Voila Cafe opened June 13 in the Oxbow building, taking over the former home of Arrosta. The fast-casual French bistro is the latest creation from Stephane Raveneau, who launched Sweet Paris Café & Crêperie at The Shops at La Cantera in 2019.
“All dishes will be authentically French,” Raveneau said in a news release. “Our sandwiches will feature bread made daily with butter and flour imported from France, and our menu will focus on the classics you can find there, like Croque Madame — a classic French ham and cheese sandwich topped with fried or poached egg, often served with béchamel sauce for a rich, creamy flavor, and Croque Monsieur — cooked ham and three cheeses, such as Gruyère, Emmental, or Comté, topped with béchamel sauce to add creamy richness, and sometimes a sprinkle of grated cheese before being baked or fried to create a golden, crispy crust, as well as a nicoise salad and a variety of paninis.”
I dropped in for lunch today and gave the menu a test drive. Croque madame, pan bagnat, country pâté (one of a few dishes that double as a Meals on Wheels benefit), crème brûlée. And, of course, French onion soup — billed in French as Soupe a L’Oignon Gratinee.
Voila isn’t reinventing the wheel. The menu reads like a greatest-hits list. But the operation was built for speed, not breaking new ground. I ordered a half dozen dishes plus some extras from the pastry case at the counter, and food arrived at the table within 5 minutes.
The newcomer fills a void on Broadway left by the departure of La Madeleine a few blocks away in Alamo Heights. It also breathes fresh life into a restaurant space that has sat vacant since Arrosta shuttered two years ago. Chances are, Wemby won’t be too impressed with the offerings, but it’s a fast and affordable option with far more ambition than a trip to Bill Miller or Whataburger farther down Broadway. If you’re in the downtown area, add this one to your list of solid lunch options. And yes, they validate parking for up to 90 minutes in the Oxbow’s parking garage.
The Voila Cafe concept has been marinating in Raveneau’s head for the past two decades, according to the news release. And at first blush, he’s succeeded in his mission.
“It is a beautiful, comfortable, laidback and inexpensive restaurant with good, original French food,” he wrote. “Most importantly, there is no pretentiousness here.”
Voila Cafe, 1803 Broadway, 210-231-0051, voilacafes.com. Hours: 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday and 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday. Breakfast is served till 3 p.m. daily.
Dining and Cooking