Il Italian salami It represents the pinnacle of fermentation engineering that transforms select pork meats into stable products with a complex aromatic profile. The excellence of this sector is based on certified scientific rigor, a regulatory framework updated to the decree of August 8, 2025, and a robust protection system based on Geographical Indications (PDO and PGI). The following analysis explores the biochemical complexity of maturation, examines designations of origin, and the strategic guidelines of the supply chain: sustainability, animal welfare, and organic certification (clean label).
From Roman ‘salumen’ to pork butchering: a brief history of salami
The origins of salami are lost in the history of Mediterranean nutrition. In ancient Rome, the term salamen It referred to any food preserved with salt, an indispensable practice before the advent of refrigeration. The first evidence of cured sausages made from minced pork dates back to themedieval era, when the domestic slaughter of pigs became a collective ritual of Italian rural communities, celebrated in the winter months between November and January.
Of Figure butcher —an itinerant artisan specialized in pork processing, originally from the Umbrian town of Norcia—played a key role in the dissemination and refinement of production techniques. Between the 15th and 16th centuries, pork butchers formed recognized guilds in Italy’s major cities, contributing to the codification of regional recipes that would become the basis of the specialties protected today by Geographical Indications.
Each region developed its own variations: fat and lean in different proportions, more or less fine grain, spiced with pepper, garlic, fennel or chilli pepper, matured in natural cellars or caves. This gastronomic biodiversity regional is the direct legacy of centuries of artisan knowledge and adaptation to local resources — pig breeds, microclimate, environmental microbial flora.
Fermentation and maturation technology
The quality and safety of salami depend largely on the technological process of fermentation and seasoningProduction is divided into the following main phases:
preparing the dough. Pork is minced and mixed with salt, spices, and sometimes small amounts of added sugars to support fermentation. Some production processes use selected starter cultures of lactic acid bacteria, which can direct fermentation toward the desired flavor profiles and ensure greater microbiological safety (Dongo, 2023).
fermentation. During fermentation, lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus, Pediococcus and others) transform sugars into lactic acid, resulting in a lowering of the pH, development of aroma, and improvement of microbiological safety. Coagulase-negative staphylococci (CNS), such as Staphylococcus xylosus, S. carnosus, contribute in parallel to the stabilization of the color and the initiation of lipolysis;
drying. The product undergoes a drying period which reduces surface humidity and prepares the salami for curing;
seasoning. Ripening takes place in temperature and humidity controlled environments and can last from a few weeks to several months, depending on the size.
Proteolysis
During the maturing process the muscle proteins are degraded by the action of endogenous endopeptidases (cathepsins B, D, H, L and calpains) and, in a subsequent phase, by microbial proteases. This progressive degradation releases peptides low molecular weight and free amino acids, which contribute to the umami sensory notes (Dongo, 2025) and are precursors of aromatic aldehydes (Gallego et al., 2018; Toldrá et al., 2023). Proteolysis also affects the texture of the finished product: the degradation of the main myofibrillar proteins—myosin, actin, α-actinin—alters the cohesion of the slice, giving it the typical consistency of cured salami (Zheng et al., 2024).
Lipolysis
La lipolysis is equally crucial for the sensory profile. Endogenous lipases and microbial lipases (especially of staphylococcal origin) hydrolyze triglycerides into free fatty acids, which are then oxidized to form a wide range of volatile compounds — straight and branched chain aldehydes, ketones, alcohols, esters — responsible for the characteristic aromatic notes of cured salami, including the typical nutty, malty, and chocolatey nuances attributable to derivatives of the branched-chain amino acids leucine, isoleucine, and valine (Ferrocino et al., 2018; Woldemariam et al., 2024). Excessive lipolysis, however, can lead to rancidity and organoleptic defects: the correct calibration of starter strains and curing parameters is therefore essential for quality control.
Italian Salami: Legal Requirements
The inter-ministerial decree of 8 August 2025 – containing the ‘regulation of the production and sale of certain cured meat products’ — establishes the requirements that a product Made in Italy must comply in order to be presented and marketed in Italy as ‘salami’. Details to follow.
Definition
‘Without prejudice to the provisions established in this matter by the production specifications for salami recognised as a Geographical Indication pursuant to Regulation (EU) 2024/1143, the term ‘salami’ the delicatessen product, consisting of meat obtained from striated muscles belonging mainly to the carcass of swine with the addition of salt, including iodized salt, potassium chloride and sodium substitutes and eventually di meat of other species animals, ground and mixed with grasso pork in variable proportions, and stuffed into gut natural or artificial’.
‘The definition of salami does not affect the use of names that refer to products of a different nature’ [ex. chocolate salami, ed.], ‘provided that they are not confused with the products regulated by the decree’.
‘The salami is dried and seasoned in climatic conditions which, during a gradual reduction in humidity, can determine the evolution of natural fermentative and enzymatic phenomena such as to bring about modifications that give the product its typical organoleptic characteristics and such as to guarantee conservation and wholesomeness under normal room temperature conditions’.
