Julia Child wasn’t one to shy away from impassioned reactions to food. The chef and author was famous for her unabashed love for butter, which was one of her favorite foods, and, of course, French cuisine. In one episode of her TV show “The French Chef,” Child described the texture and flavor of a simple chocolate mousse that could bring “tears to your eyes when you taste it.” Throughout the nearly 30-minute mousse-making tutorial, Child imparts all sorts of helpful cooking tips, instructing the viewer on how to conquer egg whites, create a sugar syrup with instant coffee, and display proper folding technique. She even sits down for a “chocolate mousse” party. However, she doesn’t appear to actually shed a tear.
There was one dessert, however, that caused Child to visibly cry and become emotional on camera. That tear-inducing dish was Nancy Silverton’s crème fraîche brioche tart. The tart, composed of a buttery brioche dough, was filled with crème fraîche custard and garnished with an assortment of fruit, nuts, and a luxurious sauce.
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A dessert worth crying over
Julia Child posing with vegetables and a bottle of wine – George Rose/Getty Images
Silverton, then owner of La Brea Bakery in Los Angeles, walked Child through the tart recipe in a 1997 episode from of “Baking with Julia,” Season 3. The program, which ran for three seasons, saw Child, accompanied by industry experts, imparting recipes and illustrating culinary techniques. In this particular episode, Silverton shares the detailed process of making, shaping, and baking the brioche dough, whisking together a crème fraîche mixture and adorning the dessert with sautéed and sliced stone fruits, toasted nuts, and powdered sugar.
The dish is a labor of love and stars what Silverton calls a “secret sauce” of caramelized sugar and fresh vanilla beans, white wine, and whipped cream. The resulting pastry is a decadent, fluffy tart, accented with jewel-toned fruit and plenty of cream. After baking, the two try the tart on screen. “A good combination?” Silverton asks. After a pause, and with a clear quiver to her voice, Child responds, “It’s a dessert to cry over.”
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Dining and Cooking