August 6, 2026 — 5:00am
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That one place in: San Giovanni, Rome
Chef Sarah Cicolini (second from right) with her kitchen team.Andrea Di LorenzoWhere
Santo Palato
Why
If you’re wondering where San Giovanni is, you’re probably not alone. This is a working-class neighbourhood well outside Rome’s touristy centre, in the city’s south-east. The Baths of Caracalla, an underrated Roman ruin, is nearby, but for the most part San Giovanni is residential and unremarkable, a pleasant place to spend time, though not one with attractions that make the tourist maps. That is, with one exception: Santo Palato, a small trattoria that has become a must-visit for those keen to sample the best of modern Roman cuisine.
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The menu at Santo Palato.Andrea di Lorenzo
Santo Palato is the work of Sarah Cicolini, a highly talented chef from the Abruzzo region who has mastered the classic dishes of her adopted home, while also shaping its future. Cicolini knows when to restrain herself, offering beautiful, untouchable classics such as bruschetta and rigatoni alla carbonara. However, she also shows great creativity, particularly when it comes to quinto quarto, or the fifth quarter, the unwanted cuts and offal that Romans have traditionally eaten. Cicolini’s dishes pair with an extensive and carefully chosen wine list, making Santo Palato well worth the journey off the beaten track.
Order this 
A classic – rigatoni carbonara at Santo Palato.
Sample a few recognisable dishes, then trust Cicolini as she leads you into unknown territory on a foodie adventure. The carbonara at Santo Palato is excellent, as is the amatriciana, but then find yourself digging into smoked beef heart with tomatoes, or lamb tartare with pickled strawberries. Trust in the process, and you will be fine.
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Eat it here
We’re looking for Italian restaurants here that push the boundaries, that will take you to the streets of Rome. In Melbourne, Tipo 00 is a favourite for a reason (tipo00.com.au). In Sydney, try Pellegrino 2000 (pellegrino2000.com). In Adelaide, check out Osteria Oggi (osteriaoggi.com.au).
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Santo Palato is in San Giovanni, accessible from the Porta Metronia metro station. It’s open for lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday, and lunch only on Sundays. Meals here cost about €60 ($100) a person without wine. Bookings are essential, and can be done via the restaurant’s website. See santopalatoroma.it
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Ben Groundwater is a Sydney-based travel writer, columnist, broadcaster, author and occasional tour guide with more than 25 years’ experience in media, and a lifetime of experience traversing the globe. He specialises in food and wine – writing about it, as well as consuming it – and at any given moment in time Ben is probably thinking about either ramen in Tokyo, pintxos in San Sebastian, or carbonara in Rome. Follow him on Instagram @bengroundwaterConnect via email.From our partners
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