‘The product that contains mechanically separated meats It cannot be sold under the name ‘salami’ or similar terms’ (DM 8.8.25, article 17 – Definition).
Ingredients
‘In the preparation of salami it is permitted to use wine, vinegar (including balsamic vinegar), brandy and other spirits, honey, truffle, cheese, nuts, pepper, garlic, spices and aromatic plants, sugar, dextrose, fructose, lactose, skimmed milk powder, milk proteins, microbial cultures for fermentation starters, flavourings, permitted additives with the exception of colourings.’ (DM 8.8.25, article 18 – Ingredients).
Although the regulatory framework allows the use of nitrite-based preservative additives to ensure safety against Clostridium botulinum, the Italian industry is at the forefront in research into bacterial cultures ed plant extracts (rich in polyphenols and natural antioxidants) capable of partially or totally replacing traditional preservatives (Dongo, 2023).
Production methodology
‘The muscle and fat fractions are ground and mixed with salt and other ingredients and stuffed into casings or casings.
The salami is then dried and cured, which guarantees its preservation and wholesomeness under normal room temperature conditions.
It is permitted to treat the casings or casings on the surface with microbial cultures, cereal flours, starches, oils and food fats’ (DM 8.8.25, article 19 – Production methodology).
Features
‘The salami has a mesophilic microbial load greater than 1 x 10 to the seventh colony-forming unit/gram with a prevalence of lactobacillaceae and coccaceae.
On the market, salami has a pH greater than or equal to 4,9′. An essential parameter, it is underlined, for the stability of the product at room temperature (DM 8.8.25, article 20 – Features).
Introduction
‘It is permitted to sell salami loose or vacuum-packed or in a protective atmosphere, whole, in pieces, sliced or otherwise portioned.’ (DM 8.8.25, article 21 – Introduction).
Nutritional properties of salami
Nutritional characteristics can vary depending on several factors, primarily the ratio of lean meat to fat, as well as the length of curing. According to CREA, 100 grams of Milano salami—which leads the way in production and sales—provide:
fat: 31 g, of which saturated fatty acids 11 g; monounsaturated 15,4 g; polyunsaturated 3,3 g;
From the point of view of micronutrients, the richness in Potassium (657 mg per 100 g, equal to 32,9% of the Nutritional Reference Value established in Annex XIII of the Food Information Regulation (EU) No 1169/11 – and the presence of phosphorus (204 mg, equal to 29,1% of the NRV).
The relatively high content of saturated fat and salt suggests its moderate consumption as part of a balanced diet.
Italian DOP and IGP salamis
Italy has numerous cured meat specialities protected by PDO and PGI, European tools that guarantee authenticity, quality and connection with the territory of origin (Salumitalia, 2026).
Italian salami with Geographical Indication
Varzi salami
PDO
Lombardy (Oltrepò Pavese)
Coarse grain, sweet and delicate flavour, only premium cuts allowed.
Brianza Salami
PDO
Lombardia
Available in both fine and coarse grain; compact consistency
Piacenza Salami
PDO
Emilia Romagna and Lombardy
Coarse grain with evident white lardons; light aroma of garlic and wine
Italian Salami Cacciatore Style
PDO
Entire national territory
Small size (max 350g), ideal for on-the-go consumption
Cremona salami
IGP
Lombardy, Emilia, Piedmont, Veneto
Typical aroma of crushed garlic; very soft and moist dough
Piedmont Salami
IGP
Piedmont
Characterized by the addition of red wine with a designation of origin (e.g. Barbera, Nebbiolo)
Feline salami
IGP
Emilia-Romagna (Parma)
Elongated cylindrical shape, medium grain, very sweet flavour thanks to the low salting
Sant’Angelo Salami
IGP
Sicily (Messina)
Produced with knife-cut meat; the only Sicilian PGI
Mortara Goose Salami
IGP
Lombardy (Pavia)
A mixture of goose and pork; sweet flavor and soft texture, typical of local Jewish tradition.
Sauce Salami
IGP
Emilia-Romagna (Ferrara)
Cookable salami, extremely aromatic and spicy, served hot with mashed potatoes
These denominations include production regulations rigorous, which establish, among other things: characteristics of the raw materials, geographical production area, processing techniques, minimum maturing times, quality controls throughout the supply chain.
The different salamis are also distinguished by the fermentation kinetics: the salamis fine grain (such as Milano or some types of Brianza) have a different oxidation surface compared to those in grana grossa (like Varzi), with a direct influence on the activity of the lipases and thus on the final aromatic bouquet.
Geographical Indications – now protected in the European Union pursuant to the reg. (EU) 2024/1143 – represent a fundamental tool for protecting denominations and thus the authentic identity of traditional products tied to their territories, as well as combating fraud.
Regional salami: a heritage of gastronomic biodiversity
Alongside the certified DOP and IGP products, there is a great variety of traditional regional salamis, often recognised as traditional food products (PAT).
