar and I put chives not parsley in the potatoes
This works good with pounded beef slices too…with a mushroom gravy over it!
Yes Pictures need to match description, I can send this good.
I agree. The pictures are disturbing, totally wrong. Why can't you just make a live video of the actual preparation?
When I was a child my mother would make what she called pigs in blankets, but what now are called cabbage rolls. Inside the wilted cabbage she would have have a mixture of ground beef and rice. She would roast them in the oven in a generous amount of tomato sauce, with onions. garlic and salt and pepper. Because this was a bit more work on her part, it was considered a treat when she made it.
Why are some of the pics of pork and chicken or turkey?
Mine doesnt look like that! It is delicious.