Several years ago, when Boka Restaurant Group founders Rob Katz and Kevin Boehm first visited the site of newly opened Alla Vita in Wedgewood-Houston, it was nothing but a gravel parking lot.
Ben Weprin, their longtime friend and the CEO of AJ Capital, had suggested the partners come to Nashville from Chicago so he could show them his vision for the neighborhood. “Kevin and I flew out there, and we sort of got a glimpse of Ben’s vision,” Rob says. They drove around on the developer’s “beat-up Polaris four-wheeler” scoping out the area. “We had to squint very hard to try and see what he was seeing,” Rob adds. “Because three-and-a-half, four years ago, Wedgewood-Houston was nothing like it is today.”
The group is now so committed to the area that they’ve opened three concepts on Nashville’s Houston Street in quick succession — Japanese restaurant Momotaro, cocktail bar Middleman, and the latest, Italian eatery Alla Vita, which opened in mid-June. The Music City restaurant marks the brand’s second location, the first being in Chicago.
On a recent Friday night at Alla Vita, the energy was palpable. “Good Thing” by pop rock ’80s band Fine Young Cannibals pulsed through the speakers. In the greenery-filled dining room, the air conditioning — mimicking a breeze — caused the subtly lit Italian chiffon hanging from the ceiling to sway. The space is intended to channel the feeling of a seaside eatery in Italy.
As we headed to our table, we passed an ornately carved host stand, blue velvet banquettes and wood tables with neon-yellow bases. We dined under a massive pergola (fitting, given the outside-in theme) near a dramatic “belt wall.” That art piece was created by Chicago-based Kehoe Designs, who helmed the restaurant’s design and specializes in transforming event spaces in an innovative, “anything is possible” way. After working with Tom Kehoe on numerous occasions, Rob asked him if he’d ever thought about designing a restaurant. Alla Vita in Chicago was his first.
The restaurant, which seats 110 guests, has a private dining room with sheer curtains that can divide it into various configurations, allowing for flexible seating.
Lee Wolen, a Michelin-starred executive chef and Boka Restaurant Group partner, oversees the kitchen. The thoughtfully crafted menu — highlighted by pasta made in house — is designed to be approachable, with something for everyone.
The restaurant is open for dinner seven days a week, and there’s valet parking.
Nick Podraza
Attention to Detail
There’s always an unexpected design detail to discover at Alla Vita. Renowned New Orleans-based artist Diane Killeen hand painted a floral design on the wood floors. Some of the dining tables echo the same motif. “But not every table,” Rob says.
He describes the restaurant’s design as “deliberate.” “You want people to come in and every time they come in, they notice something different,” he says. “[Like], ‘Oh wow, look at that table base.’” The partners even hit GasLamp Antiques in Berry Hill to find one-of-a-kind pieces.
Labor of Love
Things were very hectic leading up to opening day. Dining chairs got stuck in customs, so the team had to pinch-hit. The partners set up shop in Nashville, going back and forth to Chicago, while staying here for long stretches of time.
“It was like our hair was on fire, but every detail matters,” Rob says. “It’s very personal to all of us, and we just want to make people happy that are coming into our restaurants.”
Nick Podraza
Dinner Is Served
The menu includes wood-fired meatballs and a Liuzzi burrata with marinated cherries, tomato and pine nuts, to start. Homemade pastas include spring pea cappelletti with chanterelle mushrooms, corn and pecorino del parco, and tagliatelle with beef shank ragu, Parmesan and oregano. Rounding out the menu is grilled branzino and roasted bone-in ribeye.
For dessert, try the limoncello panna cotta with blood orange, black lime and basil, or the dark chocolate torta with malted milk, brown butter and caramel. There’s also an impressive selection of Italian wines and craft cocktails.
Dining and Cooking