Among the best known in the North part Italy: Milanese salami, Mantua salami, Bergamo salami, Verona salami, Veneto garlic salami, Friulian salami, Trentino salami. Centro Italy: Roman corallina, salami from L’Aquila, salami from the Marche, Tuscan salami, Umbrian salami. South and in the islands: Calabrian soppressata, Lucanian salami, Neapolitan salami, Sardinian salami, Nebrodi black pig salami.
This diversity reflects the cultural and agricultural richness of the Italian territories, the variety of native pig breeds and local gastronomic traditions.
Animal welfare, sustainability, and organic certification
In recent years, the Italian cured meats supply chain has become increasingly involved in the transition to more sustainable production models. Three aspects are particularly relevant for the international market:
il animal welfare, subject to mandatory rules and voluntary standards – including those contained in the specifications of Geographical Indication supply chains – which regulate weaning and feed quality, breeding conditions, health management and stress reduction in the various phases up to transport and the final phase;
la certificazione Biological, a growing segment that involves pig farming in strict compliance with Regulation (EU) 2018/848 with specific requirements regarding space available to the animals, their feeding with non-GMO organic feed, and limits on the use of antibiotics;
la reduction of environmental impact It involves the energy efficiency of the plants, the sustainable management of zootechnical waste, the valorisation of co-products in a circular economy logic, the reduction of packaging and the use of sustainable packaging materials.
Gastronomic uses
Salami plays a central role in Italian gastronomy: platters of cured meats and appetizers, sandwiches and buns, pizzas and piadina, condiments for first courses, ingredients for savory pies. The different types lend themselves to pairings with rustic bread, aged cheeses, pickles, and full-bodied rather than sparkling red wines (e.g., Lambrusco DOC).
Advice for buyers and importers
For gourmet consumers, the fundamental criteria for choosing a quality salami include: certified origin (DOP or IGP), ‘clean label’, adequate curing, use of natural casing. Salami with organic certification They represent a particularly interesting choice for those who want products obtained with respect for animal welfare and the environment.
For importers and international buyers, supplier selection should also consider food safety certifications, production capacity, and supply chain traceability, as well as regulatory compliance in destination markets.
The Eurobursar GIFT (Great Italian Food Trade) offers support to international buyers in the search and selection of reliable Italian suppliers, promoting access to high-quality products, including regional specialties and organic cured meats.
Conclusions
Italian salami is one of the most authentic and popular symbols of Made in Italy food. Its centuries-old history, extraordinary regional diversity, and numerous quality designations testify to the richness of Italian food culture. Today, the supply chain faces new challenges related to sustainability, animal welfare, the growing demand for organic products, and clean labels—elements that are increasingly crucial for consumers and international markets. Promoting Geographical Indications and quality products remains a key strategy for strengthening the competitiveness of Made in Italy.
Dario Dongo
Cover credit: Institute for the Promotion of Italian Cured Meats
References
Ferrocino, I., Bellio, A., Giordano, M., Macori, G., Romano, A., Rantsiou, K., Decastelli, L., & Cocolin, L. (2018). Shotgun metagenomics and volatile profile of the microbiota of fermented sausages. Applied and Environmental Microbiology, 84(3), e02120-17. https://doi.org/10.1128/AEM.02120-17
Gallego, M., Mora, L., Escudero, E., & Toldrá, F. (2018). Bioactive peptides and free amino acids profiles in different types of European dry-fermented sausages. International Journal of Food Microbiology, 27671-78. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijfoodmicro.2018.04.009
Regulation (EU) 2024/1143 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 11 April 2024 on geographical indications for wine, spirit drinks and agricultural products, as well as traditional specialties guaranteed and optional quality terms for agricultural products. http://data.europa.eu/eli/reg/2024/1143/oj
Toldrá, F. (2017). Biochemistry of fermented meat. In B. K. Simpson, L. M. L. Nollet, F. Toldrá, S. Benjakul, G. Paliyath, & Y. H. Hui (Eds.), Food biochemistry and food processing (2nd ed., pp. 331–343). Wiley-Blackwell.
Toldrá, F., Gallego, M., Reig, M., Aristoy, M.-C., & Mora, L. (2023). Bioactive peptides in meat and meat products. Meat and Muscle Biology, 7(3). https://doi.org/10.22175/mmb.16243
Woldemariam, H. W., Wu, C., Li, C., Hu, Y., Ma, J., & Xu, B. (2024). Impact of lactic acid bacteria on the flavor profile of salami and role of microbial diversity and functional gene. Journal of Food Biochemistry, 2024, 6073261. https://doi.org/10.1155/jfbc/6073261
Zheng, S. S., Wang, C. Y., Hu, Y. Y., Yang, L., & Xu, B. C. (2024). Enhancement of fermented sausage quality driven by mixed starter cultures: Elucidating the perspective of flavor profile and microbial communities. Food Research International, 178, 113951. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodres.2024.113951
Dario Dongo, lawyer and journalist, PhD in international food law, founder of WIISE (FARE – GIFT – Food Times) and Égalité.
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