A Perth hospitality guru is breathing new life into one of Subiaco’s most iconic dining spots, opening a new Italian bistro on a site that has been home to its fair share of short-term hospitality tenants.
Al Canto opened its doors at 483 Hay Street on September 2, taking over the site most recently occupied by Mexican restaurant La Condesa, which closed in early 2025. Rice Baby operated from the site between 2016 and 2020.
Long before those two venues came onto the scene, the site was home to one of Subiaco’s most popular late-night venues, Oriel, which operated between 1988 and 2010.
Al Canto’s owner Stefano Rossi, who is behind iconic Perth venues such as The Kiosk at Floreat Beach and Beach St Co in Fremantle and still run Koorak in Kings Park, said “there were plenty of rooms in Subiaco built for being noticed”.
“We wanted to build the other kind. Somewhere you bring the people you like, eat well, drink well, and don’t think twice about it,” he said.
Camera IconRice Baby in Subiaco. Credit: Sharon Smith/The West Australian
The Venetian-born hospitality operator has drawn on his Italian roots for the venue, with Al Canto serving Italian food with a Venetian influence.
The venue encourages people to attend with friends or family, or people from work or a club after a game, guaranteeing a good night in good company.
According to Al Canto, the prices are set to suit a casual night rather than a special one.
Camera IconLa Condesa in Subiaco. Credit: Cubbage Photo
The courtyard, also known as Derriere, is undercover and offers food that is a little lighter with drinks to be served to the table. It is described as a place that on a warm evening most people won’t want to leave.
The counter is open from 7am for coffee and breakfast, lunch follows, and aperitivo arrives around 3 in the afternoon, when spritzes and small plates take over and the pace eases off. Dinner is full table service.
“The test of a place like this isn’t opening week,” Mr Rossi said.
Camera IconStefano Rossi outside the new Italian bistro. Credit: Supplied
“It’s a Tuesday six months from now. The regulars, the familiar faces, someone in for a coffee in the morning who’s back for a drink that night. That’s what we’re building towards.”
According to Mr Rossi, in its first week of opening Al Canto is already seeing faces return, with some locals in most days since the door opened.
“That’s the part you can’t manufacture,” he said.
Camera IconAl Canto is open seven days a week from 7am to 10pm. Credit: Al Canto
“People deciding, on their own, that this is where they’d rather be.”
Al Canto is open 7am-10pm seven days a week.
Dining and Cooking