Paul Thomas Anderson and Alana Haim were spotted at the French bistro’s post-renovation preview
A 38-year-old French restaurant in the San Fernando Valley is working to become L.A.’s latest It locale for late nights over great cocktails and even greater food.
First opened in 1988 by Henri Abergel, Mistral in Sherman Oaks underwent a quiet ownership change last fall that resulted in a mid-summer revamp. Mistral 2.0 is now open, featuring renovated interiors and a refreshed menu.
“To regulars, both nothing is different and also everything is different,” says restaurateur Jonah Freedman (Freedman’s, Greekman’s), who reopened Mistral alongside partner and culinary director Josh Migdal (also formerly of Greekman’s).
“That was intentional.”
While Freedman originally hails from Toronto, Migdal grew up in the Valley and got word from his dad — who occasionally dined at Mistral over the years — that Abergel was looking to retire. “I don’t know that people necessarily had the idea or intention to relaunch it as Mistral,” Freedman says, explaining other parties had interest in buying the restaurant but to no avail. “I think there was just a bit of alignment of hope for the space from him and vision for the space from us.”
Credit: Shelby Moore
Freedman and Migdal took over around late October 2025, easing into Mistral before closing for a few weeks this summer. The restaurateur speaks excitedly of the extensive new millwork along the walls and plentiful red banquettes. “It was less about trying to get more people in the space and just making the space feel more intimate and sexy.”
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Across the 50-seat interior (which also has a 60-seat back patio), a joie de vivre quintessential to an NYC restaurant radiates across the dining room. Visitors sit tucked into the bar, two-tops or u-shaped booths, just as Abergel did on the first night of Mistral’s friends and family preview — a table overflowing with friends, inclusive of Paul Thomas Anderson and Alana Haim.
“It was a pretty special moment to have [Henri] in and to see the space and see what we’ve done and to get his approval,” Freedman says.
Credit: Shelby Moore
As the preview unfolded, waiters in white collared button-ups moved quickly to fill tables with cold martinis and glasses of vino from French sommelier Julia Djaoui’s wine list. Mistral has a whole section on its beverage menu devoted to the stiff classic cocktail, with options ranging from espresso and porn star to bright, briny and classic. Freeman was especially delighted to see a few Jaguars hit tables, one of his personal favorites which shakes up Suerte blanco tequila with Amaro Montenegro, green chartreuse and orange bitters.
Below glistening chandeliers, he also recalls seeing quite a few branzino dishes land on the white tablecloths. Their rendition is lightly poached, topped with a warm panzanella and finished with shiso leaf. “I like those moments that exist throughout the menu where there are some surprising elements,” Freedman muses. His aim is to take the classics and push things just a little further. Vadouvan curry powder tops “cigars” filled with goat cheese and honey, while mussels rest in a fennel-forward broth. These touches flicker across Mistral, from the menu to the design and decor. Next time you dine, keep an eye out for the restaurant’s unofficial mascot: a pigeon emblazoned on plates and menus.
Traditionalists can find comfort in the likes of escargot, French onion soup and steak frites (from which guests can choose among a filet, New York strip, hanger and bone-in ribeye for two). “Even the pepper sauce with the orange zest through it really elevates it to a different level and introduces a bit of brightness and acid to something that can sometimes be a little one note,” he says of one of the steak sauce options. “I think adding things that feel a little bit more dynamic.”
Credit: Shelby Moore
Credit: Shelby Moore
In its new chapter, Mistral carries over house accounts for its special, longtime diners — something that remains an open possibility to others than earn the other. But Freedman also hopes to rope in a wider, younger demographic. The bistro offers a “night owl” menu — no reservation needed — that cuts a bill by 25% for diners who take a seat between 9 and 9:30 p.m. on weekdays and 9:30 and 10 p.m. on weekends.
“L.A. can be hard late at night,” he says. “We really want to get people in that space later. It’s an unbelievably vibey, fun, sexy space. It’s a beautiful space to transition into more of a drinking scene later in the evening.”
Come late fall, Mistral will take full shape as an evening destination. The restaurant’s adjoining space is set to become a raw bar, Henri’s. Freedman envisions diners enjoying a cocktail and some oysters and then, if seeking a full meal, head next door. The opposite route works with Henri’s planned to transition into a cocktail bar later at night. It’s all in an effort to cultivate warm hospitality and foster a place known for an “fun dining room. “Great food, [too]” he is also sure to point out, “with a slight unexpected twist on it. Something that is almost better than it needs to be.”
Credit: Shelby Moore
Mistral is located at 13422 Ventura Blvd. in Sherman Oaks. It is open daily at 5 p.m.
Dining and Cooking