Soft-Shell Crabs With Curry Butter

Fans of soft-shell crab look forward to the season — late spring and early summer — with feverish anticipation. The entire delicious crab is edible and may be prepared in many ways; deep-fried, grilled or pan-cooked. Here they are sautéed in a spicy curry butter, which complements the crabs’ rich flavor. (The recipe makes more butter than is needed for this dish, but is wonderful to have on hand. Use extra for cooking vegetables or eggs.) Serve 1 large or 2 small soft-shell crabs per person.

Ingredients

• ½ teaspoon cumin seeds
• ½ teaspoon coriander seeds
• ½ teaspoon fennel seeds
• 5 cloves
• ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg
• ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
• ⅛ teaspoon cayenne
• ½ teaspoon turmeric
• ½ pound unsalted butter (2 sticks), softened
• ½ teaspoon grated garlic
• 2 teaspoons grated ginger
• ½ teaspoon kosher salt
• Zest and juice of 1 lime, and lime wedges for garnish
• ¼ cup unsalted roasted almonds, crushed
• ½ cup chopped scallions
• 1 cup rice flour, for dusting (optional)
• 4 large soft-shell crabs, about 5 ounces each, cleaned
• 8 ounces tender pea shoots or baby spinach

• Nutritional Information

  • Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)

    612 calories; 52 grams fat; 29 grams saturated fat; 1 gram trans fat; 15 grams monounsaturated fat; 3 grams polyunsaturated fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams dietary fiber; 1 gram sugars; 30 grams protein; 232 milligrams cholesterol; 805 milligrams sodium

  Note: Nutrient information is not available for all ingredients. Amount is based on available data.
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4 servings

Preparation

1. Make the curry butter: Put the cumin seeds, coriander seeds, fennel seeds and cloves in a dry skillet over medium heat. When spices are lightly toasted and fragrant, after a minute or so, grind them to a powder in a mortar or electric spice mill. Add nutmeg, black pepper, cayenne and turmeric.
2. Put butter in a bowl. Add spices, garlic, ginger, salt and lime zest and juice. Mash seasonings into butter with a wooden spoon. Add crushed almonds and scallions, then mix until well incorporated. (May be prepared several hours ahead, or up to 1 day in advance.)
3. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add 3 tablespoons curry butter, let melt and swirl pan to distribute. Dust crabs lightly with rice flour, if using. When butter is foamy, add crabs in one layer and raise heat. Let crabs cook 3 minutes, then turn, using tongs, and cook 3 minutes on the other side. (Be careful, as crabs may spatter.) Remove crabs and keep warm.
4. Add 4 tablespoons curry butter to pan and let sizzle. Add pea shoots and cook briefly until wilted, 1 minute or less.
5. Arrange crabs on a warm platter or individual plates. Garnish with wilted pea shoots and lime wedges. Spoon melted curry butter from pan over crabs and serve at once.

• With this spicy, buttery soft-shell crab dish, I would suggest a really good German riesling, preferably with discernible sweetness. Spätlese level, intense yet delicate, would be just right. I may even try an aged auslese, sweeter and with more body than spätlese but thrillingly balanced. Riesling is not the only option. A good demi-sec Vouvray offers a similar combination of lively acidity and light sweetness. But if you prefer a dry riesling or Vouvray, those wines would work well, too. So would Champagne or sparkling Vouvray, or a white Burgundy or well-balanced West Coast chardonnay. Something different? A good Spanish godello has the heft to stand up to the butter and spicing, and it should go with the crab beautifully. ERIC ASIMOV

30 minutes